New Home Construction: Where to Start? What needs to be put in during construction?

[Tessa]

It looks like this forum has a lot of knowledgeable people, so I am hoping you can help me find a foothold to get started on looking at home automation. Right now I'm overwhelmed.

We're in the early stages of arranging to have a house built.

We have a family member with some mobility impairment, and so automation--control from wherever we happen to be--seems like a really good idea.

Our goals are:
* to have the automation system controlled via Android tablets hung in each room, by default displaying a clock but able to switch to automation control when activated. Also to have similar controls on our Android phones.
* to automate as much of the house as reasonable: opening of the gate to the property, fire alarm, thermostat, lights, window and door locks, perhaps even opening doors, anything else we haven't thought of?
** In automating as much of the house as possible, I would absolutely love to be able to automate kitchen appliances. I'm thinking of things like turning off the stove from a different room.
** It would be superb if the gate, garage door, and even the house doors could open when they detect specific smart phones approaching.
* To set video cameras (webcams, security cameras, etc) in various places in the house and property, and to be able to pull up the video from the cameras on the tablets and phones. For example, if someone pulls up at the gate, the gate video camera should automatically display on all the tablets, and we should be offered a choice to open the gate, or to deny entrance without acknowledging that we are home.
* for the automated system to notify *us* if the fire alarm goes off, if doors/windows open when they shouldn't, window shatter alarm is triggered, etc (not to alert some alarm company).
* A few other things that I am hoping I can handle entirely through Android apps, if I can ever find some that do what I want (panic buttons to contact residents who aren't home, as detected by whether or not their smartphone is currently on the home wi-fi network, that sort of thing).

If any of this would be much better accomplished some other way, I'm open to suggestion. This is just how I'm envisioning setting it all up. If there are better methods, I just don't know them.


Our builder tells us that they use a contractor for home automation; I've been to the contractor's website, and it appears that the contractor uses something called "InterConekt" and "GE SecurityPro" for security automation, and "Control 4" for recreational automation.

I suspect that the contractor who handles automation for the builder is going to want to set things up so that our house can be monitored by an alarm company, preferably them. We haven't yet spoken to them, so we don't know how cooperative they'll be in designing home automation that is independent of any alarm monitoring contract.

I don't know if the tools available to them will allow for what we want anyway.

I don't know where to start looking to *find* the right tools. I've tried to research into home automation, and so far most of what I have learned is that there are a few different control systems, and that any elements of the system have to be compatible with the control system. From there the information available explodes and becomes enormous, and also seems to assume that the reader is already familiar with the control system for any particular element you might be looking at.

I don't know if any of the various control systems are more preferable, have more options, have more versatility, are more reliable; I don't know which if any are compatible with wi-fi or bluetooth control via Android apps. What control systems should I be investigating?

What I most urgently need to know, I suppose, is what we'll need to have put in while the house is being constructed. I'm planning to run cat6 everywhere, hardwired network jacks in all the rooms of the house and all the way to the gate for the eventual control of the automatic gate/camera (along with power, of course). But what does automation need in the way of built-in structure?

What else do I need to have installed for control of alarms, thermostat, lights, fans, locks, windows/doors, etc? What do I need to put into the house to make it easy to expand the system later if we want, or change it if we decide we want to use a different control system?

Where do I *start*? What do I need to know? What should I focus on?

 

[picta]

Welcome Tessa, you can start from consulting with the Wiring Your New House guide that can be found in the Downloads section of this forum. The next thing you can do is to search this board for "new house" and "new construction" and you'll find a lot of posts with very similar questions that have already been answered. You can search for "automated doors" and there are details out there already posted.
 
In your situation the best thing to do would be to put in as much wire in as you can afford and supplement it with conduit to the locations where you plan to have video displays for future proofing. Anything you wish to automate in your lifetime - pre-wire for it. This will not be cheap but will save you a bundle in the long run. For automated window coverings you have to decide on the kind you may want to use (inside mount, outside mount or drapes) for appropriate placement of the control and power wires. There are not that many kitchen appliances that can be automatically controlled (yet) but placing additional cat6 drops in the kitchen may help in the future.
 
