Wire termination question

dbb

Member
I did my research with structured wiring and some future proofing during the pre-wiring stage, but now I don't know the best plates to put in place.  Specifically, I ran 4 cat6, 2 coax, and 1 cat5.  The cat5 is meant for IR/control, 2 of the cat6 are meant for video with a balun.  Any recommendations on plates?  One of these will be used in conjunction with a wall mounted TV, another goes into a cabinet for a local rack.  Thanks!
 
+1, keystone plates are the easiest overall
 
I would choose TV boxes with 2 or more gangs for low voltage, plus a third gang for line voltage outlets.  Having the extra gang space for keystones or perhaps a pass-through scoop plate may be very useful, particularly because I've read that some of the larger cat6 keystone connectors can't fit side by side, at least in a Decora design.  If you can avoid Decora keystone plates, you may not have an issue.
 
Hopefully you won't need the third gang (cover it with a blank plate), but it may be nice to have in the future.  A pass-through plate in the third gang could be useful for any shorter HDMI runs, where you may not use an extender.
 
I would suggest only terminating the cables when you need them, e.g. leave the extra category cables unterminated.
 
Largest question is what size ring did you use, because that much cabling in a single closed box is going to have bend radius issues.

I'd go keystone personally, either 1 or 2 gang, but your ring is going to determine that. I'd forgo a larger plate (3g) and worry about cutting the opening bigger and covering that if absolutely necessary.
 
Is that what you ran total, or to a single location?
 
If that's the wiring closet end, but the rest are in different locations, I'd ask what it looks like where you're mounting it - because if it's inside a structured wiring panel vs. on a plywood board in the basement vs. just about anything else, that can change things.
 
I went with the combo keystone (6-very tight) and electric insert wall mounts for the kitchen LCD TV.  It is flush mounted and you do not see any cabling.  Recently mounted a newer LCD; 36" in a bedroom.  It too was a dual gang.  I purchased it at the local hardware big box store.  It did not come with keystone jacks; rather a cable passthru.  I was able to remove the cable passthru and utilize a keystone insert.  The most difficult pieces though was passing the electric. 
 
In one of the kitchen LCDs I ran cat5e, HDMI and rg6 (2-2-2).  I used "thin" rg6 very short cables and  "thick" HDMI cable.  The Keystone jack plates are removable and you can start with 2, 3, 4 or 6.  I would though recommend purchasing the ones with the removable covers.  I've seen some sold with the keystone jacks built in.  I ran regular flush mounted single gang box with keystone jacks for the "under the counter" LCD. 
 
A large recessed box behind the TV also allows for placement of wall warts and even the cable/satellite set-top box.
 
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http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/PAC511
 
wow, thanks for all the responses.  makes me realize some of my mistakes!  Or at least the lack of guidance I gave the electrician. 
In response to questions about my setup:
Structured media center in the basement with a 4/2/1 (cat6/coax/cat5) run into the family room built-in.  That's where I need the jack, so it sounds like a 2 gang 6 keystone is probably preferred.  From there I have a couple HDMI to the TV.  Its open right now so I haven't fully decided what to run.  In the built in will be the cable box, DVR, receiver, Sonos.  So while the recessed box is pretty cool, and may be useful elsewhere in the house, it won't work here.  Thanks though.
 
I still have a question about the 2 cat6 that are meant to feed a balun.  Do I terminate the cat6 into a keystone and then balun between there and the TV?  Or do I feed the balun into the keystone, and run HDMI to TV?
 
I also just started scouring for ventiation recommendations but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  Anyone know if I put a vent on the bottom shelf for intake and fan out the side for exhaust... would that work okay?
 
Thanks!
 
Here I redid my family room.  While doing this I redid the electric.  The LCD in this room is on a short shelf with glass doors and not mounted to the wall. Here though just the LV wiring is in recessed boxes.  I added one standard double gang electric box behind the TV / MM cabinet such that there was two of the them.  In the old house MM room I also added LV cabling for whatever "game" devices / boxes existed then (80's).
 
