ELK M1G Install Frustration

geogecko

Member
This is at least day 5 where I have shut this thing down and given up for the day.

After bench testing with a keypad and the M1XEP, I thought things were looking good.

Spent a couple weeks installing everything, and now the frustration begins.

I have the M1G with M1XEP in the can. After being stumped why the M1XEP was defaulting to static IP, somehow it made it into static IP mode...finally got that fixed.

Next problem was lost comm with the original keypad I bench tested. Double checked all my hard wires to the keypads, and thought it must be a wiring problem I can't see. Checked resistance of data bus, and was only 122 ohms... Got to inspecting the wire that came out the back of the can and went to the first keypad, and found that the wire had accidentally been stapled... One data bus line was open. Got that repaired, now I see around 65 ohms on the data bus.

Now, all keypads seem to be getting power and at least showing display, but cannot get any others to enroll besides the original.

The first keypad has a really bad lag time with key presses, which I did not experience with the bench test.

So this keypad is currently EOL with the ELK wireless tx/rx in the middle (used a cat 5 and wired it per the manual with 6 wires, and the data lines are then routed back to this keypad inside the can).

The other two keypads are wired on another data bus run from the M1G, with one of them EOL, and the middle one ran with a cat 5 with 6 wires like the other middle device.

Every time I enroll devices from RP, that first keypad will show up, disappear, or show erased. The model number has also displayed several different values...

I've disconnected the data bus terminal block, and tried enrolling devices with nothing connected, which deletes everything, but still shows the keypad 1, just erased.

Anyone have any ideas while I still have hair left???
 
65 ohms on the data bus wiring is too high.  The M1 manual specifies that the max resistance per wire is 25 ohms.  With Cat5 cable, 25 ohms would be the resistance of almost 1000 feet of wire.  I'm assuming you probably don't have anything even close to that length.   Cat5 24 AWG wire is 0.026 ohms per foot.  Make a rough estimate of your wire length and calculate what the total resistance should be.  Then keep searching for and fixing problems until your measurement with an ohmmeter is close to what you calculate it should be.
 
Check for shorts between the conductors.
 
Also, make sure you don't have a jumper on JP3 on the M1 if you have both data bus runs terminated at the last keypads.
 
The cat 5 wires probably total less than about 60', the other two runs are 4 conductor 22 AWG wire, probably about 150-200' total. I maybe should have clarified. I removed the quick connect terminal block connector, and measured the resistance with the EOL installed at the last two keypads (2 data bus runs from the ELK M1G), so two 120 ohm resistors in parallel should be about 60 ohms, right? There is no jumper installed on the M1G's EOL.
 
geogecko said:
I removed the quick connect terminal block connector, and measured the resistance with the EOL installed at the last two keypads (2 data bus runs from the ELK M1G), so two 120 ohm resistors in parallel should be about 60 ohms, right?
 
Ok - I misunderstood what/how you were measuring.  I thought you were measuring the end-to-end wire resistance. But if you measured things through the terminal block with the keypads and terminators in place, then 65 ohms is about right.  Still, it might be worth disconnecting all the devices and making plain wire measurements just to be sure.
 
Have you measured the voltage at each keypad and at the wireless receiver to make sure they are all getting at least 12V?  Inadequate voltage levels can cause data bus problems.
 
Next, you can try disconnecting all devices except for one at a time to see whether one bad device is causing the problem, or whether they wiring is still the source of your problems.   Just remember to terminate things properly as you connect each device in turn.
 
Guessing that the KP's aren't addressed causing a duplicate address issue. Receiver should show up unless it's not addressed.
 
Ok, will try and check individual devices.

As for addresses, did I miss how to set the addresses of the keypads? I thought the M1 assigned the keypads addresses electrically. The wireless receiver is set to address 2.
 
geogecko said:
Oh, man, RTM, right? So I need to go to each keypad and set its address by holding the * key for 5 sec?
 
Yes, you have to manually assign addresses to devices; expanders are usually done via DIP switches, but keypads are done via the menu.
 
Yes - all keypads default to address 1. You have to manually change each address. 
 
I was assuming you had done this - bad assumption on my part.   I think DEL has you on the right track.
 
So, still can't get this done. I get into the menu to change the address, and the keypad immediately reboots...

Let me guess, have to disconnect all but one keypad at a time until I have them all set to its own address within its type... Talk about stupid, give me dip switches. What a nightmare.
 
Thanks guys, everything is working now. A little note in the manual mentioning that you should power up each keypad individually to set the address would be nice...but to each his own.
 
I've had no issue powering all KPs initially, setting addresses, then performing enrollment. By default, all KPs come with an address of 1, so even if you were to power the first, and enroll... once you power the second, it would have the same address as the first.
 
Glad to hear that you got it working though. Let us know if you run into anything else...
 
geogecko said:
Thanks guys, everything is working now. A little note in the manual mentioning that you should power up each keypad individually to set the address would be nice...but to each his own.
Page 13 in the manual ;)
 
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