As for the controller, you can choose one later, but you do need to decide where it will be located and run all the wires to that location. Also provision for ventilation in that location as the equipment will generate considerable heat.
 
If you want automated lights, use very deep non-metal gang boxes for your light switches, and make sure there is a neutral wire in each box. If you plan having ceiling fans with light, have 2 separate wire runs from the switch box to the fixture, as most retrofit fan controllers can only control the fan and you'll need a separate switch for the light.

 

[Mario23]

I'm planning a build right now as well.  All good points brought up by picta.  Along those lines I've been looking at my layout and mapping out all the wires I will need.
As said above, deep boxes with neutrals and plenty of wires everywhere.  When it comes to cat5e or cat6, it can be used for so many things to run plenty.  For example, one run for a tv, one run for IR and or tv box etc...or hdmi baluns...the list just keeps going so run plenty!
 
If you set up a central wiring closet, run isolated 20p power to that location so your not hurting for power down the line.  Consider the location for ease of maintenance and central broadcasting as well as ventilation.
 
And when your done...run more wire!!!

 

[Tessa]

I just wanted to make sure I do say "thank you" some time reasonably after when you've both answered.  I'm having a kind of crazy week and spending less computer time than I thought at home.  I will be looking intensely at the download and the searches suggested, as soon as I possibly can, and I do appreciate it very much.
 
Just to recap what you've said so far so I make sure I understand: when you say "pre-wire for it," picta, you mean cat6 cable?  That's all the wiring I'll need for automating anything?   With, of course, dedicated electrical power as well.
 
So:
* a central cabinet somewhere that all the cat6 runs to,
* cabinet should have good ventilation and ...20p power?  What's "p"?  I know amps and volts and watts.
* lots, and lots, and LOTS of individual cat6 wires, to anywhere I might want to place an automated piece of electronics,
* lots more cat6 wires,
 * also conduit for running more wire in the future,
 * (should I put in anything else besides the cat6? Is that all that's needed for controlling automation at this point?)
* put in non-metal deep boxes with a neutral wire anywhere I want automated lights
 * (inside? what about outside lights?)
 * (does each light box need a cat6 cable too?)
 
Does none of this run on secure wi-fi?
 
Can I control an outbuilding too, if I run cat6 out to it?  Or does it need to be reasonably close to the controller?  (I'm looking to turn on AC and lights a while before heading out to it, to cool it off and be able to see.)
 
We're not actually interested in automatic window coverings specifically; we will have foliage privacy screens and like to be able to see our own property at any time, day and night.  It might help with resale eventually, but we're hoping to stay here for decades, so I imagine the state of automation will be very different if/when we go to sell.
 
But I do want to *open* windows and doors with my Android phone/tablets if it can be done at decent expense.  I'll go looking for those previous posts very soon.
 
Thank you both!

 

[apostolakisl]

Automated window coverings are readily available and expensive, but not out of this world expensive.  Windows that open automatically are going to be a very pricey challenge.  Obviously you would want to do automatic windows right from the start, blinds can be added later.  You should pull wire to the windows and leave it coiled up in the wall for future use if you think you will add blinds later.  Probably would be good to drill the hole in the frame while the walls are still open and bring the wire into the hole with a cap on it so it can be accessed in the future with no tearing out of things.
 
Take lots of pictures of all of your wires before the sheetrock goes up.  Lots and lots and lots and lots.
 
I advocate running conduit everywhere you think you might want a "tech" device.  Wiring standards change significantly pretty often, especially with AV stuff.  In addition, you may just not be sure what tech stuff you might be buying for a particular location so conduit future proofs it.
 
Run lots of alarm system wiring for things like water detectors, whole house water valves, detecting end of cycle on your washer/dryer, water softener salt level, controlling your overhead garage doors, and anything else.  Also, if you would like to know if a door is locked, you can run an alarm wire and put a plunger contact into the dead bolt hole to know if it is engaged.
 
