Advise on outdoor camera purchase

Yes, Pete, the FD8151V has two lens configurations....2.5 or 4.0, but I had determined that a 4mm lens was too small a FOV for what I needed (even though the resolution was great and objects were larger) and I'm not sure I saw anyone selling the 4mm lens yet. 
 
The porch lights are on dusk to dawn (via Elk rule) and turn on via Elk/CQC for 2 minutes any other time whenever the doorbell rings or mailbox opens to provide some light in the event of a typically cloudy Seattle day.  The one thing missing from the camera is a digital out (it only has a digital in) but I've been playing with both Blue Iris and Vitamin D, and I think I can set up either one of them for motion detection triggering an external event before someone actually rings the bell or opens the mailbox and thus have the lights triggered earlier than they are now with just Elk and CQC.
 
I tried to add an image but the forum restricted me because my account here is new. You can view an image of it next to a set of my truck keys and a keychain flashlight on Amazon.com (Just search FD8151V). That photo is about actual size.
 
I am a Vivotek distributor and I really like this camera and for its price range its really good value for what you get out of it. The IRs are located where it starts to slope down.
 
@ Pete, yes his was 2.5mm that he used but there's an F6 version of this camera too.
 
Dan, sorry for delay in responding.  I got home from vacation and got tied up in, among other things, a major revision my my CQC and Elk HA rules.
 
I bought the FD8151V on Amazon.  I got a good price on Amazon Prime--crack cocaine for an OCD DIY-er.  I have posted a pic of the camera as mounted just above the front door.  You can see the screw holes in the header and door jamb where I had trial placemnents before selecting the location shown.  I was worried about shot angles, but as noted, I have the camera sending emails with 7 pre and post photos and a recording with 9 seconds of pre-trigger and 11 seconds of post-trigger actiton.  I have yet to have any problem discerning who is at the door.  The lighting on the porch (UPB) in late afternoon can be a problem with the west facing camera since I get some tree shadows on the porch, and I still need to test Blue Iris or Vitamin D software and see if I can get the porch lights turned on even before the camera's own motion detector triggers the lights and the emails.  
 
The photoelectric sensor to the right of the camera is at least 40 years old and has final control (after my CQC/Elk/UPB rules) of the porch lights.  This limits to some extent what I can do via rules during the day, but the lights seem to come on for at least a minute when external power is applied.
 

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IMHO, the only "relativly" inexpensive IP cameras thatI have seen that have a decent output are the Ubiquiti IP cameras. http://www.ubnt.com/airvision
If you have never heard of these guys, the made their name in the wireless ISP world and compete with folks like Mikrotik.  They both make INCREDIBLE routers for pennies on the dollar compared to the big boys.
You REALLY want at least megapixel cameras if you go IP to have any identity capabilities at all.
 
The next jump seems to be $350 to $500 range for cameras by Vivotek, Geovision, Acti, etc..  You can start to add some features like marginally usefull nightvision in this range.
 
The next round seems to start at $1000 and up and don't really make sense for most homeowners that would visit a DIY site like this :)
Very nice lens options and the ability to fine tune for each location at these price points.
 
All IMO!  I just went through this excercise to outfit video security for a 100,000 sq ft building my company just moved too.
I bought one of every popular Ip camera out there and compared them, then sold them on Ebay.
The cost vs. quality and limitations on IP cameras did not make sense for us.  I reused many of the Bosche cameras that were already installed but had to run fresh coax to them. 
 
I have a couple Vivotek cameras and really like them.
The FD8151V isn't an "outdoor" camera, but it appears to operate in a covered environment OK.
The temp specs are 14-122 F so I assume you just have to keep it dry.

 
 
The POE cameras generally wall mount with just a small hole underneath to snake the CAT-5 through.
The actual outdoor cameras have IP66 rated enclosures, so no surround is needed.
The IP66 enclosures are waterproof.
 
I'm thinking more along the lines of what sits in/out the outside shingles.  Some sort of platform.  I'm curious if there's anything typically used for motion sensors, like an electrical box or something else?
 
Personally I still like the Grandstream GXV3672HD IP camera for the features and the price point (on sale).   I think that the night vision is good. 
 
It would be nice to see some night shots of the $300-500 priced IP cams though.
 
I also like the Ubiquiti Aircam for the same reasons.  Today I have the modified Aircam under the overhang of the roof and its doing OK.
 
I noticed it does OK even when its a bit windy. 
 
wkearney99:  As Desert_AIP said, the only thing outside the shingles (at least in the case of my FD8151V) is the camera itself--no box or other mounting.  I drilled a 3/8 inch hole to snake both the cat 5 cable (which I then terminated) and a 24/4 cable for the digital input to the camera from the ELK (I only needed 2 of the 4).  
 
True, it may be cleaner looking to just have the camera screwed to the shingles.  A mounting block would perhaps only make it more obvious that a camera was mounted there.  I'll just have to make sure everything's caulked properly and to use screws that won't cause rust stains.
 
wkearney99 said:
True, it may be cleaner looking to just have the camera screwed to the shingles.  A mounting block would perhaps only make it more obvious that a camera was mounted there.  I'll just have to make sure everything's caulked properly and to use screws that won't cause rust stains.
Click to expand...
I would consider using (generous amount) of roofing cement/tar instead.
 
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