UPB Reliability

BryanE

Active Member
What’s the general consensus on UPB reliability? When I say reliability, I’m more interested in build quality/lifespan and not so much the communications. Would you put them up there with Lutron?

I just started testing some gen 2 PCS products and like the look and feel. Much better than the original gen 1 gear IMHO. What's everyone using? Pros/cons?
 
Right now I've got about 10 wall switches and seven lamp modules. Everything has been hunky dory except for one relay switch that I'm probably going to have to send back. It controls a bathroom heater, and after about 20 minutes on, it starts to crash and reboot itself every minute or so.

My stuff is a mix of HAI and Web Mountain devices.
 
I have PCS, SAI and HAI devices and I have to say I like the quality of the PCS stuff the best, especially the inline relay modules. They are more expensive but I do like the quality and programmability of them the best.
 
I'm fairly new to UPB - almost all SAI; with some HAL lamp modules and PCS appliance modules. Using SAI240's, 1140's and USR's.

Only been at it for a few weeks, but haven't seen a failed transmit/receive yet; and all my directly-controlled loads report back their status to the elk reliably as well - very happy with that.
 
I have had UPB installed since August 08. Zero hardware failures so far with a mix of mostly SAI and some PCS, HAI, HAL, Webmountain.

I dont like the feel of the HAI switches compared to the SAI. Other than that I cant say I have anything negative to say and its really an opinion not anything wrong with the devices.

Any manufacturer of any lighting system will have a few devices fail over time (should not be anything significant if they have their acts together). If there were any real issues with UPB probably someone will jump in.

You may want to buy a lamp or appliance module and a PIM module and do some tests for signal strength and noise throughout your house before buying and installing a complete system. Even if everything is fine (most likely the case) its worth the effort if it wasnt you saved yourself a lot of aggravation.
 
I also have a mix of devices, although most are HAI. I've not had any trouble with any of them. I've had the system installed for a little over 3 years now. I have to say it's been pure pleasure and have long ago stopped trying to troubleshoot my lighting and have time to move to other HA projects. In short they just work.

On caveat goes out to SA's double load control switch. It's allowed me to use it in my double gang boxes and still have room for a 8 button keypad to control other things. without a lot of mess or rewiring.
 
What’s the general consensus on UPB reliability? When I say reliability, I’m more interested in build quality/lifespan and not so much the communications. Would you put them up there with Lutron?

I just started testing some gen 2 PCS products and like the look and feel. Much better than the original gen 1 gear IMHO. What's everyone using? Pros/cons?

I've had about 60 Simply Automated switches running several years now. No major failure but I have three switches where you have to click the ON side a little harder than normal. They are all in heavily used locations. I'm guessing that the actual switch is wearing out. Just an annoyance at this time, but will likely eventually have to replace them.
 
I've had about 60 Simply Automated switches running several years now. No major failure but I have three switches where you have to click the ON side a little harder than normal. They are all in heavily used locations. I'm guessing that the actual switch is wearing out. Just an annoyance at this time, but will likely eventually have to replace them.
Ano - when I first bought some of my switches, I installed the faceplates and noticed that some faceplates worked better on some switches than on others. Meaning while the faceplate on switch one would be hard to press or would stick - if I swapped the faceplate with another switch, they both operated more smoothly.

Not sure if that'll be the case for you - but popping off a faceplate and swapping two would only take a few seconds - seems like a worthwhile test.
 
I've had about 60 Simply Automated switches running several years now. No major failure but I have three switches where you have to click the ON side a little harder than normal. They are all in heavily used locations. I'm guessing that the actual switch is wearing out. Just an annoyance at this time, but will likely eventually have to replace them.
Ano - when I first bought some of my switches, I installed the faceplates and noticed that some faceplates worked better on some switches than on others. Meaning while the faceplate on switch one would be hard to press or would stick - if I swapped the faceplate with another switch, they both operated more smoothly.

Not sure if that'll be the case for you - but popping off a faceplate and swapping two would only take a few seconds - seems like a worthwhile test.

Thanks, I will try that, and that will be much easier to fix than replacing switches. The only reason it may not be so much a factor is because they worked fine initially and this has occured over years, and only on the high-use switches. I just hope what is wearing out is the more easily replaced faceplate and not the contacts on the switch, but I won't know until I try it. Maybe over Christmas time. I'll report back when I know more.
 
The SA faceplates were redesigned as well. The first generation of plates had pins that were just a bit short, and the early switches were hand assembled and not always consistent. In some switches the PCB would be slightly tilted, or just a little further away, which would prevent the pins from making contact unless you pushed extra hard. That's why some combinations of plate and body wok better than others.

Also, if the electrical box is a tight fit, the SA switches are susceptible to twisting if they get torqued unevenly or have wires behind them. That can cause contact issues between the faceplate pin and the actual switch.
 
The SA faceplates were redesigned as well. The first generation of plates had pins that were just a bit short, and the early switches were hand assembled and not always consistent. In some switches the PCB would be slightly tilted, or just a little further away, which would prevent the pins from making contact unless you pushed extra hard. That's why some combinations of plate and body wok better than others.

Also, if the electrical box is a tight fit, the SA switches are susceptible to twisting if they get torqued unevenly or have wires behind them. That can cause contact issues between the faceplate pin and the actual switch.

Didn't know that (hand made). Makes sense, as the only switches I've had any issues with were older ones (now replaced).

I've moved most of the older ones to places where I use them by remote control only.

--Dan
 
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