Bought a house with HAI system - totally lost!

[Keebert]

Hi everyone. We just moved into a house that has a HAI automation system and I didn't get anything from the sellers (and I'm not able to contact them) so I'm a bit lost on where to start.
 
Here's the hardware:
- Omni Pro II (I think) controllers in family room and master
- Russound audio with 2 XM radio tuners
- A number of dimmer switches (not all work reliably and I think some were replaced with ordinary switches as they appear on the controller aren't connected)
- Sprinklers
- Alarm (there are motion sensors and door/window sensors - some show errors)
- Two thermostats (the other two zones have been replaced with Next thermostats)
 
There is a PC in the cable room connected to the HAI box and there is a copy of PC Dealer Access but I don't know the password nor the Security Stamp. There is a second HAI box in the pool room which I assume is an extension because the power to the pool room comes from a different meter to the main house.
 
Looking at the Omni Pro screen, some of the controls are unlabeled so I'm not exactly sure what they do! I don't know the code to activate the alarm.
 
I've been reading a lot and it looks like now knowing the Security Stamp is stopping me from resetting the password (deleting pca01.cfg) without losing all the current programming. Can I try the defaults and in case it all goes pear-shaped, restore the previous config?
 
I'm reasonably tech-savvy but I'm stumped here and not sure what to do. I don't really want to reset everything and program from scratch as that will be a pretty steep learning curve and I don't want the light switches and sprinklers to be non-functional while I'm learning!
 
The other alternative is to hire a contractor to help but I'm guessing they are going to have to learn the system just like I would have to so I'm not sure what's going to be gained here other than speed.
 
Any suggestions as to my best plan of attack?

 

[JonW]

Try "password" as I believe that is the default password for PC Access.  If you can get the master code to the console (default 1111), then you can download the programming from the panel.  If you can do that, then you don't need the security stamp and you can do a fresh install.  If you download the config from the panel, the only thing missing from it is the comments and long description names.
 
Additional pictures of the panels and wiring would also help with people trying to help identify components and configuration of your setup.

 

[Keebert]

Thanks for the reply Jon. I tried "password" and it didn't work - they keyboard for the PC is a bit flakey (the s key is sticky) so I've ordered a replacement. I should probably just try leaving the password blank if that's at all possible.
 
When I get home, I'll take some photos.

 

[JonW]

Have you tried the steps in this KB article?
http://kb.homeauto.com/default.asp?id=391&Lang=1&SID=

 

[Keebert]

I got the password so I can access the software (version 2.4a). When I start, it says "off-line" in the bottom corner. I can open a .pca file that seems to have the settings but it still says "off-line". The download from PC option is grayed out. There is a serial connection from the PC to the main panel.
 
The light switches for the main house seem to work (although not all 100% reliably). I haven't tried the sprinklers yet. We don't have a phone line to the house so that's showing an error also.
 
I don't think the extension is working as the lights do not work and the alarm zones show errors. I assume the thermostat is also not communicating (haven't tried it).
 
I'm toying with the idea of just buying the latest version of the software as it looks to be much more user friendly.
 
Here are some photos of the main panel:

 
I noticed that the internal and external sounder grounds were left off. I put these back as well as the backup battery.

 
Extension:

 
The Russound Rack:

 

[JonW]

PC Access does not automatically connect to the panel when you start the program. You need to go to the top menu and select "Communications" > "Connect" > "Network". If you still canot connect, then you need to check that PC Access is configured to connect via the net network. You do this under "Options" > "Network". If everything is fine there, you may need to check the IP address on the system to make sure it is the same as what is set in PC Access.

Seems odd that the sounder wires were disconnected. Possibly real estate agents or someone was tripping the system, so they decided to disconnect the sounders. Hopefully it was something like that and not the fact that it was glitching and sounding on it's own!

Do you have the PCA configuration file that lists all the zones and lights? You will either need that or you will need to download the programming from the panel once you connect to it.

The "Extension" box you show is the HAI OmniPro Expansion Enclosure. This adds 16 inputs and 16 outputs to your system. They can be used for extra security zones (inputs) and for activating outputs for things like the sprinklers which is what it looks like they used it for.

 

[Keebert]

Thanks so much Jon. I will have another play tonight. Right now my plan of attack is to get the security system working and then the sprinklers. I may just replace the thermostats with all Nest so that they're all the same. I'll leave the Russound for last.
 
One thing that it a bit frustrating is that the door bell doesn't work. I suspect that it's connected to the HAI system so that the chime comes from the sounder - is this possible?
 
Do you think it's worth getting the latest software? I don't have the key for the current version so I doubt I'll be able to upgrade but the cost is not a bother if it'll help make things easier.

 

[JonW]

Getting the latest software might be worthwhile, but your HAI unit is not flash upgradeable, so the software features are going to be limited in what they will add. Also, you should be able to go to the software menus under "Help" > "Check for Updates" and have it download the latest version. Not sure if yours is too old to have that feature though. To upgrade firmware on your OPII board, you will need to purchase new ROM chips to install.

No idea on the doorbell. It is possible it is tied to the OPII, no way of knowing without tracing wires or looking at the programming.

I wouldn't be so quick to get Nest thermostats. I would get the HAI system sorted out first. I would take integrated thermostats with the OPII over Nest any day. You'll have a lot more control over them and if you get a mobile app for your phone, you'll have temperature integrated into the same app with lighting, music, security, etc.

I just looked at your first pic again and the two cables plugged in at the very top-center are the ethernet cable and an X-10 interface. Yeah, using X-10 some of your lights might not be 100% reliable. That's an area that you might want to work on down the road to go to something more reliable (like UPB).

