MyQ Garage Door 'monitor' - Hackable?

If you have the internet gateway then you might be able to use this SmartThings hub driver as a code reference.  I don't have a SmartThings hub but this code base should give me the clues I need to build a driver for CQC.  My chamberlain (same MFG as Liftmaster) kit from Costco came with a pocket keyfob opener, In the short term I'll likely crack it open and hook up to a UPB I/O module I already have in place. The old garage door opener was fried 2 weeks ago by lightning, miraculously the UPB I/O module did not get damage (it was hooked up to the old opener).  Any I/O module that can simulate a button press should work.
 
-Ben
 
Just to update: Those suggesting the old Brave Sir Robin trick of hacking a wireless remote were spot on. I took an 893LM and popped the back off. A few seconds with a jumper wire showed that almost any combination of connections across the four solder points of each button would activate the corresponding door. I opted to solder to the two posts at the far outer edges of each outside button (middle button not used), on the sides of the board, using 24 gauge solid wire because, frankly, that's what I had handy in four conductor (two doors). It's not going to be moved around, as I just mounted it to the outside of the can with 3M double sided tape, inserted 6-8" of the other end of the wires into the Elk and connected to an Output expander. A 2 second pulse works lime a charm.

Thanks for the ideas and input!
 
Work2Play said:
There are lots of ways to use the M1 to open/close the door... right now that's my main method of entry/exit since I've been too lazy to program the new truck... I just pull out my phone.
 
Some options:
  1. Output of the M1 straight to either the existing wall switch or the opener itself (smart panels have issue with this but you don't seem to have a smart panel... short story is the door will open/close as expected but the smart panel will "reboot" and lose any date/time settings)...
  2. Hack a remote and solder some wires that go to an output
  3. Use any other protocols like UPB I/O or Zwave I/O module hooked to either the button contacts or a hacked remote
 
I have a fourth low-tech solution
 
4. Buy a couple of Liftmaster remotes and hang them on the wall wherever you want a button.
 
I have done this in combination with your second option of rewiring a remote and hooking it to an elk output and the two together cover all of my needs.
 
Mike.
 
Her aside from the Liftmaster GDO connections to my OmniPro 2 panel I have gone a bit analog with a CCTV view of the garage door from the inside and another from the outside.  The only external dependancy relates to having an internet connection.
 
It has worked fine like this now for many years.
 
That said recently have added redundancy to my internet connection just in case using PFSense and autofailure over to secondary internet connection.
 
Sister's next door neighbor though one night got his driveway mistaken for a rural road (in the middle of a residential subdivision) and a couple of kids drove in to his garage at some 30 MPH at 3 AM in the morning waking him up from a sound sleep and making a mess of his garage door and the vehicles inside of it.  I have seen this happen in this area more than once mostly with adults or near adults with small brains or drug induced euphorias.
 
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