Lagerhead
Active Member
Well if we had known from the start that you were interested in "Remoe Power control", this could have gone a lot quicker.
(A question about pronunciation -- REMOE, is the accent on the first or the second syllable?)
M1 Controllable Powerstrip?
- Thread starter chrishet
- Start date
(A question about pronunciation -- REMOE, is the accent on the first or the second syllable?)
I have one of those (a slightly different revision), got it for 60 bucks when Pacific Geeks had them. It works well.
It's correctly spelled, you just assumed it was English, but it's "Chilish" (Chinese English derivative).
The unit I have tries to phone home to China (no kidding here), but my darn firewall keeps blocking it.
Brian
Lagerhead
Active Member
Oh, ok, thanks for the clarification. I understand now that the accent is on the second syllable -- reMOE.
Sorry, I quoted the wrong poster. I can only speak to the spelling, not the pronunciation!Oh, ok, thanks for the clarification. I understand now that the accent is on the second syllable -- reMOE.
Brian
One of the problems I am having with the serial control approach is that I would not be able to tell if a device is on/off, like I can with the RM's Lighting tab. This will be an issue for me when remote....so I am going to attempt this with output controls as previously recommended. With the Output tab on RM I will be able to see that a device is on or off and will be able to control its state....obviously I can control this with rules as well.
The price per controlled outlet is an issue and I could not find a commercially available device cheap enough so I am going to DIY.
I found these D2410-B's on Ebay for $6 ea
http://www.crydom.com/en/Products/Catalog/s_1.pdf
I'll either use a separate 12v power supply or the Elk's VAUX as a power source and an ELK ELK-M1RB. I'll post pics back later once I get a test strip made, but here is the basic design I will be following:
http://www.cartertools.com/tbbrb.html
With the outlet, wiring, box, LED's..I should be able to keep the price well below $20 for each outlet.
The price per controlled outlet is an issue and I could not find a commercially available device cheap enough so I am going to DIY.
I found these D2410-B's on Ebay for $6 ea
http://www.crydom.com/en/Products/Catalog/s_1.pdf
I'll either use a separate 12v power supply or the Elk's VAUX as a power source and an ELK ELK-M1RB. I'll post pics back later once I get a test strip made, but here is the basic design I will be following:
http://www.cartertools.com/tbbrb.html
With the outlet, wiring, box, LED's..I should be able to keep the price well below $20 for each outlet.
Making your own is definitely the more cost effective way to go. I have used similar SSR components in the past for a go kart track lighting control system. They work well using a DC control. If you are controlling heavy loads make sure to overrate your devices a bit or have the proper heat sink attached if required by the manufacturer.
Lagerhead
Active Member
Just FWIW, could be a solution for similar projects --
Here is a PLC (X-10) controlled 8-relay box.
http://www.resconsys.com/products/relay/8%20Channel.htm
RCS (the mfr) says the contacts are rated only for 30VDC.
