Best Home Automation Software/Controller
- Thread starter lanski
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pete_c
Guru
I DIY'd the software control for the sprinkler system but had local Rainbird sprinkler system install the sprinklers .
The prices were all over the place. That said though it was over $2000 to have mine done and some neighbors around here paid up to $4000 for their sprinkler systems.
I personally like using the weather station for Sprinkler watering scheduling et al. (weather stations prices are all over the place too).
To keep within your budget are you planning on DIYing most of your stuff ?
I have always seen that I prefer to spend the money on better hardware with me DIYing it than spending the same amount of money with a balance on the costs on the paid labor; that is me though. I would not have installed my sprinkler system; that said with the proper equipment it was installed in only a few hours by the sprinkling company.
Many folks prefer to have HA stuff installed professionally not worrying about it only seeing the end result. Some folks do not have a choice during construction; et al.
The prices were all over the place. That said though it was over $2000 to have mine done and some neighbors around here paid up to $4000 for their sprinkler systems.
I personally like using the weather station for Sprinkler watering scheduling et al. (weather stations prices are all over the place too).
To keep within your budget are you planning on DIYing most of your stuff ?
I have always seen that I prefer to spend the money on better hardware with me DIYing it than spending the same amount of money with a balance on the costs on the paid labor; that is me though. I would not have installed my sprinkler system; that said with the proper equipment it was installed in only a few hours by the sprinkling company.
Many folks prefer to have HA stuff installed professionally not worrying about it only seeing the end result. Some folks do not have a choice during construction; et al.
pete_c
Guru
Personally if you are talking new construction I would concentrate initially on some base infrastructure for HA; baby steps; wire for everything; this part is probably the least cost prohibitive but can be the most cost prohibitive post construction.
Whatever you decide and if its a DIY; you won't be finishing it in a week; take your time; piecemeal the cost some accordingly; works better with the WAF...(that is my opinion though).
Whatever you decide and if its a DIY; you won't be finishing it in a week; take your time; piecemeal the cost some accordingly; works better with the WAF...(that is my opinion though).
iostream212
Active Member
It means future proof your home by adding extra wire runs to the various rooms even if you don't have plans currently to terminate them. You don't want to tear open a finished wall to add a $10 cat5 cable when you can add it now.lanski said:
IVB
Senior Member
I don't mean to belittle or trivialize the question, but I spent probably 6 years setting up my HA system. (Barely done anything in the past 4 years as it was done and I got sick of spending every waking moment on it).
My experience is this: Both CQC & Homeseer need some setup time. But either way, the investment on the software side (in my personal case) was <10% of the total manhours on HA. Rest of it was on wiring, checking wiring, setting up devices, cursing at my wiring, running more wiring. AKA, the hardware side that neither CQC nor Homeseer can possibly do anything about.
Plus, the cost of either CQC or Homeseer was <5% of my overall expenditure (over a 6 year period).
AKA, don't worry about it, neither answer is "wrong".
My experience is this: Both CQC & Homeseer need some setup time. But either way, the investment on the software side (in my personal case) was <10% of the total manhours on HA. Rest of it was on wiring, checking wiring, setting up devices, cursing at my wiring, running more wiring. AKA, the hardware side that neither CQC nor Homeseer can possibly do anything about.
Plus, the cost of either CQC or Homeseer was <5% of my overall expenditure (over a 6 year period).
AKA, don't worry about it, neither answer is "wrong".
drvnbysound
Senior Member
Just be aware that the door locks require the use of the Zwave security class... not all Zwave devices support this. To insure that your locks work reliably you may want to add multiple devices to your network (mesh) that do support the security class to increase the confidence that your messages are delivered to the lock(s).yacobid said:
Additionally, not all dimmers/switches report their status automatically (e.g. when used manually). There are ways around this (e.g. polling), but again just something to be aware of.
Also be aware that you don't have to go with one technology for lighting and peripherals. I have read about many people that use UPB for lighting and Zwave or Zigbee for thermostats and locks. Just make sure you have enough of each device to make the appropriate mesh network and you should be good. But as "IVB" said, there isn't a wrong answer. People have been successful with Elk, HAI, DSC for security; Homeseer, CQC, Elve, Vera, Premise, ISY, etc for control. Don't let decision paralysis stand in the way of getting started (coming from someone who did just that on lighting until I went with RadioRa 2). 
David
David
If you mean it requires a neutral wire (normally white), then no, you can't use the armored sheathing. You can use the sheath for ground, but ground is not the same as neutral.yacobid said:
I don't know about UPB, but for Insteon (which is what I use), most switches require the neutral wire. If you just have a switch loop going from the fixture to the switch (only two wires at the switch), there is a two-wire switch which does not need a neutral, but it can only be used with incandescent bulbs (not CFL or LED) over 40W. Alternatively, you can put an InlineLinc or Micro Module at the fixture, and repurpose the switch loop wires to be line and neutral, and then use an Insteon SwitchLinc linked to it. Saves you from pulling new wires, costs more though. With the new Micro Modules, actually, I think you could even just put one at the fixture and leave your conventional (non-automated) switches in place (using the sense wires to detect the state of the conventional switch and then the load wires to control the fixture). That might be the least expensive solution to switch loops that does not require pulling new wires. So there are solutions. I imagine there are also solutions for UPB and Zwave, but I use only Insteon so I don't know about the others.
pete_c
Guru
Personally and relating to new construction; it was 5 years from completion and wiring that I started on the home automation route in Florida. In that 5 year time span things did change a bit.
It's a bit to consider and it is much time and effort that can be involved. You have to look at it relating to maybe your own past needs, present needs and future needs.
The advantage here is that you are doing it; you decide; it's your DIY.
This forum provides you a multitude of options from folks just like you that have asked the same questions as you relating to very similiar questions. You don't need to reinvent the wheel as its already been done.
It's a bit to consider and it is much time and effort that can be involved. You have to look at it relating to maybe your own past needs, present needs and future needs.
The advantage here is that you are doing it; you decide; it's your DIY.
This forum provides you a multitude of options from folks just like you that have asked the same questions as you relating to very similiar questions. You don't need to reinvent the wheel as its already been done.
drvnbysound
Senior Member
Yes.dgage said:Also be aware that you don't have to go with one technology for lighting and peripherals. I have read about many people that use UPB for lighting and Zwave or Zigbee for thermostats and locks. Just make sure you have enough of each device to make the appropriate mesh network and you should be good. But as "IVB" said, there isn't a wrong answer. People have been successful with Elk, HAI, DSC for security; Homeseer, CQC, Elve, Vera, Premise, ISY, etc for control. Don't let decision paralysis stand in the way of getting started (coming from someone who did just that on lighting until I went with RadioRa 2).
David
But understand that some manufacturers may have issues dealing with multiple technologies. For example, while it is possible, Elk doesn't recommend (and I'm not sure how they respond to support of) using UBP and Zwave together, and doing so requires some additional configuration.
pete_c
Guru
Here I have X10, Z-Wave and UPB connected to my HAI OPII panel. They all work fine together.
I haven't as of yet connected a Zigbee device but looking to test with the ability to fall back on the wire (Zigbee Omnistat) (still prefer the wired over wireless for thermostat connectivity).
I haven't as of yet connected a Zigbee device but looking to test with the ability to fall back on the wire (Zigbee Omnistat) (still prefer the wired over wireless for thermostat connectivity).
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