If this is something you want to be in control of after the install, you will need to find someone who is not putting in a "dealer only" type system, or you have to put it in yourself.  Elk and HAI are the two main security/HA platforms used by DIY people.  You definitely need a true security system to run the security system.  Automating lighting can be done via Insteon, UPB, Z-wave, or maybe the new Ube platform if it comes to fruition.  None of these require anything special as they all are wired into standard wired homes.  Just make sure that you have a neutral to every single electric box and that they use plastic boxes.  You shouldn't have to ask for these things as they are the standard, but it is worth confirming.

 

[Tessa]

Thank you also.
 
What kind of wire is "alarm system wiring"? 
 
Do I want to run power, AND cat6, AND "alarm system wiring" to every element of the system that might be automated someday?  As well as conduit for future changes/additions/etc.
 
What do you mean by a "true security system"?  Do you mean something like an actual third-party monitored system, or something else?  I don't recognize the phrasing.
 
Elk and HAI; I will look into these and see what I can learn.  I have more success having things explained to me this way, though, so I appreciate your advice.
 
Insteon, UPB, Z-wave, Ube; I've heard of all of these except the last, but haven't gotten much past "these all seem to be different control systems, and seem to each have their own devices that won't work with each other".  These can work in combination with the Elk or HAI?  Can one control the other, or do I need two separate systems running independently of each other, with two unrelated controls?  Is any one of them particularly good for someone with only mild exposure to computer hardware and programming?
 
Thanks also for the suggestion about taking photos of the wiring while the walls are open.  Definitely in the plan, and even arranged with the builder, but I hadn't said so, so I appreciate you making sure I get that photo record.

 

[apostolakisl]

Alarm system wire is typically sold as such.  20 or 22 gauge 2 stranded for most contacts, 4 conductor for your powered devices light motion detectors and some types of water detectors.  
 
Run cat5 or 6 to your keypads.  You might also consider running an extra set of 18 or 20 gauge wires to your keypads so you can have a power supply and cat5/6 wire if you go with "ipad" or if you want to run a speaker or whatever.
 
Run smoke detector wire to your smoke detectors.  It will be designated as such.  You will daisy chain your smokes.  4 stranded wire is the safest bet, if you choose a 2 wire system, then you just leave the other 2 strands alone.
 
By a true security system I mean that it is a UL listed security panel.  Like Elk or HAI.  Not a HA device that can sort of do security.  Elk and HAI are both security panels.
 
Elk and HAI can both integrate with the various automatic lights.  Ube is not yet to market, it is a startup and you know how that can go.  They say they will be shipping in June.  You can search this forum to learn more.  The Insteon/ISY/Elk combination works together very well, that is what I have.  Also, the ISY is getting very close to having full z-wave support which means you can seamlessly have both Elk, zwave, and Insteon in the same house.  Ube is a 100% IP based communication protocol with an open source API so it should integrate with a lot of stuff, ISY included.
 
All of the systems require you to program them.  They all have a learning curve, but none of them require that you have a degree in IT or programming, just that you have the willingness to learn and at least a modest IQ.  Also you need a wife who is willing to put up with your crazy schemes (and is willing to put up with your "unexplained" failure. . .in other words, your logical programming mistakes).  We call this the WAF (wife acceptance factor).  EDIT:  Ooops, maybe you are the wife. . .Tessa probably is not a guy.  Don't get many women on the forum, but it is great to see if you are.  Maybe you will need the HAF.

 

[pete_c]

Welcome to the forum Tessa!
 
Personally I would read the above posted links relating to wiring and technologies for home automation. 
 
The forum and users here are a gold mine of information. 
 
After reading you will know a bit more relating to what to ask for or what ideally you would want to see done to your new home pre and during construction.
 
The contractor has mentioned a subcontracted home automation / security company.  
 
Not sure here if the contractor is the in between or you are going to deal directly with the home automation and or security company before, during and after construction or the contractor is going to let you subcontract your own home automation / security? 
 
