Does anyone want to recommend a good electric water heater?

[mikefamig]

I just installed a Rheem Platinum Performance with EcoNet wifi interface. A hybrid would have next choice since I live in Florida and my WH is in my garage. Lots of heat to extract, but I wasn't sure what to do about the condensation.

 
For future reference you can get a little condensate pump and hose it out a window or to a drain if oneis available.
 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Franklin-Electric-115-Volt-20-ft-Shutoff-1-30-HP-GPH-25-15-ft-Condensate-Pump-Includes-Check-Valve-and-Safety-Switch-VCMA-20ULS/203566244?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|PLA|D27E|Electrical&gclid=CIfv_aqkiMICFYZbfgodcoYA4Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[elvisimprsntr]

That's just it. No drain available. I didn't want to have a hose running on the floor of my garage.

 

[mikefamig]

That's just it. No drain available. I didn't want to have a hose running on the floor of my garage.

I use a pump on my air conditioner and another on a dehumidifier. I let the water drip into the reservoir of the pump and then run the outlet hose of the pump up to the ceiling and then route it out. The basement windows are near the ceiling so I replaced one of the window panes with plexi glass and drilled a hole in it for the hose to exit.
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

I just installed a Rheem Platinum Performance with EcoNet wifi interface. A hybrid would have next choice since I live in Florida and my WH is in my garage. Lots of heat to extract, but I wasn't sure what to do about the condensation.

That sounds like an ideal situation for a heat pump. My water heater is in a cold basement in New England. Aheat pump would make the baseent cold and rob heat from the house.
 
Mike.

 

[Desert_AIP]

RALs comments regarding efficiency of standard resistance electric water heaters are spot on.
A 12 year warranty model usually has two anodes.
Warranties are usually based on the expected anode life because most people don't check or replace the anodes.
They should be checked annually and replaced as needed (which greatly extends the life of the heater).
Choose one with as much insulation as possible, a little extra money will get you another inch or two of insulation.

 

[ricklearned]

RALs comments regarding efficiency of standard resistance electric water heaters are spot on.
......

I still believe that heat pumps are more economical based on the following comments on the Energy Star site:
http://www.energystar.gov/products/certified-products/detail/high-efficiency-electric-storage-water-heaters

 

[elvisimprsntr]

My new Rheem Pt Performance has a 12 year parts, 3 year labor from Rheem, which I bought the HD 7 year extended labor for $70. The WH only has 1 thick Mg anode.

 

[mikefamig]

This airgenerate is the quietest heat pump hybrid that I could find at 48 decibel against 50 - 60 but it also costs $2000
 
Mike.

 

[sda]

In the summer of 2013 I replaced my nat gas with a 50 gallon electric from Lowe's.  $232.20.  
 
You can spend a whole bunch of money on something fancy with a lot of things to go wrong, or you can get something cheap and simple that does the job.
 
I spent more on building a 2x6 insulated closet and piping (stainless and brass and pex) than the water heater itself.
 
One of these days I need to add some insulation on the top of the wh.  That's where most of the heat loss is.    
 
One of the things I don't like about all the new water heaters is the nanny heat traps that are buried below the pre installed nipples, which are darn near welded in.   I tried a couple of things to cut them out, but no success.

 

[Desert_AIP]

I still believe that heat pumps are more economical based on the following comments on the Energy Star site: http://www.energystar.gov/products/certified-products/detail/high-efficiency-electric-storage-water-heaters

 
Have to factor in unit cost to the equation, $1000 vs $450 (R24 insulated 12 year 55 gal).
Local electricity rates factor in as well, their numbers are based on 12 cents per kWH, my local rates are ~8 cents per kWH.
Reliability factors in as well.  A heat pump has moving parts.
 
Unit cost of $1000 with annual operating cost estimate of $220
Unit cost of $460 with annual operating cost estimate of $492
Break even at the 2 year point.  Longer with cheaper electricity rates (~2 1/2 years).
 
 
Placement of a heat pump heater can affect performance of the heater itself or the building HVAC system.
Environment plays a big role.
Several considerations for placement and proper operation.
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=heat_pump.pr_considerations

 

[pete_c]

The house before teardown in Florida used an electric hot water heater with solar panels on about 1/4 of the roof.  Water heater worked seldomly for 10 years.  Never had a problem with system from 1988-1999. (solar panels or electric hot water tank).  Pool would get too hot in the summer and just right in the winter.
 
Old home teardown and new home install (1999-2000) removed it all for one electric WH in the garage and a gas heater for the pool.
 
I went looking for some pics (1990's satellite) of the room; I have them somewhere here.

 

[RAL]

One of the things I don't like about all the new water heaters is the nanny heat traps that are buried below the pre installed nipples, which are darn near welded in.   I tried a couple of things to cut them out, but no success.

 
Why would you want to remove the heat traps?

 

[RAL]

That sounds like an ideal situation for a heat pump. My water heater is in a cold basement in New England. Aheat pump would make the baseent cold and rob heat from the house.

 

It's true, a HP water heater will make your basement colder, unless you vent it to the outside.  How much colder it gets depends on the size of your basement, how much hot water you use, the surrounding ground temperature, etc.
 
If your basement is insulated from the floor above, it shouldn't steal too much heat from the house. Rather, the majority of the heat should come from the surrounding ground.
 
In my case, my house is heated with a heat pump.  So even if I do lose some heat from the house to the basement where it gets "used" by the water heater, that is less expensive heat than if I were to use a plain electric water heater to heat the water.
 
If your house is heated with electric resistance heat, and the basement is uninsulated, then a HP water heater would probably make less sense.
 
Also, don't forget that if you want to, for the winter you can put the HP water heater in backup mode, where it just uses the electric resistance coils to heat the water.  Then use the compressor just in the warmer months.   This will lengthen the time it takes to reach the break-even point, though.
 
Not trying to sell you on a heat pump water heater, but just trying to provide all the information that can help in making a decision on which way to go.

 

[mikefamig]

Why would you want to remove the heat traps?

I've heard that the heat traps restrict flow.
 
Mike.

 

[mikefamig]

Have to factor in unit cost to the equation, $1000 vs $450 (R24 insulated 12 year 55 gal).
Local electricity rates factor in as well, their numbers are based on 12 cents per kWH, my local rates are ~8 cents per kWH.
Reliability factors in as well.  A heat pump has moving parts.
 
Unit cost of $1000 with annual operating cost estimate of $220
Unit cost of $460 with annual operating cost estimate of $492
Break even at the 2 year point.  Longer with cheaper electricity rates (~2 1/2 years).
 
 
Placement of a heat pump heater can affect performance of the heater itself or the building HVAC system.
Environment plays a big role.
Several considerations for placement and proper operation.
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=heat_pump.pr_considerations

Yes good points. I really would like to get the savings of a heat pump but I also know that it would make my basement cold and not perform as well in the winter when the ambient air temp is around 50 degrees to start with. I really don't think that one would benefit me and I'm leaning towards as $500 standard heater that I trash every 5 - 10 yerars. They do make the heat pumps with vents and if you were to vent the exhaust outside the room air would stay warmer but you are sucking heated air from the room and throwing it outside. Granted you capture much of that heat to the water but you are still drafting air from the room.
 
I've been playing devil's advocate here a bit to get responses from both sides of the debate and I'm learning from the comments posted. If I was in a warm state and could put the tank in a hot garage I say heat pump but in New England  it's benefits are not as great.
 
Mike.