upb : replacing three way switches.

kelargo

Member
I have established installing some UPB switches in my house.  I am now attempting to replace a legacy 3way with some Simply Automated USR-40A and US1-40.  
 
The wiring diagrams I see for these switches does not conform to how I am seeing things wired up that I am trying to replace. 
 
in one gang box is a lutron ctcl-153p  this box has line power in and a connection to the remote wall switch. (black/red/tagged white)   the remote wall gang box has a three way toggle switch . red and black on one side, tagged white going into it. 
 
I am looking at the Simply Automated user guides and it looks like Line and Neutral are in both gang boxes for USR-40A and US1-40?
 
This circuit has just this light on it.  no other lights or loads.  maybe the user guide implies the switches can be in series for other loads? or is it to two different circuit breakers? 
 
http://www.simply-automated.com/documents/452-0051-0201_RevE_US1-40_UserGuide_120412.pdf
 
appreciate any help in replacing these switches. 
 
 
 

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this is the part that is messing me up.  have to figure out how to work around it safely. 
 
OPTIONAL: In some multi-way circuits there may not be an ‘always hot’ wire available in both junction boxes, requiring use of one of the wires in the traveler Romex to provide a hot connection to the other junction box, or possibly the hot wire of an adjacent switch in the same junction box as the remote USR. All hot power wires used MUST be powered from the same circuit breaker
 
FYI.  I got it working.  Luckily, there was a 12-2 cable in the gang box, for something not yet connected.  I used it to get the power to the other gang box so both UPB switches have power. 
 
Three way switches have a line, a neutral, a carrier and a ground wire that travels between them. The line and neutral wires could be used to supply current to the remote switch.
 
Mike.
 
You can always use one switch as a load controller, and another as a link transmitter and avoid the 3 way switch and setup alltogether.
 
The ne 3-way switch was just that, 3-way switch and nothing else in the gang box.  I had to fish an unused 12-2 from the one box over to the other box, then wiring it up was cookie cutter as in the diagrams.  I was confused with to initially do, since there was no hot wire in the one gang  box. thanks
 
Desert_AIP said:
You can always use one switch as a load controller, and another as a link transmitter and avoid the 3 way switch and setup alltogether.
+1 Much more flexible.  I was never a fan of those "remote" switches which feel cheap, and don't work that great.
 
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