smoke detector wiring

guba807

Member
I have been searching the site, and probably have made this overly complicated in my head, but I can't find a definitive answer for my smoke detector wiring. This will be a 4-wire setup using 18/4 FPL wire.

I'm thinking of using GE 350 and GE 350CX for my smokes. Will I still need the RSS-MOD?
Would it be possible to wire each floor's smokes on a different zone, and still have all smokes sound if one triggers? (that is what the RSS-mod does as best I can tell, except I have to add a rule to the ELK to make this happen)
Would I need a GE350CX for each zone if I wired it this way?

According to this link , post #2. If I have a series of smoke detectors daisy chained on one zone, whichever smoke triggers will have a red LED. Is this true for the GE detectors?

Does anyone know of a 4-wire rate-of-rise detector that I can use in the attic and furnace room?
 
I am rather new to this, but if memory serves me correctly -- I am not aware of any 4-wire heat detectors since it is just a circuit that trips when it hits the ROR or Set Temp. It wouldn't need power thus no need for a 4-wire. You wouldn't want to put a smoke detector in the attic due to the particles and dust flying around, especially the photoelectric. You would just want to use heat sensors

I am currently using System Sensor 5602 in my attic and mechanical closet. It is rated at 194 degrees with rate of rise and fixed temp. If it is going in an attic, it needs to be 194.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong. :-)
 
Disclaimer: I am not an expert in installation of life saving devices. You may wish to consult with an expert.

Whoa Nelly! You are running 4 wire fire rated cable--presumably for a low voltage system, but about to choose 120VAC powered smoke detectors (GE 350 series). Did you mean to do this? How about looking at some nice low voltage models from System Sensor, such as model 2WTA-B (not officially listed as compatible with Elk M1, but should be--check with Elk) or model 4WTA-B. Really you need to clarify if you want to run a 2 wire or 4 wire system. Assuming you won't exceed 1000 ft of wire, you might consider running a chain of 2 wire smoke sensors off of zone 16 for the entire house (we're doing an Elk M1, yes?), and then run your attic/furnace heat detectors off a separate zone(s) on the M1. You still need to install the reversing relay MOD-RSS since you are using detectors with built-in sounders and want them all to sound when triggered (reference). You can still use your 4 wire cable if you've already run it. Just use 2 of the leads or double up in pairs. Be sure to terminate the chain correctly with the proper sized resistor.

Finally, be aware that many AHJ require 120VAC powered smokes independent from an alarm panel, so check with your AHJ before you commit.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the clarification, it had been hard to do research because of my work schedule this last week.

I mentioned the 350 because it keeps coming up in the search, but really I'm trying to get a feel for what I'm getting into before I start running wire.

This is a retrofit application so for the main house, no inspector will be overseeing. The basement will be finished over the next year or so, but I can easily run 120v detectors if I am required to down there.

I am running 4 wire for future proof because who knows what type of detectors will come along and may end up needing 4-wire in the future.

My main concern is they all sound if one triggers (easy enough with the elk)
and that I can easily determine which one triggers in case of false alarms (unsure how easy this is to setup)
I would also like them to be separated by zones for basement, 1st, and 2nd floors. I will probably have 14 detectors in all throughout the entire house. From what I've seen, the elk max's out at about 10 before a separate power source is needed.

I am already planning heat detectors in the attic/furnace room.

thanks for the replies
 
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