Giving Up On Insteon

New construction: hardwire is the way to go. Fast, absolute control, with status feedback.

Retrofit: You currently have to live with the issues.


I have X10 in my house!!! I plan to replace it with one of the new technologies when my wife can make changes with the lighting system's PC maintenance software. :)
 
Hi all,

I became very familar with the workings of Insteon in the months I had it in my house and was developing some software for it.

I still believe Insteon is an excellent powerline protocol. If they can get everything working right, without going broke servicing RMAs. I suspect that they will be a good replacement for X10.

While I was working on software I always monitored the powerline for remote device ACKs (in text logs). In the months I was using it in my 1500 sq. ft. house I never missed an ACK for a direct command. The group commands don't strictly require device ACKs so my only indications were that all of the lights came on, that always worked. Several times I got strange commands from devices that did not exist in my network. They did not affect anything and I guessed the cause was a PLC 'burp'. My PLC timers didn't always happen. I associated that with CFLs, maybe the noise kept the PLC too busy to issue the timer commands.

I jumped on the Insteon band wagon early and became bitter with the apparent 95% marketing and 5% customer support model. I'm still reading posts in other forums where people seem unable to get help from customer support for something as simple as getting a PLC to run with the Smarthome timer software.

I am currently using Z-Wave and am happy. Compared to Insteon, Z-Wave is a simpler protocol. Insteon does have the ability to send encrypted messages in the extended data packets. Unfortunately, they have a lot of hardware in the field that will not support that, without a firmware upgrade. Currently Insteon is slow, the best I ever got for a ON/ACK cycle was 750 milliseconds. Most of the speed is lost with the PC to PLC communications. I understand that they are working on a high speed PLC. For Insteon, time will tell.

The things about Z-Wave that I appreciate are:
1. No computer required. A Z-Wave wireless remote will control everything I want and will reliably run timers.
2. The hardware is made by different manufacturers. A little competition is a good thing. Monopolys are a bad thing.
3. Sometimes simpler is better.

Z-Wave hardware is still evolving as is the control software. All of the 'bells and whistles' are not in place yet. I have happily been controlling my house with Z-Wave for over a month now and have no complaints other than some minor cosmetics. My first month with Insteon was marked with three failed hardware devices and 'little bright white' LEDs flashing all over my house every time a powerline command went by. And things were not looking to improve any time soon.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Ken
 
upstatemike, what revision is you latest switchlinc?

I had a v1.2 before which gave me the same issues. I just received a v1.3 in the mail but haven't had time to configure it yet.

Thanks,
Johnny
 
KenM said:
I have happily been controlling my house with Z-Wave for over a month now and have no complaints other than some minor cosmetics.
Hi KenM

What are the cosmetic issues you are refering to? Wich brand of switches are you using?

Thanks.
 
johnnynine said:
Has anyone received a SwitchLinc Dimmer with a version greater than 1.2?
Latest Versions received by me

Keypad 1.3
Dimmer 2.2 (Second version with the new resistors, can tell by larger print on ID sticker)
Relay 2.1 (Although I swear I have installed a 2.2)
 
Herdfan said:
johnnynine said:
Has anyone received a SwitchLinc Dimmer with a version greater than 1.2?
Latest Versions received by me

Keypad 1.3
Dimmer 2.2 (Second version with the new resistors, can tell by larger print on ID sticker)
Relay 2.1 (Although I swear I have installed a 2.2)
Really 2.x? My dimmer is v1.2. I wonder if they fixed the quick press and release issue where it ignores your toggle click if you are too quick. Happens to me all the time.
 
Herdfan said:
Relay 2.1 (Although I swear I have installed a 2.2)
Yep, I do have a 2.2 relay.

Johnnynine,

Are you referring to Insteon Switchlinc V2 Dimmers? Even my earliest ones from last July/August when they came out were 2.0's
 
Herdfan said:
Herdfan said:
Relay 2.1 (Although I swear I have installed a 2.2)
Yep, I do have a 2.2 relay.

Johnnynine,

Are you referring to Insteon Switchlinc V2 Dimmers? Even my earliest ones from last July/August when they came out were 2.0's
Okay I'll double check mine, I may have forgotten the #.
 
RonX

As far as cosmetics go:

The Intermatic HA06 dimmer paddles are just a shade off of white so that an exact match with the cover is impossible. It doesn't look bad, just a little different. I do understand that this is being changed. The Home Pro paddles make an exact color match with available cover plates.

Ken

Edit (added):
I am using both HomePro and Intermatic dimmers.
 
Upstatemike - I've got about 80 Insteon devices installed and my two biggest complaints so far have been the flicker/flutter situation and the lack of software. I'm hoping the Houselinc software makes the management of a larger installation bearable. Are you considering using Houselinc?

I agree with your point that the lights on the Keypadlinc need to be in sync with the assocaited loads. Taking your example to the next level, what if you have one key controlling a number of loads (i.e. several swithclincs) instead of just one, should the LED be lit if any of the loads linked to that key are on (and the others are off) or only if they are all on?
 
I have an Icon relay switch set up to turn on my garage lights whenever the interior door to the garage is opened. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt but most of the time it doesn't.

I did a little experimenting since it is in eyeshot of a keypad. Everytime I open the door the keypad shows the zone as not secure with no exceptions so I know the ball switch and the wiring to the ELK is fine. Yet most times the light does not come on. The rule only tell the light to go on for 10 mins and it is the only instruction in the rule. So apparently the command from the ELK to the switch is not making it through. It is about 3 feet or so from one of the RF link repeaters but not on the same circuit.

In my opinion this should work 99% if the time not 40% of the time.

Anyone have any ideas why it doesn't work (besides it not being UPB or Zwave)?
 
Digger said:
I have an Icon relay switch set up to turn on my garage lights whenever the interior door to the garage is opened. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesnt but most of the time it doesn't.

I did a little experimenting since it is in eyeshot of a keypad. Everytime I open the door the keypad shows the zone as not secure with no exceptions so I know the ball switch and the wiring to the ELK is fine. Yet most times the light does not come on. The rule only tell the light to go on for 10 mins and it is the only instruction in the rule. So apparently the command from the ELK to the switch is not making it through. It is about 3 feet or so from one of the RF link repeaters but not on the same circuit.

In my opinion this should work 99% if the time not 40% of the time.

Anyone have any ideas why it doesn't work (besides it not being UPB or Zwave)?
Can you manually control the garage light from your Elk panel? It sounds like a communications problem between the PowerLinc attached to your Elk and the Garage switch.
 
dbaustin said:
Upstatemike - I've got about 80 Insteon devices installed and my two biggest complaints so far have been the flicker/flutter situation and the lack of software. I'm hoping the Houselinc software makes the management of a larger installation bearable. Are you considering using Houselinc?

I agree with your point that the lights on the Keypadlinc need to be in sync with the assocaited loads. Taking your example to the next level, what if you have one key controlling a number of loads (i.e. several swithclincs) instead of just one, should the LED be lit if any of the loads linked to that key are on (and the others are off) or only if they are all on?
I have played with HouseLinc a little but mainly use PowerHome.

I think the only way to resolve the LED question is to treat the switches as a group with everything cross-linked together so you never have a situation where one switch in the group is on when another one is off.

If that is not practical in your situation, consider using a ControLinc instead of a KeypadLinc so you don't need to worry about the LED. According to the ControLinc box there is going to be a wall-mount adapter option for it. I expect that will be available for pre-order any day now?
 
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