This noted then guessing that maybe the contractor is building a home to your specfications per an architectural drawing.
 
The above noted I would request a custom "page" or drawing specifying your specfic needs for automation from the architect asking the contractor to provide said drawings before breaking ground unless the contractor is letting you do a DIY / subcontract for your home automation needs.
 
If you are still at the "drawing" stage of your new home; you can pencil in and make lists of "stuff" relating to infrastructure and low voltage wirings that you can put on your checklist.  
 
You will get a lot of input from this forum relating to your endeavor. 
 
Its much more cost effective to provide a good base infrastructure prior to the completion of your new home.    
 
The "good base infrastructure" pieces are relative depending on how informed or knowledgable the contractor is to your needs (or subcontractor). 
 
Home automation residential infrastructure today has though now become very "cookie cutter" like; with many basics that will provide and answer to most of your needs.

 

[picta]

I would also recommend reading this post where one of the members describes step-by-step instructions of his new home automation project:
 
http://cocoontech.com/forums/topic/22276-documenting-the-home-automation-technology-in-quadomated/

 

[Tessa]

Working my way through the download as time allows.  Still have only a few minutes at a time at the computer. 
 
That link looks great, thank you.
 
...not finding anything searching here for "automated doors" (with or without quotes), and that's definitely something that would be helpful.  Didn't see anything like it in the "library"; got any other search terms I might try?
 
Ha, yes, I'm a wife, indeed.  And the spouse in the relationship is a husband, yes, and as a matter of fact, he's a network programmer, so will probably eventually be enthused about home automation as a project.  It's just that neither of us is specifically up to date on modern home automation.  Yet.
 
Since I'm the one dealing with the builders, well, that means I'm the one who gets to learn about automation for now.  ("Dealing with the builders"--and the realtor and the mortgage and all the other paperwork and such--is why I keep not getting to sit at the computer for long.  It's a kind of frantic moment in the construction process, but one where I *really* need to know this soon.)  We've just passed the "where are all the walls, doors, and windows?" part of the plan drawing and are moving on to the "where is the wiring and plumbing?" part of the plan.  I am trying to determine:
 
Can we leave all this to the builder's subcontractor?  (My guess is no, not if we don't want to end up with a third party monitoring system.)
 
Would we rather do this more as a DIY project?  (Probably.)
 
If so, what kind of wiring do we need to put in the walls while we have the opportunity? (so far, sounds like cat6, neutral wires, alarm system wiring, and smoke detector wiring--and appropriate electric circuits)
 
And is there anything besides wires that needs to go into the walls? (sounds like no, not right now, so all I need to know about _right_now_ is wires.)
 
Nifty.  Okay, so my updated notes-in-progress stand at:
* Have a central cabinet somewhere that all the cat6 runs to, and I assume the alarm system wiring and smoke detector wiring.  This will eventually contain the security system control and the automation control, which can work together.
* cabinet should have good ventilation and ...20p power?   Still don't know "p."  I know amps and volts and watts.
* lots, and lots, and LOTS of individual cat6 wires, to anywhere I might want to place an automated piece of electronics.
* lots more cat6 wires.
 ** also conduit for running more wire in the future.
* put in non-metal deep boxes with a neutral wire anywhere I want automated lights.
 ** (inside? what about outside lights?)
 ** (does each and every light need a dedicated cat6 cable too?)
* Run "smoke detector wiring" (it will be labeled as such) to each smoke alarm.  Sounds like this is in series.
* Run "alarm system wiring" (it will be labeled as such) to anything I want to detect rather than control.
 ** 2 strand wire to anything that requires simple detection.
 ** 4 conductor (will have to look this term up when I get a chance) to anything that will require power in response to something it detects, like motion sensing lights
* and of course, document, label, and get good photos of everything before the walls are closed.  Label *everything*.  Draw diagrams.  Keep detailed lists to go with the photos and diagrams.  You may have observed that I'm a listy kind of person.
 