You have a very capable system. It's unfortunate that it wasn't properly documented for you. Once you get the programming downloaded into PC Access though, you'll know a lot more about what is setup there.

 

[ano]

It looks like the firmware of your model can be done by replacing a chip. Its about $35 from a home automation retailer like Home Controls. Not hard to do.
 
It looks like your install has the EOL resistors at the panel. Not the best idea, but it does work. Overall the install looks pretty good. I think your first task is to trace out which doors and windows are which zones. The former owner might have labeled those in the panel and/or in PC access.  If you don't have documentation, you need to create it yourself. Also, if you don't have the users guide and the installers guide for the Omni Pro II, try to get a copy or download one. The copy on the Internet that you find is pretty old, but definitely better than nothing.
 
i also would recommend going with the OmniStat2 thermostats over the Nest. The panel can control these thermostats and with a remote program like HAIku on your iPhone, you can control your entire system from your phone or iPad. You can control a Nest from your phone, but its a separate application. Why not tie everything together?  Your OMNI can lower or raise your house temps when you activate your alarm. The Nest can only do that based on motion, which is nowhere near as reliable.

 

[Keebert]

Thanks for IDing the X10 - good job I didn't go out and buy HLC/UPB switches to replace those that weren't functioning! I'll definitely replace all with HLC/UPB switches once I understand the system better.
 
I think the network connection goes to the Russound. This is not something I want to mess with at the moment so I'll put that on the back burner.
 
I note that on the expansion box, only outputs are wired. This suggests to me that the sprinklers are activated through this box. The thermostat and security sensors for this room must be wired directly to the main panel.
 
My main focus is to get the security and sprinklers working. The lights are not essential for the moment as enough work for us to live without frustration!
 
I think I'll buy the new software and firmware ROM (looks to be $75 for the ROM). The new software seems to show things much better than the version I have.
 
For the first step I'll look at the configuration in the software and see what all the zones are wired to and label them all - thanks for the advice. That will definitely make life much easier in the future.
 
Once I understand what does what and get the security working, I want to make the system remote accessible. We'll be leaving on a trip soon so I want to make sure the house is secured.

 

[JonW]

The Russound should be connected via one of the 3 serial ports.  The OPII does not control other devices via the ethernet port - that is strictly for communicating to the panel from either PC Access or remote devices like ipad, phone, etc.  The ethernet cable should be plugged into a router or switch so you can access the panel.

 

[Keebert]

Thanks Jon, I really appreciate your help!
 
I tried to follow the cables last night and there were two sets of green Cat5 and I guess I got them mixed up. I'll have a look again and make sure it's going to the switch. Same with the PC - at the moment, the PC is not connected to the internet, I assumed the Cat5 was going to the Russound...

 

[DTG173]

Speaking from recent experience...(last week) This forum is awesome and the knowledge and helpfulness of members is top notch! I just did a FW chip upgrade and upgrade to the new PC Access software. I am currently in the process of changing out some of the X-10 switches for UPB, and updating my programming from initial install 12 years ago as needs have changed.
 
If you have PCAccess it will be easier to figure out what zones/outputs/units are what. I had a dedicated computer with PCAccess wired directly to the panel as it appears you do. Just note, that if you decide to wire it through a router you will need a straight through cable(normal) and not the cross over that is being used now. Just for future reference.
 
Once you figure out the PCAccess software and have the OPII online you can test zones/units/etc.. by turning them on/off and opening/closing zones and checking statuses. The PCA software upgrade is not essential, but the new format is easier to use. At least I think so.
 
As mentioned I did a firmware upgrade via chip and PCAccess software upgrade with assistance from pete_c here. It was fairly pain free, but I had issues with IP addresses and my router which still are in the "in progress" phase. I have full local access to my panel and am able to program with ease.
Here are a few manuals for your system which can be downloaded and printed. 
IMHO the OPII system is pretty capable of handling just about any homeowners security/automation/HVAC needs.
Install manual download
http://www.homeauto.com/Downloads/Products/AutomationControllers/OmniProII/haiprivate/20I00-2.pdf
 
OPII owners manual dowload
http://knightsecurityinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/hai-omnipro-ii.pdf
 
PCAccess manual download
http://www.homeauto.com/Downloads/Products/PCAccess/Model1106W2-9cPCAccess.pdf

 

[Keebert]

Thanks for the links - very helpful.
 
I had another look last night and the two green Cat5 cables that were coming from the PC and OPII were just plugged into blank slots on the patch bay. I moved them to the unmanaged switch but I need to check that now as the PC is not seeing the internet. I have a Comcast cable modem/router with 4 ports and connected one to the switch assuming that since it's unmanaged it would just pass through. Anyway, this is not a HAI related problem!
 
One thing I noticed is that the lines from fire detectors all come to a wiring hub and they are all connected together. I guess this was done so that any detector would trigger the alarm but since there is a 16 zone expansion board installed on the OPII and plenty of free spaces I wonder why they were all combined like that.
 
I didn't get a chance to connect PC Access so I'll do that tonight which should give me a better idea on the inputs. I'm pretty sure some of the detectors are faulty so once I disable them, hopefully the security will work!
 
Interestingly, the cable coming from the trunking that is labeled "Door Bell" feeds to an input marked "Temp Sens"! Maybe the cable was being used for multiple roles...

 

[DTG173]

A direct connection from PC to controller will use a "crossover cable". Using a router will require a straight through(normal ethernet) cable. There are also IP configurations which must be done to use a router. If you connect a PC to a modem or router using that "crossover" cable it will not work. (I don't think)
I am only just getting back into the "automation game" after installing and programming my system 12 years ago. I am learning all over as I go!