Monk
Active Member
Dan - good thought on the Directx, but no fix. I have the latest is seems and ran through the DXDIAG tests - all good.
edit: disabling altogether is a no-go as well.
Anyone interested in all in one counter top touchscreen units?
- Thread starter Dumetre
- Start date
Dan - good thought on the Directx, but no fix. I have the latest is seems and ran through the DXDIAG tests - all good.
edit: disabling altogether is a no-go as well.
Dumetre the one unit will not load an operating system. I tried 3 different XP discs (just got a brand new one from Newegg today). When I tried to put the hard drive in my main computer to format it that computer is now no longer booting etc and wont let me reload XP.
It is almost as if the HD has a virus
I am going to try the second one
It is almost as if the HD has a virus
I am going to try the second one
drozwood90
Senior Member
I can tell you there is no possible way that it is a virus. The drives were all completely overwritten with atleast 1 pass and most of them with the DoD short method which is 3 passes. With that said the drive could have somehow went bad between the time it was wiped and now? When you get done trying the other unit PM me and let me know what you figure out. I have been working with everyone that has reported issues and getting them taken care of. Even though i did say these were as is I would much rather see them all work and you guys be happy with them especially since I have a bunch of extra parts here.
drozwood90
Senior Member
Unit 2 Power Level Update:
Booting : ~70W
Idle : ~58-60W
Screen off: ~32-35W
That's not too terrible...
Seems to have higher WAF then the Audrey units (as the touchscreens are glass).
--Dan
Booting : ~70W
Idle : ~58-60W
Screen off: ~32-35W
That's not too terrible...
Seems to have higher WAF then the Audrey units (as the touchscreens are glass).
--Dan
Monk
Active Member
.net is not a factor - does it with / without and believe me - have tried many many software scenarios under XP - I have got my entire 4 day weekend spent on this thing (last week) and that probably won't be the end of it.
Anyone know the mechanics of the monitor itself? It looks like alot of it plugs into a little daughter card - probably that is related to the "touch" part of it?
Anyone know the mechanics of the monitor itself? It looks like alot of it plugs into a little daughter card - probably that is related to the "touch" part of it?
I believe there are 3 daughter cards for the monitors. The one on the side that is long and has 2 small plugs going into it is the inverter for the backlight. The card you are referring too I believe is the touch controller board which looks to connect to the motherboard VIA usb. The third appears to be a video card that the screens plug into.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
I just came across this thread and wanted to find out if you ever got around to getting a count of how many you have left that you are willing to part with vs. keeping for spare parts.
Monk
Active Member
I have found the machines to be fairly snappy, as have others. The ELO driver allows some control over certain things but I have not found a way to adjust sensitivity yet.
mdesmarais
Active Member
Once more I started talking in the for sale post. . . sorry!
1) Power supply- my intention is to borrow/buy a clamp on ammeter and get a better idea of the actual draw on each voltage before I go the picopsu route. In reading the manual for those, they call for forced air cooling and derating (pg 3) if you are close to the max, so I want to make sure I account for that, either getting airflow there, or picking a large enough unit so that I'm not pushing it. I'll post my results here.
2) Wall mounting- I've had a 5055B mounted in the wall for close to 4 years like this-
Kind of hard to see- here is what a unit out of the wall looks like- (bottom)
And top- note the small overhang- this is also present on the the sides of the unit.
BTW, this idea came from one of the other 5055 users.
A) Cut a hole in the wallboard that is the size of the back portion of the unit.
B) Attach a longish softish spring inside the wall, towards the back of the cavity, taking into account the length of the spring.
C) Plug cables onto the bottom of the unit (network and power)
D) Place bottom of the unit into the hole, and hook the spring to the upper corner(s) of the unit (I just did one). Easy on the 5055 because there are tapped holes.
E) Tip the top of the unit in flush to the wall- spring tension keeps it there, all weight is down on the wallboard.
Now, look at our units-
I'm seeing a very familiar overhang. ;-)
Once the power supply is taken care of, and the whole heavy base comes off. . .
The back portion is just less than 2.25", leaving over an inch of breathing space for the fans in a standard 2x4 wall. I would NOT put it in an insulated bay!
