ALC/OnQ How Deep is Deep Enough?

[broconne]

Just searched through this forum and the tips on how deep the boxes should be is "as deep as possible"? I am looking for a more concrete number. This will be an NSO (Non Standard Option) in my house so the builder will have to price it out and give me an estimate so I can decide what features I can and cannot build based on budget.

So, what is the minimum depth where working with ALC/OnQ in the switch boxes wouldn't be murder? 2.5 inch depth? I basically just need to give him a number that will work for ALC/OnQ

Thanks!

 

[Sacedog]

I had my builder use the blue Carlon deep boxes. They were pretty much the same depth as the stud, as the back was just about flush with the other side of the 2x4. SO I would guess these are about 3 1/4" deep. I would recommend that he use as deep of a box as possible, so that the switches are easier to install later. It should not cost him much more to do this either.

 

[jlehnert]

Carlon single gang new work box B122A. 3.5 inches deep. $0.76 each at Lowes.

 

[broconne]

Carlon single gang new work box B122A. 3.5 inches deep. $0.76 each at Lowes.

Great! I will pass that on to the builder. We will see how many extra thousands he charges me Sort of TIC...

 

[mcelectric]

Boxes are rated in cu inches, and you can only put so many wires in each box. Use the deepest box you can, which is 3 1/2 inches.

 

[felixrosbergen]

My builder's preferred electrical sub was already using the deepest boxes available before we even discussed ALC. His philosophy is that the cost for the extra depth is nearly nill...and it avoids potential discussions with the inspector. He said for 3 or 4 gang boxes with several multi-way switches the inspectors sometimes give him a hard time about the total fill level of the box (# wires versus cubic inches of volume). Considering the nearly neglible extra cost for the deeper boxes even a 15 or 30 minute discussion with the inspector by the electrician woudl cost more in lost time than the extra cost for the boxes..

Anyway...i wouldnt specify a brand, in my case the electrician hated carlon (said they break to easy) and used his own preferred brand. I had him provide me a sample to test fit the ALC dimmers in to ensure they would fit.

 

[broconne]

My builder's preferred electrical sub was already using the deepest boxes available before we even discussed ALC. His philosophy is that the cost for the extra depth is nearly nill...and it avoids potential discussions with the inspector. He said for 3 or 4 gang boxes with several multi-way switches the inspectors sometimes give him a hard time about the total fill level of the box (# wires versus cubic inches of volume). Considering the nearly neglible extra cost for the deeper boxes even a 15 or 30 minute discussion with the inspector by the electrician woudl cost more in lost time than the extra cost for the boxes..

Anyway...i wouldnt specify a brand, in my case the electrician hated carlon (said they break to easy) and used his own preferred brand. I had him provide me a sample to test fit the ALC dimmers in to ensure they would fit.

That is a good idea. I will ask for a sample box.

Guess, I should by a ALC dimmer too..

 

[felixrosbergen]

Buying a ALC dimmer might be a good idea anyway. I bought a dimmer and scene switch, showed me electrician how i planned to hook it up to make sure he was confortable with it.

The ALC dimmer had a much more solid feel to it than i expected so i was pleasantly surprised. I had some X10 dimmer before and their rockers never quite felt 'solid'.

Depending on how you plan to do your ALC you may also want to decide on some location where you want and extra gang on the switchboxes so you can use an ALC scene switch. The scene switches need both HV and LV connections....i initially didnt know this and had to switch gear quite late in the game.

ALC aux switches are LV only. There is also a 'quad aux' which is LV only, but from what i understand need to be in it's own single gang box beause it's faceplate wont work with multigang boxes. I don't plan to use theyse 'quad aux' units and instead will put a scene switch in which has a decora stule front face. Using the scene switch does make you depend on the ALC controller..but it's supposed to be solid. For staircase and such I will still use the single aux switches (fit in a multigang box and have decora size face plate) and tie them directly to the master to ensure the normal 3 way functionality is completely based on hardwired and thus pretty much foolproof.

 

[Sokoloff]

Beyond "as deep as possible", specifically, will the dimmers fit in a 2 1/8" deep box? (It's a double gang metal,, with plenty of room on the sides, but only 2.125" deep.)

I can cut some furring strips out to mount a 3" box, but I'd rather not as they hold up drywall and a nice tile job on the bathroom wall. Plasterers are coming in a few weeks, and now is the time to fix it if I have to.

 

[Sacedog]

Well, it will be very tight, but it should fit. You will really need to sandwich the wires behint the switch. If you can swap it out for a deeper box, I would definately suggest it. If not, you should be OK, but might need to do a lot of "wriggling" of wires when the time comes to install the switch.

 

[beelzerob]

I finally installed my first ALC relay last weekend, and boy....I had super deep boxes, and I was still just amazed at how much cramming I had to do. Of course, it was also 4 total switches in a 3-gang box, so there was a lot going on...but I was definitely concerned for grounding wires getting bent into contact with screws, and the like.