Water sensors - 2 or 4 wire...

shenandoah75

Active Member
continuing from this thread:

http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showtopic=4736

GRI make both 4 wire (GRI 2600) and 2 wire (GRI 2800). I can grab the latter for $3.50 each from safemart... The others seem to be around double that most places (or higher)...

Is one approach better than the other - if we can use voltage from the zone itself off the elk and the device is cheaper, is there a reason I wouldn't want to?

BSR, back when you vistited the GRI display, did they go into differences?


thx
-brad

p.s. i plan on putting one per zone... (maybe 10 or so total)
 
continuing from this thread:

http://www.cocoontech.com/index.php?showtopic=4736

GRI make both 4 wire (GRI 2600) and 2 wire (GRI 2800). I can grab the latter for $3.50 each from safemart... The others seem to be around double that most places (or higher)...

Is one approach better than the other - if we can use voltage from the zone itself off the elk and the device is cheaper, is there a reason I wouldn't want to?

BSR, back when you vistited the GRI display, did they go into differences?


thx
-brad

p.s. i plan on putting one per zone... (maybe 10 or so total)

I use the 2 wires with the M1 and they work great. The new ones I bought from AO are 4 wires but I havent tied them in yet.
 
I use the 2800 on the M1 also and they have worked fine. I don't use EOLRs when I use these to make sure there is enough power. They may work with an EOLR but I haven't tried it.
 
I use the 2800 on the M1 also and they have worked fine. I don't use EOLRs when I use these to make sure there is enough power. They may work with an EOLR but I haven't tried it.

I use EOLR's with mine. No problems. I have had a few times where the sensors have detected a leak and saved me from a lot of damage. I am adding more when time permits.

I think a home is more likely to suffer water damage than a fire but people are not as aware of the potentials of water damage.
 
Have either of you checked the amperage draw (menu 8) on the elk when te sensors are in alarm mode?

GRI's website states 400-500mA max during alarm if i'm reading "switching current" or "alarm current" correctly. Don't understand why a water sensor would pull 10 times the standby current when smokes/PIRs do not. .5 would like put me over the elks capacity.

thx
-brad
 
Have either of you checked the amperage draw (menu 8) on the elk when te sensors are in alarm mode?

GRI's website states 400-500mA max during alarm if i'm reading "switching current" or "alarm current" correctly. Don't understand why a water sensor would pull 10 times the standby current when smokes/PIRs do not. .5 would like put me over the elks capacity.

thx
-brad

A 2 wire device would pull the max curent available on the zone since it is basically shorting the zone. I forget the current available on the zone but it is probablu more like 100 ma or so. The 4 wire gets teh power form the aux bus. so that is a different story.

Spanky can you advise the max zone current?
 
Have either of you checked the amperage draw (menu 8) on the elk when te sensors are in alarm mode?

GRI's website states 400-500mA max during alarm if i'm reading "switching current" or "alarm current" correctly. Don't understand why a water sensor would pull 10 times the standby current when smokes/PIRs do not. .5 would like put me over the elks capacity.

thx
-brad

No, I haven't checked the current when in alarm but I have tested it with water and let the panel go into alarm with no reports of over current. However, I'm not using that much juice so that may be why.
 
Hi Guys

The 500mA Brad mentions i would suggest is the maximum switching current the water sensor relay can switch...The zone input on the elk i would imagine would only draw a few milli amps....

HTH
Frank
 
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