Quickly skimming some of the other current threads, I see there are a lot more possibilities than I had even envisioned.  Water valves!  Automating pasture irrigation, and turning off certain extraneous plumbing systems on the few nights that we have hard freezes!  Detectors at the main gate! 
 
Checking to see if the barn door is closed without actually GOING out to look!  Whoo! 
 
Well, wait.  *Can* I automate things at a significant distance from the house?  Is there a limit to the distance I can run wire for either automation control or for detection?  Will they need extra shielding?  Will they need anything else to run them through the ground?
 
If I want to automate more than one thing at a distance--for example, controlling irrigation at the well AND also turning off one or several main pipes in case of freezing--do I need to run multiple individual cat6 wires all the way from the house to the well?  Is there some way to network this at the far end instead?
 
Does every single individual light in the house need a dedicated cat6 cable of its own?
 
If I want to control a ceiling fan separately from the light on it, do I need two cat6 cables to the fan?  ...or, wait, since it says up there I need a non-metal deep box for automated lights, does that mean I actually can't control a ceiling fan and its light at all?
 
Oh, ah, heh.  I may have mis-spoken slightly when I said we don't care about automating window coverings.  I hate window coverings.   Hate.  Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaate.  I hate window shades, and blinds, and most curtains.  Really, if you can cover a window with it, I probably hate it.  I can see the point if you're urban or suburban and your neighbors can see into your house without trying or your house has unwanted light coming in or something.  But not our house.
 
I would be so happy to be able to open the windows themselves, if it can be done, by pushing buttons rather than injuring my shoulders (which are, kind of, permanently, out of order).  I would be thrilled to open doors, if it can be done, by pushing buttons rather than injuring my shoulders.  So far the most economical and reliable-looking solutions I've found don't integrate with home automation systems, will only work on unlocked doors, and cost $500 for every single door/window; this is a bit irrational.  I'm kind of wondering if we can accomplish something with a servo motor and an arduino, but this is *definitely* outside my experience level. 
 
 
Thanks again for all the info so far, still working on the further information, and appreciate any further suggestions or answers too

 

[picta]

To automate doors and windows is not going to be cheap, but it is doable. If you want it to really work, you'll want a durable device. I have Andersen windows with openers, they are also described in quadomated post. I also have Velux electric skylights that are easy to integrate into HA system. For doors you could take a look at: http://www.weopendoors4u.com/residential.html

 

[apostolakisl]

Regarding running cat6 to your switches/ceiling fans.  While there are some systems that require that, I suggest you use one of the more common systems such as Insteon, UPB, Zwave, or maybe Ube to control those devices via RF, power line communication, or wifi (ube).  As far as ceiling fans, Insteon has fully functioning ceiling fan controllers that run both the light and fan at 3 speeds.  I can't say if zwave or UPB has the same thing.  
 
I suggest you visit the websites of the various HA manufacturers, like Elk, HAI, and Smarthome (Insteon).  UPB and Zwave are protocols that multiple companies make, so you won't be able to go to just one site and get the full story, but again, you can find what you need here and just googling.
 
As far as your well, the well itself probably needs nothing since it runs on pressure switches.  You might run a CAT6 to it just in case.  Wherever you have your valves is the key.  Probably you will run 24vac to the valves, so really the key is where are you bringing all the 24vac wires together for control.
 
If your distances are great, like over 100m, then CAT6 is not recommended for IP communication, at least not without a booster.
 
And when it comes to your smokes, you will need to confirm with your local inspector what they will pass you on.  Some require a 120vac system even though the low voltage systems as part of a security system fully meet code and are better in lots of ways.  Since you are out in the country, you may be able to just do whatever you want.

 

[pete_c]

Here new construction back around 2000; we let the contracted alarm installer run the 22/4 & 22/2 wire home running it to the closet and added a few things to the original specfications.  The company covered every window / door / PIR detectors and console connections.  They were very good at what they did.  They capped most of the connections.  A few years later it was time to put in the alarm panel and originally I requested a quote ($4000 at the time) and later DIY'd it with a HAI OPII.  It was a relatively easy DIY as all / most of the wiring had already been done. 
 
