I only chimed in because I have heard of people using a red jacketed 18 awg thinking it was fire wire and it was not. It could be a costly oversight.
I think I am right every other Tuesday or if there is a full moon
ELK-M1 GOLD INSTALLATION
- Thread starter gasbie
- Start date
I only chimed in because I have heard of people using a red jacketed 18 awg thinking it was fire wire and it was not. It could be a costly oversight.
I think I am right every other Tuesday or if there is a full moon
ok guys, I am in the process of installing motion sensors and occupancy sensor in part of my house such as bedroom and living room. Is this a good idea? What would you recommend? Cos I don't want a situation where my baby turns over and the motion sensor pick it up and create a false alarm. How can I do this installation without pissing off the whole family. Also, as for the motion or occupancy detector, I will be using the lutron occupancy detector to go with my grafik eye 3506. I have six zones connected to this grafik control. Do I home run the occupancy sensor to the elk-m1 gold and place each sensor in each zones or do I home run it to the grafik eye control. What am trying to do is: if the sensor detects motion, it should turn the lights on and if no motion is been sensed after 15mins it should turn the lights off. This methodology goes for every other room in the house. I want the light goes off if no motion is detected. Thanks
wuench
Senior Member
Just realize that a motion detector and an occupancy detector are two different things. Motion detectors have features designed to eliminate false alarms, so more movement is necessary to set them off. Occupancy detectors are not.
Using a motion detector to turn lights on/off you may not be happy with the longer delay, use an occupancy detector for alarm and you may get a lot of false alarms.
Wuench, thanks for the clarity. So is there any list of detectors that will work with the M1-Gold (i.e. smoke detector, motion detector) or just any will work with it? Also, do you know how many wire are in the CO/smoke detector combo. I also read that all smoke detector should be home run to the panel, will M1 gold automatically allow all smoke detectors to communicate with each other (i.e. if one goes off, others should go off too)
Monk
Active Member
Great thread - have you made a firm decision on the occupancy sensors? I found a new cm-9 occupancy sensor on ebay; made an offer for 22.50 and got it! Will be testing soon.
ALSO -
I am about to push the button (this weekend) on this buy.com wire - Has anyone bought this? How do you like it?
Buy.com 1000 feet for 49.95 free shipping.....
Quick question guys, I'm renovating the ceilings in my house so this give me access to fish wires around. I don't mind cutting holes on the wall but to a minimum. Now my concerns is: I will be running cat5E wires for certain gadgets (such as the ELK keypads, intercoms), Is it okay if I run theses wires through the same conduit I used for my networks cables? Should I be concern about interference as these are UTP cables? As for the 22/4 and 22/2 cables, can they pass through the same conduit? I'm trying to minimize how much patch I will have to do at the end of the day. Please help guys. thanks
Monk
Active Member
I have lots of Cat 5 + Coax + 22/4 running through the same holes with no apparent problem. I don't use any conduit tho -
wuench
Senior Member
Yeah most of my LV cable runs through the same chaseways and conduit up to and in my attic, etc. No issues.
wuench
Senior Member
I haven't done smokes yet. You will need to check the instructions on the CO/smoke combo but I would assume 6 wires, 2 for power, 2 for smoke relay, 2 for co relay.
Realize that the smoke alarm will set off you main M1/Siren, so you don't need to worry about it setting off all the rest. But the rest may go off too I don't know.
There are two options that I have read about on how to wire smokes. You can do a purely low voltage smoke option, running from the M1 to each smoke and they are powered by the M1. Some municipalities seem to have code issues (or maybe uneducated inspectors) with this scheme and demand 120v smoke detectors. But this is nice because the M1's battery provides power backup, no more replacing 9V batteries.
The second option is to use 120V smoke detectors that have a relay you can wire to your M1. So they are not powered by the M1. The most common one I have seen is the GE350cx. You can just wire one smoke with a relay into the system, and if any one goes off the relay gets triggered.
Lastly, I hope you are adding up all the power requirements for all of these devices powered by the M1. You need to stay under 1 amp when not in alarm, and you need to determine how big a battery (or number of batteries) to buy to support how long you want all these to stand up if a power outage occurs. If you go over 1 amp, you may require an external supply, if you look at my pics in my signature you can see the one I have. It powers my M1XEP, router, etc, so my network stays up during a power outage.
I thought based on the NEC code, if one alarm goes off, the rest should, right?
Also, how easy is it to make M1 gold to supply 120v to all smoke detectors?
can ELK-m1 gold supply 120v to smoke detector? Which smoke detector/CO detector/heat temp does the M1 supports?
Is the 22/2 and 22/4 wire for keypad (such as russound or m1 keypad) considered low voltage?
Is the 22/2 and 22/4 wire for motion detector considered low voltage?
Is the 22/2 and 22/4 wire for door sensor and window sensor considered low voltage?
Can all these wire run in the same conduit with cat5e?
It also seems that using M1 Gold to power your smoke detector can sometimes be a headache and one can easily violate the code. I think I will just stay away from that. I already have a smoke detector installed on each floor, however, am not sure if they are all interconnect. All I want is just something to alert me while am sleeping in the room if there is a smoke in the house or not.
I see that there is a glass break sensor and a glass break detector. A glass sensor sticks to the non movable side of the sliding door or window. Rite? And the glass break detector sticks to the wall? Which one is better for ELK-M1 system? Also, how many wire conductors is need for these two type of sensors? Thanks
Steve
Senior Member
There are glass 'shock sensors' and glass break detectors. The shock sensor is a piezo based device that just uses 2 wires and mounds via 2 sided tape to a fixed plane of glass and it detects the shock/movement of the banging or breaking of the glass. The Sentrol 5150 is an example. The detectors are audio based and have a microphone and they are designed to 'hear' the frequency of breaking glass. They usually mount anywhere in the room within around 20 feet of the glass to be protected. They come in various forms including wireless. The wired ones require 4 wires (2 for power and 2 for zone).
Thanks Steve. I have done alot of reading but I'm still confused about choosing one that will suit my need. I want something that won't run my electric bill up and at the same time gives me a peace of mind. The only entrance to my basement is my sliding door. I'm concern if someone breaks in. I know that the shock sensor has 2 wires and it does not require power as it has a technology that powers it. So, are these two wires for the zone only? That way I will be able to tell which sensor went off? Do you recommend Sentrol 5150 or do you others in mind? What door sensors will you also recommend. I will continue my wiring tomorrow as it is the weekend, so I want to get my pre-wiring requirement right before I get into it. Thanks
