Simply automated US2-40 Switch shorted out

[potts.mike]

I installed this switch last night and everything seemed to be working fine. After 15 min. I hear a pop and the surge protector for the tv as well as the breaker has tripped. I pull the faceplate on the switch and there is a scotch mark on the top right of the US2-40 where the white wire leaves the body. I immediately removed the US2-40 and put the old vizia rf switch back in and everything seems to be working fine. Has anyone had one of these switches short out like this? Could there have been a power surge that by coincidence took out the surge protector and switch? I am going to try and get a refund from amazon but I don't want to keep blowing switches if there is something fundamentally wrong.

 

[Desert_AIP]

What were you controlling?

Simply Automated has an excellent service policy.

 

[potts.mike]

4 can lights. I suppose I should check the total wattage.

 

[Desert_AIP]

Check the wattage.
Each can light is usually around 75watts. That should be ok on those switches.
Are they incandescents or CFL.
If CFL, were they dimmable? Or did you turn off dimming?
Was the switch in a single gang or multi-gang wall box?
Did you wire it hot, or turn off the breaker first?

There could have been an internal problem.
I've had 3 failures out of nearly 80 switches.
They were all at install, not after a period in service. Usually comms problems.
Simply Automated replaced every one no questions asked.
The replacements work fine.

 

[potts.mike]

They look like incandescent but I will have to check. The switch was in a 3 gang box, the other two of which are zwave dimmers. It was wired with the breaker off.

I should add that the white wire got hot enough that it partially melted the wire but.

 

[ano]

Are you sure it was wired correctly?  The white wire is normally used just to power the switch.  A few years back I took one of these switches apart, and I remember a fuse on that lead within the switch.  I would very carefully check your wiring at that switch, not just your wiring, but also how the light and power is wired.  It never hurts to check, even if another switch seems to be working fine.

 

[Desert_AIP]

Make sure you didn't confuse the white and brown or white and red wire for the white wire.
The stripes on those travellers is pretty thin.
I usually cap them off with the blue nuts on a bench after unpackaging just to make sure.

The switch is derated to 500W the way you describe the install.

 

[potts.mike]

Are you sure it was wired correctly?  The white wire is normally used just to power the switch.  A few years back I took one of these switches apart, and I remember a fuse on that lead within the switch.  I would very carefully check your wiring at that switch, not just your wiring, but also how the light and power is wired.  It never hurts to check, even if another switch seems to be working fine.

 
I am sure that it was wired the same as the Leviton 4 button zwave controller that was and is working fine. that being said something drew enough current to melt the wire nut and blow the surge protector for the tv (must be on the same circuit).
 

Make sure you didn't confuse the white and brown or white and red wire for the white wire.
The stripes on those travellers is pretty thin.
I usually cap them off with the blue nuts on a bench after unpackaging just to make sure.

The switch is derated to 500W the way you describe the install.

 
Capping the striped wires is the first thing I did. It is 4 65W incandescent flood lights (260W total).

 

[Desert_AIP]

I think you are on the right track, something on that circuit may have shorted, and the switch damage is secondary.

 

[potts.mike]

I think you are on the right track, something on that circuit may have shorted, and the switch damage is secondary.

 
Agreed. Funny thing is that all the electronics work fine after removing the surge protector. Finger crossed that it was that. Amazon is shipping me a new switch so I should know by the end of the weekend if its the wiring.