Before the wiring DIY I did add to the electrician's drawing / copy of the drawing the Low voltage wiring stuff.  That and I asked the contractor how much it would cost.  That and the contractor showed me other work relating to LV cabling he was doing at other construction sites.  That noted the contractor costs for the adds justified the two day DIY wiring endeavor.
 
My wife and I had a couple of weeks before the walls were up so we took a couple of days and ran the low voltage wiring.  Just really audio, cat5e, RG6, et al.  I did run some conduit (smurf tubing) but mostly ran much of the cabling to mud plates with instructions to the dry wall folks to cut around the mud plates.  After the base painting I did put blanks over each of the mud plates and today still there are many blank covers in the house.  I added the terminations a little bit at a time.  Intially it was just TV, Audio and Network.  One room was to be an office such that we had the contractor put in PVC tubing and electrical to the middle of the room floor for a desk.   New thing now is LCD wall mounting; that said you might consider locations for LCD TV's mounting with in wall insert LV and HV gang boxes.  In the midwest I have also added electrical circuits to unique breakers literally doubling the amount of circuit breaks providing a bit more granularity to the electrical.  IE: the kitchen for example has separate breakers for the larger appliances, outlets and lighting.  Also consider surge protection for the electrical; easy to do during construction and installation of electrical circuits. 
 
In the midwest I have added water pressure guages, shutoffs and addition water meters.
 
In current home we have three HV electrical switch wiring in most of the rooms; one being overhead light, fan and 1/2 of all of the outlets.  I did not run cat5e for the lighting but did run it to the vicinity for audio controllers at the time.  (each room's electrical gang box has a paired adjacent LV gang box)
 
The interior to exterior of the home adds related to LV cabling for satellite television, landscaping lighting, landscaping sprinkler system, cameras, telephone, broad band access.  (maybe too some temperature sensor wires).
 
You wil read that the more cabling / conduit you have installed; the easier it is to add stuff afterwards.  Literally all of the LV cabling is run to one central location and labeled.

 

[Tessa]

I do thank you all for your contributions to my education
 
I'm afraid pete_c's post is an example of what is making this *really* heavy going for someone like me, whose exposure to wiring comes from basic physics class lab sections.  (Hey, I can build a little motor! I know what a resistor is!  Um, what the heck is "

RG6QS"?  {From the very beginning of the "Wiring Your House" download.})  So, so many terms that I just don't recognize.  I appreciate the intent to help, but where various other posters are using three or four terms I don't know and have to go look up, that post has three or four every few lines.  It's much the same with many of the posts I find via search and with the "Wiring Your New House" download.  When I have to look up a term for every line I read, it takes for-e-ver to get through the document.
 
I really, really appreciate the previous responses that are taking the time to explain any terms I haven't recognized.  All of you are kind.
 
---
 
100 meters!  Hey, I read that first as 100' and was concerned, but.  100 *meters* is doable pretty easily, I think, to anywhere it needs to go. 
 
I will look into boosters too, though, and measure a little more carefully than I have yet done.
 
The thing about the well is that I don't want to turn the *well* on and off.  By the by, locally, a well generally has its own dedicated "house" with a dedicated circuit breaker panel and is where the plumbing originates for various uses.  For us, there will be two main pipes out of the well: one to the house, one that splits into three for pasture irrigation, livestock water in the pasture, and the outbuilding.  I'd like to be able to turn off the second pipe entirely if it will freeze (but *not* the water to the house), and it would be really nice to automate a valve on the sub-pipe that leads to pasture irrigation.  So that's two very different uses, which would require two distinct valves, at the pipes in the well house itself.
 
So, am I right to think that will require two different cat6 cables?  And there's no way to run just one cable out there and use it for both, in some way? 
 
And again, there are multiple things I'd like to control at the outbuilding as well--the thermostat, the lights, door open detectors.  Does each and every one of these need to have its own dedicated wire?  This seems so wasteful and inefficient; is there no other way?
 