Should be pretty easy to attach a mounting point or two to the plastic case near the top for a retaining spring. The bottom is sloped a little more that the 5055, and the connectors won't really hold it in the same way. I will probably add a little ledge to hook behind the drywall for security along that edge. Or maybe cut a notch in the plastic shell- although that destroys the resale. ;-)
If it feels heavier than the 5055 (doubtful, that unit has a cast metal heat dissipating case), I might reinforce the drywall along the bottom edge.
Mounted like this it will stick out about 2.5". I'd monitor the temperature to make sure there is enough cooling, but I expect it would be fine. I'd also use sleep mode pretty aggressively, which should help with the overall thermal load.
Converting to 12V picopsu lets me meet code by not burying 110 connectors in the wall. . . just 12v and network. I stay in the original case (note that though plastic, it has been flashed for EMI reduction) too.
Thoughts? Comments?
Markd
1) Power supply- my intention is to borrow/buy a clamp on ammeter and get a better idea of the actual draw on each voltage before I go the picopsu route. In reading the manual for those, they call for forced air cooling and derating (pg 3) if you are close to the max, so I want to make sure I account for that, either getting airflow there, or picking a large enough unit so that I'm not pushing it. I'll post my results here.
2) Wall mounting- I've had a 5055B mounted in the wall for close to 4 years like this-
Kind of hard to see- here is what a unit out of the wall looks like- (bottom)
And top- note the small overhang- this is also present on the the sides of the unit.
BTW, this idea came from one of the other 5055 users.
A) Cut a hole in the wallboard that is the size of the back portion of the unit.
B) Attach a longish softish spring inside the wall, towards the back of the cavity, taking into account the length of the spring.
C) Plug cables onto the bottom of the unit (network and power)
D) Place bottom of the unit into the hole, and hook the spring to the upper corner(s) of the unit (I just did one). Easy on the 5055 because there are tapped holes.
E) Tip the top of the unit in flush to the wall- spring tension keeps it there, all weight is down on the wallboard.
Now, look at our units-
I'm seeing a very familiar overhang. ;-)
Once the power supply is taken care of, and the whole heavy base comes off. . .
The back portion is just less than 2.25", leaving over an inch of breathing space for the fans in a standard 2x4 wall. I would NOT put it in an insulated bay!
Should be pretty easy to attach a mounting point or two to the plastic case near the top for a retaining spring. The bottom is sloped a little more that the 5055, and the connectors won't really hold it in the same way. I will probably add a little ledge to hook behind the drywall for security along that edge. Or maybe cut a notch in the plastic shell- although that destroys the resale. ;-)
If it feels heavier than the 5055 (doubtful, that unit has a cast metal heat dissipating case), I might reinforce the drywall along the bottom edge.
Mounted like this it will stick out about 2.5". I'd monitor the temperature to make sure there is enough cooling, but I expect it would be fine. I'd also use sleep mode pretty aggressively, which should help with the overall thermal load.
Converting to 12V picopsu lets me meet code by not burying 110 connectors in the wall. . . just 12v and network. I stay in the original case (note that though plastic, it has been flashed for EMI reduction) too.
Thoughts? Comments?
Markd
Ok I got them up and running today. I had a friend come over and helped. There were hidden files on the drives which kept me from loading an OS (Win 2000). By removing them and putting them inside another computer and formatting them did the trick.
I was able to load the ELO drivers on the one and the touchscreen works (will try the other one another time). I cant find a network adapter driver though so I can not connect to the internet.
Digger - Did you check the drivers posted?
I am also looking to wall mount one and plan on getting rid of the black case completely. If you unhook the power supply you can pull the "carcass" out that includes every thing but the power supply. I will then attach a picture frame to the front using the same holes that the front bezel attached too. At that point all I need to do is make a couple brackets to hold it in place and to hold the power supply.
Having everything mounted to the nice steal bracket will make it fairly easy to wall mount.
I am also looking to wall mount one and plan on getting rid of the black case completely. If you unhook the power supply you can pull the "carcass" out that includes every thing but the power supply. I will then attach a picture frame to the front using the same holes that the front bezel attached too. At that point all I need to do is make a couple brackets to hold it in place and to hold the power supply.
Having everything mounted to the nice steal bracket will make it fairly easy to wall mount.
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