Man Door Opener

[N49atv]

Well I am considering putting a man door opener on my mud room door into the garage. By code, this has to be a automatic closing door (fire code), im thinking of putting a door similar to a handicapped door (sorry if its not PC, not sure what else to call it), does the automation world have one? Or am I just gonna splice into the open circuit, and parallel an output?

This would help when carrying in groceries from vehicle in garage, into walk through pantry (just inside mud room), beats a handfull of groceries trying to open door every time.

 

[Frunple]

Just curious, what is a "man" door opener?
I know what you want, just don't understand what you are calling it.

http://www.power-access.com/Model-2300-door-opener.html

 

[KenN]

In industrial design, a mandoor is the common term used for a standard sized, hinged door for people. That's just because there are many types of doors that can be used in a large industrial site so some type of reference is needed to distinguish them.

It is not a special door from 1920's nightclubs, reaching back to a day when there were separate entrances for "gentlemen" and "women with escorts".


Kn.

 

[tmbrown97]

I did a quick google search, and the result was a handful of options ranging about $800-$1500 for a system. You need something to release the latch, and to open the door.

The ones I saw used pretty typical triggering devices - either a button, which could be hooked into any HA system, or a liftmaster-compatible remote... again, easy enough to automate.

If you go through with this, please do post the results - I think people could enjoy it.

 

[roussell]

I've thought about this - I think if I were doing it I'd use a mag lock or electric strike plate to actually lock the door, a spring/pneumatic something to close it and some type of pneumatic or screw-drive ram to open it. My preference would be a pneumatic cylinder (diy PVC ram or bicycle air pump) that would push against the inside of the door to open it after the locking mechanism was released. Allowing a spring to close the door slowly will keep it from accidentally turning into a finger-shearing device and the air in the cylinder could be adjusted so that 'just enough' pressure is used to open the door, but could be over-ridden with manual force if you had to close to the door in an emergency (being chased by zombies, for example...)

I've seen on the 'net examples of people modifying the silver/black tube-style door closers to be pneumatic cylinders. Could be a fun project...

Terry

 

[Del91574]

Since you're considering the opener, and was suggested above, a locking mechanism, you're going to need a few things in addition.

With a mag or strike and opener, you're going to need a TDM (time delay module) such as those made by MS-Sedco so you can get a proper sequencing on the door and unlock it, otherwise bent parts and burnt motors/locks is going to be the result. You can have a push plate/paddle on the unsecure side, then enable it via a RBSN or you could simply have the sequence start when the output on whatever controller is triggered.

In addition, I'd recommend a push plate/paddle on the inside (secure side).

We have somewhere in the neighborhood of 1K of these installed on one of our sites in various configurations.

 

[N49atv]

Never thought about the lock, suppose it should be a locking door. It's not my outside man door, it's between garage and house. I just figured a commercial opener, with 6 wires ran to it, 2 for power, and a 4c22 to parallel to the open button, and the hold switch, so i could open and also have it stay open. Some things to consider. I'm wiring for it no matter what, but would think its a great addition for the wife, and for the kids.

 

[Del91574]

For LV you would need 2 conductors (22 awg is fine) from each push paddle to the header, 18/2 from the lock to the header and recommended would be 4/18 from the host controller (assuming security or similar system) and the rest would be done in the header using a RBSN and TDM and the controller would have it's appropriate HV power in the header. The door itself would have the safeties as part of the opener itself. Most openers have a physical switch on the header itself for a hold open, although a keyswitch could be installed remotely, depending on if the header is on the secure side or not.

I would not recommend using a manual locking method unless the push paddles (or other opening method) can be physically disabled....good way to bend and break parts, in addition to burning out a motor.

 

[N49atv]

Yeah i figure 2c22 for status (via mag switch), 2c22 for open pulse (simulate momentary push button from automation, in parallel with physical push buttons), and a 2c22 to go in parallel with hold open (via dry contacts of an output from the HA), to simulate a manual switching (key or toggle, dont matter). And 2c14 for power (via loomex to header).

 

[tmbrown97]

When I did that brief search for residential door openers, most of them had provisions for the latch release.

 

[cyhome]

Our similar door jamb has a magnetic seal, and stays shut without a latch. I took off the latch and left the handles on, and then put in a residential door closer like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Tell-Mfg-11184-Residential-Closers/dp/B000BD6AN2/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1344014586&sr=1-5&keywords=door+closer+residential

Not very high-tech, but affordable. Of course, only "automatic" going into the house from the garage (just push on the door with foot or shoulder)...and the door shuts behind you. Doesn't help going out to the garage, but most of our "hands-full" motion is coming in the house.

If more security was necessary, you could put a powered deadbolt and open that somehow via Homelink or something similar. The closer has worked well for over 10 years. It can hold the door open too if you need to.

Matt

 

[Del91574]

When I did that brief search for residential door openers, most of them had provisions for the latch release.

Usually provided by the hardware company/closer guys, a MS Sedco TDM is the part they put in the header, about $20