I'm guessing we can run any wiring to the well when we trench from the well to the homesite.  Does the wiring need to be contained in anything specific?  The builders have already agreed to put in conduit everywhere they lay wire or plumbing so that I can add more wiring later, but does the conduit need to be made of anything in particular?
 
---
 
Okay, so I may *not* need cat6 run to each and every thing I'd like to control?  Some of them can be done wirelessly, or over the electrical wiring that will already be in place?  Very nifty.
 
Then where do I *need* it?  And then where should I run it just in case I might want it?
 
If I want to have a number of devices controlled by the same switch, can I somehow run the same cat6 cable along them and hook it to each of them?  For example, multiple lights in a large open room, or driveway lights.  If I want them on, I want them *all* on.  Do I run the power wires to some central area in the room or somewhere, and then have all of them hooked into the end of the cat6 cable?
 
I don't have the time to go browsing right now   I'd love to, but I don't.  I also don't have the attention span.  I was re-injured over a previous injury the evening before last, and am in enough pain to make it hard to focus.  I may be losing some of the elements of the land purchase and construction contract I was trying to arrange; I am in *bad* shape.  Frustration.  Frustration.
 
Once you kind folks gave me a bit of a foothold, I was really encouraged.  I was hoping that at this point I would not have to be making any decisions about precisely which control system to use, since we're still just planning the house; things may be different by the time it's built, and decisions made now might not be as desirable, and we're in kind of a hurry, and the spouse can contribute to decisions with more time for us both to do more in-depth research. 
 
So I was mostly hoping that, for now, I might be able to just decide where I will have things that need controlling, put wires to there, and forget about it until the house is complete (maybe 8 months, maybe a year).
 
---
 
Picta, that was in fact one of the several door openers I've found that seem most "reasonable" ...comparatively.  But yeah, $500 per door; it doesn't list a mechanism to unlock the door or to recognize if the door is locked; it does not seem to integrate into any control systems.  You can either start opening the door and it takes over, or it has its own dedicated remote control that you have to make sure you don't confuse with identical remotes for other doors in the house.  I haven't found anything better.  There are other varieties that open in response to motion, or different kinds of remotes.   I've also noted this one: http://www.autoslide.com/ which has either a dedicated button or a motion sensor.
 
I haven't found any that are priced such that I could use them for (count, count, count) 12 windows and 2 sliding glass doors, plus a few swing doors. 
 
I mean, would it really be that hard to have a servo motor controlled by an arduino or something at each window?  I am a member of the local hackerspace, though my focus there has been mostly carpentry/welding projects up 'till now, but I know there are a *lot* of software/electronics focused members who like to play with challenges.  I just want to be able to hit a button and open windows (say, "open all" or "open half" or "open [specified] room"), not anything too complicated, like opening/closing on a timer, or if moisture is detected, or or or.
 
Geez, this pain is...well, a pain.  I hate the way it shuts off my brain.  I hope I've managed to be at least halfway coherent; I had some of this written before the injury.  Sorry if I rambled, or said things that didn't make sense, or otherwise included oddness.
 
Thank you kind...gentlemen?  If women are that scarce on this board, shall I assume you all are nice gentlemen?  Well, however it is; thank you nice folks.

 

[pete_c]

I think you will be fine Tessa; do baby steps in your planning.  Keep asking questions; you will get the answers here.
 
Take one piece of what you are looking to automate and think about the infrastructure you will need; get a bit of an understanding the whys and what about it. 
 
Once you have done this part a couple of times; the logic of what (you need) and why (you need it) will become faster. 
 
While doing this keep an eye on your house drawings.  There are some free tools out there where you can even do a nice graphical 3 dimensional drawing of a room or rooms which could help.
 
Also consider the "what if I could do that" scenarios as you plan your stuff (cabling et al).
 
Today playing with LED lighting.  The LED's are so bright they can be blinding somewhat.
 
When I needed to take physics in college; I basically thought it was a waste of time for my degrees. 
 
That said though I took up using (work-learning) and playing (hobby) with lasers in the late 1970's and into the 80's.