Cable modem location

[Ira]

My cable internet service (not used for TV) first enters my property in my shop (about 30' from the pole). There is a coupler w/ ground in my shop. Currently, it goes from there to the cable modem in my home via an underground RG6 run that is about 150'. I don't use the cable modem as a router or WAP. It is simply connected to my own router, which connects to the rest of my LAN via an assortment of switches and WAPs.
 
It's fast enough and reliable enough as is, but I was wondering if it would it be better (faster, more reliable) if I moved the cable modem out to my shop and connected it to the cable provider there, then connected it to my router in my home using a spare underground cat6 cable running between my shop and home.
 
Comments?
 
Thanks,
Ira

 

[pete_c]

I currently utilize a Motorola SB6141 here and am able to see the signal strength.  You could maybe do the same with your modem and compare the two connections.  CC did change / replace my cable a couple of years back; even though I had no issues with it.  It is not RG6 rather it is RG11/F11 and much thicker than the old RG6.  They did this update just prior to AT&T selling their services and using the old cable in our subdivision.
 

 

[elvisimprsntr]

Log into the modems config page (usually 192.168.100.1) and compare the SNR, TX/RX power, and error rates.

http://www.dslreports.com/faq/5862

If you observe some are out of acceptable limits:

1. Replace cable with quad shielded RG6Q and high quality water tight RG6Q crimp connectors. Moisture in the cable will change the impedance.
2. Move the router closer to the point of entry. Make sure the location is within operating environment specs of the modem.
3. Minimize the number of splitter/joiners the cable passes thru and do not under any circumstances pass the cable modem run thru a coax signal amplifier or 1x8 house splitter. Typical splitters introduce ~3db of signal loss per connection, and most amplifiers are only amplified in one direction and amplify noise. Use a dedicated run if you can.
4. If you must use a splitter, use high frequency (i.e. GHz) range splitters. Try to avoid splitters in walls.
5. Install 75 ohm cable terminators on unused connections which help to reduce signal reflections. It's basically a transmission line and impedance mismatches introduces signal reflections on the whole cable system.

Hope this helps.

 

[mikefamig]

Improving the cable and signal strength is a good idea whether you move the box out to the shop or not. One advantage of moving the gateway to your show is that is will give you a switch in the shop for IP devices out there.
 
Mike.

 

[RAL]

The signal strength is important, and it is either good enough, or it's not.  If it is good enough, then there is no advantage to having a stronger signal.  If the signal isn't good enough, then you will get packet errors causing packet loss, which will cause retries, and that will lower your performance (or kill it completely).
 
As @elvisimprsntr said, the place to start is by checking the signal strength on your modem's web page.  If it is in the acceptable range, then there is nothing else to worry about.  If you have a modem that doesn't allow you to see this information directly, call your cable company.  Their tech folks can see the signal quality from their end.  And if they can't tell you, then try a bandwidth test like this one, that will give you an indication of packet loss.  Packet loss measured this way isn't necessarily due to problems with your modem.  It could happen anywhere on the path to the server over the internet.

 

[Neurorad]

As an aside, is your shop ground bonded to your house ground?

If you live in an area prone to lightning strikes, you may want to consider that.

I would research that further.

 

[Ira]

Power actually goes to the shop first. That's where the meter loop and service disconnect is located. It then goes underground to the house. There are four cables running between the house and the shop (two hot, one neutral, and one ground). The neutral and ground are only bonded at the service entrance load center in the shop. The only ground rod was at the shop until a couple of years ago, when a ground rod was added where the cables exit the house. However, the neutral and ground remain separate/unbonded until they get to the main load center. I did a lot of research on why the ground at the house is necessary, but I've pretty much forgotten the scenario that it is done that way for.
 
So yeah, the house and shop grounds are bonded.