Automating Plantation Shutters

I'm a Norman dealer, along with most other brands, and I can confirm they are an excellent product in every respect. They are a Chinese product, and their finishes are second to none. The motorized hardly look any different than non-motorized shutters.

Can you give any specifics of the actuators used? Manufacturers?

IIRC, the Norman product's motor wasn't attached to the central tilt rod, and was hidden in the frame.
 
I'm a Norman dealer, along with most other brands, and I can confirm they are an excellent product in every respect. They are a Chinese product, and their finishes are second to none. The motorized hardly look any different than non-motorized shutters.

Can you give any specifics of the actuators used? Manufacturers?

IIRC, the Norman product's motor wasn't attached to the central tilt rod, and was hidden in the frame.
I have one of these sitting on my lap right now operating, but unfortunately, I don't have any idea what's inside the box that's embedded in the vertical side rail. Taking off the cover reveals the battery compartment and a sealed gray plastic motor and electronics module. I'm not anxious to take that apart as this demo works smooth as glass and I don't want to mess it up.

As you point out, they do not drive it with the central tilt rod. The motor rotates one of the slats and the central tilt rod moves all of the other slats in unison.

Since these are IR, one would probably need an IR blaster to run a group of shutters as a stick on emitter wouldn't look very good stuck on the front. I assume the codes are all the same, so the entire group would move to the same position. There are 8 buttons on the remote. Seven slat positions plus fully closed.

It would be my belief that these were not intended for automation interface, but were intended to be a simple stand alone solution.

What we have sold and installed have been mostly on high up windows that customers can't reach and they love them for that.
 
I'm a Norman dealer, along with most other brands, and I can confirm they are an excellent product in every respect. They are a Chinese product, and their finishes are second to none. The motorized hardly look any different than non-motorized shutters.

Can you give any specifics of the actuators used? Manufacturers?

IIRC, the Norman product's motor wasn't attached to the central tilt rod, and was hidden in the frame.
I have one of these sitting on my lap right now operating, but unfortunately, I don't have any idea what's inside the box that's embedded in the vertical side rail. Taking off the cover reveals the battery compartment and a sealed gray plastic motor and electronics module. I'm not anxious to take that apart as this demo works smooth as glass and I don't want to mess it up.

As you point out, they do not drive it with the central tilt rod. The motor rotates one of the slats and the central tilt rod moves all of the other slats in unison.

Since these are IR, one would probably need an IR blaster to run a group of shutters as a stick on emitter wouldn't look very good stuck on the front. I assume the codes are all the same, so the entire group would move to the same position. There are 8 buttons on the remote. Seven slat positions plus fully closed.

It would be my belief that these were not intended for automation interface, but were intended to be a simple stand alone solution.

What we have sold and installed have been mostly on high up windows that customers can't reach and they love them for that.

I have a large 2 story wall of windows, 3 windows wide, all covered by plantation shutters. Wall must be 20 feet tall. I can't get to the second story shutters.

Since the Norman product, I don't think, is not a linear actuator, I don't think that specific motor could work.
 
Somfy and Elero seem to be the leading manufacturers of blind, shade, and awning motors.

Now, how to control...

Firgelli Automations offers many motors for DIY projects...prepackaged control and actuator seems appealing, remote IR would be ideal.

This project may also offer a solution to my AV cabinet overheating problem. I have side cabinet doors that could be automated, possibly in conjunction with fans. Original plan was to vent the floor-to-ceiling cabinet to the attic above.
 
All it takes is money.... :)

I know Somfy makes a RS-232 interface for their system (at least the hardwired systems). But I believe it is around $500. Of course you have the cost of the motorized blinds and power supplies on top of that as well.

I don't know of an inexpensive solution out there.
 
All it takes is money.... :)

I know Somfy makes a RS-232 interface for their system (at least the hardwired systems). But I believe it is around $500. Of course you have the cost of the motorized blinds and power supplies on top of that as well.

I don't know of an inexpensive solution out there.

Yeah, I think this project, for the shutters, will be pushed to the back burner. In part, because of money, but mostly because I'll have to run power to each window, requiring drywall/paint. It's in the plan for the next 2 years, to repaint that room (and do a partial kitchen refinish - 1 continous, large room), so I guess I'll have plenty of time.

