UPB Switches for non-dimmable fluorescent cans

[knut]

I am speccing a UPB installation. Part of this installation has to control a number of light runs that use non-dimmable fluorescent cans (Title 24 Recessed Lighting HB5PLIC-26-E-AT-AD from usalight.com), up to six of them on a switch.

These cans have transformers in the housing, and they warn not to use dimmers.

Am I safe if I use a "regular" UPB dimming switch (SA AUS1140W / HAI 35A00-1 / PCS WS1D-6-W) with these cans, disabling the UPB dimming feature, or would the transformer noise fry such a switch ?

Do I have to use a relay switch (HAI 40A00-1) instead, which would be more robust ?

I have not found an answer in the product specs or in the system design manual. Any input from practical experience would be much appreciated !

Thank you,
Knut

 

[nightwalker]

I've always found the relay units worked better for these. It doesn't take much to ,over time, to damage the transformers of fluorescent units. While you can sometimes get away with setting a dimmer to snap on for small loads like a bath exhaust fan, the load of the lighting you're installing in my opinion would require the more robust features of the relay switch.

 

[drozwood90]

I use regular switches, and "SNAP" them on. BUT, you are hooking quite a few bulbs to the switch. I typically have ONE 100W equivalent bulb at most.

If that really is an issue (the amount) then, you'll just have to make sure that the switch can "SNAP" on and output the "surge" current. So, if you have a "good" meter (scope preferred). Hook up ONE lamp, and measure the surge current. Multiply by the total amount of lamps. IF that is less then the ability of the single switch to "SNAP" on to, then you are AOK. The REAL relay switches will allow this surge to pass unabated, which is their advantage.

--Dan

 

[LightenUP]

Have you determined that they are causing noise to radiate? I would most likely use anything that is Gen II. You may find no issues with noise but just in case, make sure it is Gen II so if the ballasts are in their final stage in life they don't begin radiating enough interferance that they would pose a problem.

As far as a relay vesus a dimmer in snap, I would most likely spec the HAI relay unless you needed a multi button at that location.

I wouldn't think the switch would cause a premature failure of a ballast if it were set to snap but anything is possible.

I have tested SA dimmers with dimmable CFLs, they still flicker at certain levels and loose some CRI at lower intensities.

 

[ano]

i use regular switches in non-dimming mode and have never had a problem. I have one switch for about 7 cans. Used them with CFL and with LED lights, and they work great. (They are Simply Automated switched, by the way.)

 

[knut]

Ano, you appear to be referencing incandescent cans with CFL bulbs (?).

I think an industrial transformer in a housing may have different characteristics then a transformer in a bulb. I'll try to get my hands on a scope this weekend to check for noise. I have a sample can here.

Knut

i use regular switches in non-dimming mode and have never had a problem. I have one switch for about 7 cans. Used them with CFL and with LED lights, and they work great. (They are Simply Automated switched, by the way.)

 

[ano]

Ano, you appear to be referencing incandescent cans with CFL bulbs (?).

I think an industrial transformer in a housing may have different characteristics then a transformer in a bulb. I'll try to get my hands on a scope this weekend to check for noise. I have a sample can here.

Knut

i use regular switches in non-dimming mode and have never had a problem. I have one switch for about 7 cans. Used them with CFL and with LED lights, and they work great. (They are Simply Automated switched, by the way.)

I have those as well. No problem. Just on those, use the VA rating, not the wattage to determine the max load. Both the lamps and the switch should have a VA rating. (Voltage X Amperage) The VA rating for a fixture is higher than its wattage because the power factor isn't unity. If all else fails, and you only have wattage, don't exceed half the rating to be safe. In other words, don't put more than 300 watts of fixtures on a switch rated for 600 watts.