Switchlinc 3-way setup won't turn off

[jeffx]

ToggleLinc Model 23890I - R2.0 - 0514
ToggleLinc Multi-Way Companion Model 23892W - V1.0 - 0140
Lighting - 120 watts total (two 60 watt recessed lights)

Previous switches standard dimmer and slave, then x-10 brand dimmer and slave both worked without issue.

ToggleLinc and slave will turn on, but will not turn off. When attemtpting to turn off at the switch or by an x-10 command, the light will dim down to about 50% then go back to 100% and will not turn off. Multiple double-taps off (down) will eventually turn the light off.

Please help! This is the final switch I am installing in my house with 4 Insteon dimmers, 3 togglelincs, 5 keypadlincs and 3 PCS switches already installed and working (2 other 3-way setups).

I can't find any wire configuration that seems to work (where the standard and x-10 switches worked fine). What would cause the above behavior--dimming to 50% but not turning off? I just received the switch less than 1 week ago.

I idea I have it that it may be due to the fact the neutral and line (hot) may be on different circuits at the master switch, but have set up others like this with no issues.

 

[SmarthomeJohn]

ToggleLinc and slave will turn on, but will not turn off. When attemtpting to turn off at the switch or by an x-10 command, the light will dim down to about 50% then go back to 100% and will not turn off. Multiple double-taps off (down) will eventually turn the light off.

First of all, I have not done a tech support call or email in the last four years, but I think I know what's happening.

The problem most likely is 3-way related. The yellow traveler wire on the master is getting a voltage on that wire that tells the master to turn on.
1. Try disconnecting the yellow wire at the master and try turning off the switch at the master and by X10. It will probably work. At least you know the master switch is good.

2. Make sure the companion switch is installed at the box WHERE THE POWER COMES INTO THE CIRCUIT. Many times, installers will install the master switch in this slot. You should disconnect all the wires, turn on the circuit (make sure no one is around ), then find the hot wire. Your companion should be installed there.

3. A third and harder to fix problem to fix happens when there is a long electrical run (over 85 ft.) and the load is high wattage (you said 120W, which isn't a lot). Sometimes, the current traveling over the cables between the companion and master will induce voltage onto the red traveler wire. This can make it difficult for the master to tell what's happening on that line. There are lots of resources on the net about this. The test is to reduce the load and check if the switches begin working. Hopefully, this isn't the problem because it is hard to fix :blink:

SJ

 

[jeffx]

Unfortunately, I believe the the problem is exactly as you describe--there is a very slight amount of voltage on the traveler wire--although the run couldn't be more than 30 feet. Disconnecting the slave fixed the problem.

Anyway, I got tired of fiddling with it last night, capped off the traveler wire at both ends, removed the slave switch and just programmed a button on a near by keypadlinc to act as the "slave". If I had gotten the slave swich to work correctly, I would have had to install a new j-box to fit the togglelinc companion, so I saved myself a lot of additional work by just eliminating the 3-way slave.

Thanks for the help!

 

[AutomatedOutlet]

I've done that same thing a lot of times - remove the slave and add a keypad! :blink: