Getting started with Elk m1 Gold

Sorry, OT, but Charlie or anyone else think I can pass 3/4" resi-guard through a bottom/sill plate?

I'm wondering if there is a product (possibly steel) that could bridge a large hole, sustaining structural integrity.

I think I read somewhere that the hole can be up to 1/3 the diameter of the structural member - maybe that was for floor joists.
 
Adjacent stud bays ever a problem for 2 cans with doors?

What problems/issues have people had with CV enclosures?

I have two cans mounted in adjacent stud bays with doors and there is not a problem. So they must overhang less than the 1" that I mentioned above. A stud is 1.5" wide, so it must overhand approx 5/8" or 7/16". There is a small gap between the trim of the two doors. Going by memory (which we can see gets me into problems :)), I'd say the gap is approx 1/8" wide.
 
Sorry, OT, but Charlie or anyone else think I can pass 3/4" resi-guard through a bottom/sill plate?

I'm wondering if there is a product (possibly steel) that could bridge a large hole, sustaining structural integrity.

I think I read somewhere that the hole can be up to 1/3 the diameter of the structural member - maybe that was for floor joists.

I wouldn't think passing 3/4 resi through the sill would cause any problems. I've done it and I see electricians do it all the time.

CB
 
I opted for making my wall deeper, to accomodate the bathroom wall behind it (nails, etc), and to help with wire management.

'Pressure-treated' sole plate is not fastened to floor, but to existing sole plate. New wood is fastend to existing studs using metal framing brackets, with framing screws.

Surprisingly easy job.

double_stud_wall_2_smaller.jpg
 
Back
Top