HAI OmniPro II with relay and Liftmaster 8550 garage door opener

[BraveSirRobbin]

What would be really cool to do also Steve is to get another Flash2Pass transmitter and try to simulate the high beams flashing twice with an Elk relay. I don't know if that unit is detecting voltage (easy) or current (slightly harder) in the line to the high beams, but it would be an interesting project.

Also, FYI for others, HERE is the garage door remote How-To Steve mentioned above.

 

[Steve]

I'll leave that project to someone else . Todd linked to your how-to in post 2. I referred to some other threads on this subject but didn't search for the links.

 

[Nifield]

thanks everyone for your input, i decided to just go with the non lcd version of the wall control and another model of the liftmaster for ease of integration. i'll let you know how it is when i get it all wired up. thanks again

 

[Burtus]

There are ways with the smart keypad...can you solder?

IMG_0942_2.jpg

Hi Gatchel
would you list the wire connections there. I need to know what two wires will trigger the 880LM smart control panel to close and open. I'm hooking up a keypad / card-swipe that can do normally closed or normally open. I assume this application will use the normally open. If you have a schematic of the 880lm smart control panel....that could be good too.
Many Thanks!
Burt

 

[gatchel]

880LM not so much, unfortunately.
 
Red and Black=Open Close Button
Green and White=Light Button
Brown and Blue=Lock Button
 
The 880LM should be just as easy to determine assuming they are using through-hole components. SMT components will be more difficult but still not impossible depending on your soldering ability.

 

[Burtus]

880LM not so much, unfortunately.
 
Red and Black=Open Close Button
Green and White=Light Button
Brown and Blue=Lock Button
 
The 880LM should be just as easy to determine assuming they are using through-hole components. SMT components will be more difficult but still not impossible depending on your soldering ability.

Thanks much gatchel. What model number is that one. Hopefully I can put one along side the 880 and still have enough juice from the 8550 to run em both.

 

[gatchel]

I think you are limited to one "smart" device per operator. Liftmaster will have to confirm. I know the LM3800 can only handle one smart panel. The LM3800 uses a 398LM, I believe.

 

[askj]

Hi,
    I also have liftmaster 8550 and 880LM wall control module and I want to control my garage door with the HAI, has this setup work for anyone?
Thanks

 

[Jaytee]

Just installed a new liftmaster and they cannot be opened with a simple contact closure on the wall switch.  If you decide to go with using a remote, you can do like i did to combat the battery going dead problem.  I had pulled CAT5 from the OP2 to my opener, so I used two of the lines for the relay and two for 12v to the opener.  I placed the remote inside the opener and soldered the relay wires to the switches on the remote board.  I bought a 12v to 3v voltage reducer on Ebay for less than $10 and soldered it in line at the opener and removed the 3v battery all together.  Works great and no more worries about the battery going dead.

 

[gatchel]

Use a remote or solder to the 880LM looks like your best options.

 

[McKinneySmart]

Just installed a new liftmaster and they cannot be opened with a simple contact closure on the wall switch.  If you decide to go with using a remote, you can do like i did to combat the battery going dead problem.  I had pulled CAT5 from the OP2 to my opener, so I used two of the lines for the relay and two for 12v to the opener.  I placed the remote inside the opener and soldered the relay wires to the switches on the remote board.  I bought a 12v to 3v voltage reducer on Ebay for less than $10 and soldered it in line at the opener and removed the 3v battery all together.  Works great and no more worries about the battery going dead.

Ditto.
 
I did exactly this on project just a week ago.  3 OHDs.  So I used a 3-button Liftmaster 893LM remote.  Soldered 3 pair of a CAT5 to the buttons.  One pair for the power.  Removed battery.
 
I actually placed the customized remote in the OP2 enclosure and I was still able to control the doors.

 

[Fearless]

My solution was to forget about Liftmaster. I went with Genie IntelliG 1200/SilentMax 1200. They still use contact closure to operate. You can even keep the contact closed to simulate the lock feature.