Now, though, I can experiment with using linear actuators on the stereo cabinet side doors, for ventilation.

Is it really this simple, though? DC linear actuator controlled by IR-equipped controller? IR code 'learned into' universal remote? Actuators and controllers seem to run ~$100 each.

What devices would I use to incorporate temperature-regulated control?
 
Depending on the actuator, you would likely just need a relay to apply power, maybe set up as reversing, if necessary.

Where are you seeing these actuators?
 
All it takes is money.... :)

I know Somfy makes a RS-232 interface for their system (at least the hardwired systems). But I believe it is around $500. Of course you have the cost of the motorized blinds and power supplies on top of that as well.

I don't know of an inexpensive solution out there.

Yeah, I think this project, for the shutters, will be pushed to the back burner. In part, because of money, but mostly because I'll have to run power to each window, requiring drywall/paint. It's in the plan for the next 2 years, to repaint that room (and do a partial kitchen refinish - 1 continous, large room), so I guess I'll have plenty of time.

Now, though, I can experiment with using linear actuators on the stereo cabinet side doors, for ventilation.

Is it really this simple, though? DC linear actuator controlled by IR-equipped controller? IR code 'learned into' universal remote? Actuators and controllers seem to run ~$100 each.

What devices would I use to incorporate temperature-regulated control?

I wonder if anyone has tried using the alarm sensor wires to provide low voltage power to a power window. The alarm wire is usually 4 wires but only two are used for the window sensor leaving a free pair. I asked my alarm guy once, he said there wasn't any reason it couldn't be done. So something to keep in mind when planning to automate windows that there may be a free pair of low voltage wire right there for you. You can't do up/down/stop with only a pair of wires but at least you can supply power and then use an IR or RF solution for control like Somfy RTS.
 
I wonder if anyone has tried using the alarm sensor wires to provide low voltage power to a power window. The alarm wire is usually 4 wires but only two are used for the window sensor leaving a free pair. I asked my alarm guy once, he said there wasn't any reason it couldn't be done. So something to keep in mind when planning to automate windows that there may be a free pair of low voltage wire right there for you. You can't do up/down/stop with only a pair of wires but at least you can supply power and then use an IR or RF solution for control like Somfy RTS.

Good idea. I'll have to pop off some trim to check it out, though, as I'm unsure how the security cable comes to the window (from below, side, top). But I know it's 22-4.

I'll have to take a close look at the alarm panel. IIRC, some of the 4-conductor cables may cover 2 zones each.

But I like the way you think!
 
Depending on the actuator, you would likely just need a relay to apply power, maybe set up as reversing, if necessary.

Where are you seeing these actuators?

Firgelli - 2 separate websites, 1 professional and the other for geeks like me (more info & toys on geek page)
http://www.firgelli.com/products.php
http://www.firgelliauto.com/
actuator1.jpg


Somfy motors:
http://www.somfy.com/nam_pro/index.cfm?pag...;language=en-us
Somfy control interfaces/third party wiring and control:
http://www.somfy.com/nam_pro/index.cfm?pag...;language=en-us

google 'linear actuator', and search eBay

Another online store:
http://progressiveautomations.com/linear-a...tors/cat_8.html

Some useful threads describe the use of linear actuators in the home theater on AVSforum.
 
I just found that Somfy makes an off-the-shelf 'tilt' motor, the 'Tilt WireFree 2" Horizontal Blind Tilt Motor', which may work.

Programmable limit (stop) settings via 'transmitter or wall switch'.

Found a youtube video, showing how to install for the usual retrofit (motorizing horizontal blinds):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYZiwSNgS3Y

Given that control is via RTS (Radio Technology Somfy), it seems that CQC has a driver for this...will have to research more, on the CQC forum. ;)

Motor is supposed to be battery-operated, 12V, but could easily be hardwired.
 
Seems that the Somfy RTS controlled motors can also be controlled with dry contacts (Elk?), after programming limits with a Somfy RC.

Or I could use an I/O IP-enabled controller, discussed by Tony, Lagerhead, 123, Frederick C. Wil..., and BSR in another thread, since I don't have an M1.
 
I know this is an old thread, but I figured I'd give my solution in case anyone ever looks up on how to motorize plantation blinds. Have a look here:

http://www.mysmarthomeblog.com/page--23.html
 
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