Suggestion for Zones

Power output is only one factor, and they are governed by dB output. You will never see a piezo provide anything past 130 dB. Most are 90 - 110 dB and like smoke detectors its the operating frequencies which get peoples attention.

Case in point smoke detectors.

Do you think they are 130 dB??

Not . . .

Teken . . .
I'm sorry, but when did I state that smoke detectors were 130dB :unsure:
 
I'm sorry, but when did I state that smoke detectors were 130dB :unsure:

Your comment was stating that I have never heard a piezo siren. Your comment is alluding to the fact that you believe its because the piezo is louder, its not louder.

Its the simple fact it generates higher frequencies which people equate to being comparable to a loud siren. When in fact power output is only one variable which affects a persons *perceived* sound level.

My end reply was relating this to a smoke detector. They are by no means loud, in the sense of power output. They however are perceived to be *louder* when in fact it is the frequency they emit carries further and penetrates the human ear canal.

Teken . . .
 
Yes, I do understand that. However, when a typical fire alarm is rated at 85dB and a piezo is 110-115dB well then it does, in fact, have a 30dB higher rating in that same frequency range.

We can leave it at that. The OP stated he may decide to add some screamers at a later time, which is what I did as well. I take it he understands the use of them and will make that decision.
 
I can literally count on one hand all the DIY users I know that test their systems on a monthly basis. These are the very same people who say they test their smoke alarms and also change out their batteries. :huh:

I have my system set to do a "chirp" when I use the keyfob to exit the house. It effectively is a daily test of a working siren. And "the lady" has plenty of opportunity to speak effectively testing the interior speaker. So these are easy ways for an Elk owner to confirm operation of those features.
 
I have my system set to do a "chirp" when I use the keyfob to exit the house. It effectively is a daily test of a working siren. And "the lady" has plenty of opportunity to speak effectively testing the interior speaker. So these are easy ways for an Elk owner to confirm operation of those features.

Neighbors must love you.
 
Neighbors must love you.

I live on 7 acres. Even at that, the chirp is about the same as the "toot" your car horn makes when you lock it. If your worried about waking your neighbors you can set the rule to only do it between certain hours. I like it as confirmation that the keyfob did it's thing. It doesn't do it when I set the alarm from the keypad.


Oh, and the other thing. I have it set to chirp repeatedely several times if the alarm had been set off while away when the garage door is opened. In this fashion when someone comes home they get a notification prior to entering that the alarm had triggered. . . just in case the police/CS weren't able to get in touch with you. While it would be very unlikely that an intruder was still in your house, it is reasonable to do and its free.
 
I have my system set to do a "chirp" when I use the keyfob to exit the house. It effectively is a daily test of a working siren. And "the lady" has plenty of opportunity to speak effectively testing the interior speaker. So these are easy ways for an Elk owner to confirm operation of those features.

I'm sorry if I was not clear the first go round. Monthly testing consists of performing a walk test to ensure all sensors are fully operational and active in all weather conditions.

Monthly *Live* tests are performed on the systems back up battery to ensure run time and ampacity is present. Relying on the on board battery load test is not validation of a system.

Performing a walk test in both extreme climate conditions ensures the client is fully aware of the attack time / rate the sensor is vulnerable. This is why fail over sensors and a mesh network is deployed to ensure *choke points* are captured to ensure 100% detection rates.

When people simply test in idea conditions they have no clue how the system will perform or operate.

I have yet to lay eyes on one single owner who has ever gotten on their hands and knee's and performed a walk test. I can also count on one hand the amount of people I know who have ever performed an attack rate test.

Lastly, incorporating a combination of dual tech sensors, along with creeping sensors will ensure the highest coverage possible while reducing false alarms. Double hit zones should be heavily audited to ensure the correct amount of time is allocated to ensure the window of opportunity is limited for an intruder.

Teken . . .
 
Sounds like someone's done the UL certification drill with an auditor as well....maybe a little federal sided work.

Also enjoy the sagging battery test when all of the above is tested.
 
Wire up the 4 wire smokes, install power supervision relays. Wire all to either the same reversing relay or switched power source (or both). Have the panel perform a fire reset. You'll see the issues and problems.

Sure, there may be workarounds, but who wants to have 5-10 separate methods to silence and reset a fire alarm. Making the system harder to use isn't a benefit.

I was looking to have three zones for the smokes. I have a separate garage and a basement we are looking to rent out as separate unit. What are the problems of having separate zones? I bought 5 4-wire SS 4WT-B to set up. (I would like smokes in garage because of the faster reaction time and the potential loss of valuable tools and cars. I have worked around smokes in garages before, welding and what not, and only once set them off.)
 
Back
Top