DIY sprinkler zones
- Thread starter electron
- Start date
I've really got to recommend the Rain8 controler from WGL designs I've got mine hooked up and the ability to control it from a computer or an X10 remote is really, really nice. You could probably build what they are selling if you have an EE degree or are really handy with microcontrolers, but their solutions work and is nice and flexible.
I've done mine in-ground for around $1000 for a 7-zone system, some of which are low-pressure driplines. A couple of key things I learned from doing this:
- send in your lot drawing to a couple of the big sprinkler companies to see what they recommend for sprinkler head placement. Their pipe layout and recommendations are way too conserative, but getting a good idea on where to put the heads is half the design.
- Do lots of planning up front on all the little parts you will need. Also, at least in my area, Lowe's section on pipe-parts is much better organized than Home Depot's. I spent probably 6 hours on 2 trips at Home Depot finding all the little pieces and bits that I needed!
- Use 1" pipe rather than 3/4" pipe. Much better water carrying capacity so you can do fewer zones. Remember that more zones = more money. I also think that 1" is actually easier to work with, but I really like PVC pipe for both water and for making frames for other projects
- A trencher can be rented, and while difficult to use, is much better than digging everything by hand. I rented one for a day at a cost of $230 to do all my trenching. And while it was about a 1/4 of my overall cost, it was well worth it given that my soil is very clay-like. Get some friends to help with this bit as it's a monster to use, but very effective.
- It's a big project. If you plan ahead, you may be able to install it in stages with the possible exception of the use of a 1-day trencher rental. For example, I installed everything with the wires, but didn't add the controler until the next year. Because I planned ahead and put the necessary wires in the ground, I was able to add to it later instead of either going back and adding wires or being forced to do it all in one shot. Be prepared for your lawn to be torn up for a nontrivial length of time (months even!)
- My sprinkler photos Which gives a rough sense of what the trencher can do and it's got some shots of some of the layout...
Good luck!
- Mike
I've done mine in-ground for around $1000 for a 7-zone system, some of which are low-pressure driplines. A couple of key things I learned from doing this:
- send in your lot drawing to a couple of the big sprinkler companies to see what they recommend for sprinkler head placement. Their pipe layout and recommendations are way too conserative, but getting a good idea on where to put the heads is half the design.
- Do lots of planning up front on all the little parts you will need. Also, at least in my area, Lowe's section on pipe-parts is much better organized than Home Depot's. I spent probably 6 hours on 2 trips at Home Depot finding all the little pieces and bits that I needed!
- Use 1" pipe rather than 3/4" pipe. Much better water carrying capacity so you can do fewer zones. Remember that more zones = more money. I also think that 1" is actually easier to work with, but I really like PVC pipe for both water and for making frames for other projects
- A trencher can be rented, and while difficult to use, is much better than digging everything by hand. I rented one for a day at a cost of $230 to do all my trenching. And while it was about a 1/4 of my overall cost, it was well worth it given that my soil is very clay-like. Get some friends to help with this bit as it's a monster to use, but very effective.
- It's a big project. If you plan ahead, you may be able to install it in stages with the possible exception of the use of a 1-day trencher rental. For example, I installed everything with the wires, but didn't add the controler until the next year. Because I planned ahead and put the necessary wires in the ground, I was able to add to it later instead of either going back and adding wires or being forced to do it all in one shot. Be prepared for your lawn to be torn up for a nontrivial length of time (months even!)
- My sprinkler photos Which gives a rough sense of what the trencher can do and it's got some shots of some of the layout...
Good luck!
- Mike
A follow up question:
I have timer (battery operated) which can turn on my garden hose every x hours/days etc. This timer just died, so I need something to replace this unit right away. Is there a valve which could replace this timer (connect the garden hose to the spigot), and can be controlled remotely? Thanks!
I have timer (battery operated) which can turn on my garden hose every x hours/days etc. This timer just died, so I need something to replace this unit right away. Is there a valve which could replace this timer (connect the garden hose to the spigot), and can be controlled remotely? Thanks!
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
Get on the chat now and I'll hook you up!
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
E:
Here is what I'm sending you tomorrow (June 1st). It's just a regular sprinkler control valve I had in my garage with fittings so it can be used with a regular hose. Make sure you don't have any "backflow" as this valve does not have the one-way back flow prevent valve (most in-ground sprinkler systems have this before the supply line for the control valves).
The valve takes 24 VAC and the transformer shown is from a cheap timer control that I don't need anymore now that I control my sprinklers with the WGL Relay 8 and the Ocelot (a "How-To" will be coming soon). The fuse goes in-line with one of the wires between the ac adapter and valve. Since its AC there is NO polarity to worry about.
Good luck,
BSR
Here is what I'm sending you tomorrow (June 1st). It's just a regular sprinkler control valve I had in my garage with fittings so it can be used with a regular hose. Make sure you don't have any "backflow" as this valve does not have the one-way back flow prevent valve (most in-ground sprinkler systems have this before the supply line for the control valves).
The valve takes 24 VAC and the transformer shown is from a cheap timer control that I don't need anymore now that I control my sprinklers with the WGL Relay 8 and the Ocelot (a "How-To" will be coming soon). The fuse goes in-line with one of the wires between the ac adapter and valve. Since its AC there is NO polarity to worry about.
Good luck,
BSR
Attachments
I finally had the chance of hooking this up, it works fantastic. I bought a soaker hose, ran it through my garden, so it's very 'efficient', and at the same time I can control my hose with any interface (remote, web, cell). I am considering switching from X10 to using an output on my Ocelot or Elk, but so far this works really well. Thanks!
Similar threads