I also moved the subwoofer so it would be adjacent to the sitting viewing area.  There I ran new power and the LV wires from a gang box/gang plate there.  
 
I redid the speaker (in ceiling and in wall) wiring such that it also ended up in an in wall gang box.  The speaker "stuff" is separated in its own gang boxes and inserts.  When I did the network stuff I just ran 6 network cables to 6 keystone jacks (they go to a patch panel).  Personally I would consider mounting any device cat5/6 to HDMI today externally because most of them utilize LV power. 
 
I also have another keystone plate / gang box set up just for RG6.  That said it carries in house video stuff, cable, OTA, Dish and Direct TV RG6 cables.  
 
I am not currently distributing HDMI (just testing it) using all 6 jacks for network stuff in the MM shelves.  The setup is also connected to the zoned Russound amps on the rack in the basement.  There also is coaxial digital and dual shielded microphone cabling for low level audio stuff there.
Aside the Russound stuff their is a lot of audio and video streaming stuff with locally connected devices. 
 
The family room LV stuff is unique and changing so I wired and terminated for this. 
 
It also sits above the "comm closet" such that it was easy to wire.  I did separate out the electric from a single circuit to three in the room with one dedicated to the multimedia stuff.  I used the larger Arlington gang box inserts for this room and did keep them to LV stuff only. 
 
All of the above LV stuff for the family room / MM room was low on the WAF as the room had been gutted with a new fireplace (side of room) (cement work), painting, redoing the windows trim et al.  The focus in the room is the "fireplace" area and the MM area which are distinct to each other. 
 
I did most of it except for the cement work on the fire place and I wanted to finish all of the LV infrastructure stuff before finishing the walls.  (IE wife wanted to utilize the room right away and I left it unfinished for about a month doing a little of the LV stuff and redoing the electric at my own pace). 
 
I understand better now, but not completely.  Yes, 2 (or 3) gang in the built-in cabinet.  1-2 keystone plates, and 1 pass-through/scoop plate.  Pass-through plate for HDMI to the TV, and possibly your 'balun' category cables.
 
Why 2 HDMI cables to the TV?
 
What is the 'balun' for?  If you're using an HDMI extender of some sort (HDBaseT extender may be better), you would want to avoid the extra connections of keystones, and use the pass-through plate.  Extra connections may degrade the signal.
 
Behind the TV you'd use a scoop plate, for the HDMI cable(s).  And, don't forget TV power.  Combined power outlet and LV TV box is a good solution.  3 Gang TV box would give you a keystone plate, pass-though plate, and TV power.
 
Don't forget LAN connection to the TV, for internet (firmware, internet sources, IP control).  I suggest you use a small 8 port gigabit ethernet switch in the built-in cabinet to supply the TV, cable/sat box, AVR, BDP, and any other devices that could use an internet connection.  Extra category cable would give you an Audio Return Channel from the TV to the AVR; not sure how that's helpful, but I've read of others doing it.  And, another category cable for IR to the TV, from the built-in cabinet.  I would add 2-4 more category cables, run from the built-in to the TV, for possibly replacing your 1-2 HDMI cables in the future.  Really, can't have too many category cables, and if DIY, and you're buying the box of cable, there is no added cost.  I'd just use cat6 for everything.  Just leave the unused category cables unterminated behind the plates.
 
I don't understand what you mean by 'structured media center'.  Is this a low voltage enclosure, e.g. the Leviton SMC?  If yes, then no, you wouldn't use any wall plate for that.  The enclosure is basically a giant wall plate.  Cables run into the side of the enclosure, and are connected to your equipment in the enclosure (modem, router, switch).  A LV enclosure usually has a power outlet inside of it.
 
This video from Leviton shows how to install a LV enclosure (the Leviton Structured Media Center).  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jti8_10aLk4
 
You may want to consider some wireless access points, depending on the size of your house.
 
I went back and re-read, so just ignore the SMC suggestions. ;)  I understand now you're just working on the FR.
 
After the electrician has done the basics, you could possibly add more cables yourself, copying how he did it.  It's not rocket science, especially if you're not terminating the extra, future-proofing, category cables.
 
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