What's best way to automate closet light with Elk?

[The Pod]

I'd like to automate the closet lights in the house so that when someone opens the closet, the light will go on for only 10 min. or off when door is closed. Simple enough to hook up a magnetic sensor on the door to an Elk input zone. But the question comes up of which is a better way to control turning the light on and off? What types of pros/cons do I have between these two setups:

a) Wire the 110 power for the closet light to an Elk relay board and connect it to an Elk output.
Install an Elk Serial Expander with controller (Z-Wave,UPB, etc.) and connect a module at the closet light.

Also open to suggestions of other ways to control it with the Elk.

The Pod

 

[IVB]

I use the mag sensor hooked up to the Elk, triggering a zWave light switch. Works 100%, no muss no fuss, no mucking with HV wiring. If you're only doing a few, I dunno about ROI. For me, I was doing every light in the house, so it actually helped beef up the mesh.

 

[Spanky]

In my house I put the relay at the light switch so that I did not have to run 120 VAC to a relay board. I tied a 3/8" press fit door switch into an input zone on the M1 and wrote a Rule to turn on the light for 5 minutes when the door opened. Another Rule turned off the light if the door was closed which overrode the timer. It works great, with instant on lights and no delay.

If I valued my weekend time, the PLC wall switch solution would be a good method with a wireless door switch transmitter.

 

[The Pod]

In my house I put the relay at the light switch so that I did not have to run 120 VAC to a relay board. I tied a 3/8" press fit door switch into an input zone on the M1 and wrote a Rule to turn on the light for 5 minutes when the door opened. Another Rule turned off the light if the door was closed which overrode the timer. It works great, with instant on lights and no delay.

If I valued my weekend time, the PLC wall switch solution would be a good method with a wireless door switch transmitter.

Spanky, putting a relay at the light fixture in the closet was what I was wanting to do and just running 22 gauge wire from the relay back to the Elk. Which relay would be the better choice to use (Elk-912 or Elk-924)?

The Pod

 

[electron]

I use a wireless DS10A sensor and a UPB light switch to do this. This really works well, and is one of the best examples of how automation can be useful.

 

[Sacedog]

The problem that I see with these solutions, is that the closet door would have to be *closed* when the person is done using the closet. I don't know about you, but my wife never closes her closet door.

It's a bit too expensive to do with a motion sensor in every closet.

If you had automated lighting, could you write some sort of rule for just that switch that said, when the switch is pressed, turn on light for x minutes? The downside of that, is that the light will not come on automatically, but it would turn off automatically.

 

[IVB]

My closet light turns off after 15mins, regardless of whether it's been turned on by door opening or by manual switchpress.

 

[Steve]

Just tying into another thread, HA itself is pretty hardcore for alot of people (especially resale), but relays in jboxes?, damn! Granted, a light switch is just a relay, but a regular automated light switch is imho the best route to go - it is more standard and you don't have issues of mixing HV and LV in the jbox. And one would assume if you were into automation at all, lighting would be one of the first things on your list and would have a 'favorite' anyway. I use contacts and UPB.

 

[The Pod]

Just tying into another thread, HA itself is pretty hardcore for alot of people (especially resale), but relays in jboxes?, damn! Granted, a light switch is just a relay, but a regular automated light switch is imho the best route to go - it is more standard and you don't have issues of mixing HV and LV in the jbox. And one would assume if you were into automation at all, lighting would be one of the first things on your list and would have a 'favorite' anyway. I use contacts and UPB.

Lets keep in mind this is a closet (not walk in) ceramic light fixture on the ceiling with a pull chain I'm trying to automate. There is NO WALL SWITCH that can be simply replaced and I haven't seen any automated screw in lamp modules for UPB. Yes Z-Wave, Insteon and X-10 have them but then the bulb extends down another 3-4 inches and I worry about someone breaking the bulb trying to put something up on the top shelf. Then again I have to question do I put a $10 relay or a $50+ switch in a 3'x4' closet? What benifits will I really gain putting in an HA module over a relay other than possible failures due to HA protocol signal loss?

The Pod

 

[CollinR]

How about a $2 plunger and $2 worth or romex?


I have never understood the desire to automate closet lights, so I don't.

 

[rfdesq]

How about a $2 plunger and $2 worth or romex?

How about a 13 watt fluorescent bulb and don't worry if it's left on?

 

[Ranger Digital]

collins, makes sense, but I for one want EVERY light automated, LOL

during the rough in i wire every light. alc on-q. got motion sensors for three or four bucks each on ebay. it works great. course the switches are pricing, but thats life. you can add as you find deals if its prewired. course this is not the threads scenario. but why not automate closet lights? its sweet.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I would worry more about routing AC into my Elk or home automation control box than routing low voltage to a box that contains AC. I mean, I see what one means by using an automated switch, but (my opinion) is there is nothing wrong with using low voltage to switch high voltage. Standard Process Control industry practice uses 24 volt DC low voltage lines to switch 480 volt AC systems on major industrial components all the time. Usually multiple low voltage lines are run to relays and contactors to accomplish this task in a control 'Hoffman' box.

It's perfectly safe if done properly (i.e. proper components and wiring termination practices are used). :angry: Of course I'm not sure how code issues would handle this, just stating that it can be done safely.

 

[upstatemike]

How about a $2 plunger and $2 worth or romex?


I have never understood the desire to automate closet lights, so I don't.

Because a rarely used closet that got closed with the light left on can be an annoying addition to your electric bill. I don't actually automate the light but once every 15 minutes during the day Stargate reminds me what lights are on (announcement includes closets, basement, 3rd floor, attic, and bathrooms). Helps avoid lights burning for no reason.

 

[Spanky]

The electrical inspector would not pass a low voltage and high voltage combination in the same J box without dividers. Neither would they pass running high voltage into a HA box to a relay expander board.