MONITOR 15" LCD PLANAR TOUCHSCREEN Wall Mount

Terry,
He's using a quad output video card. So he can have upto 4 monitors attached. "I'm using a Matrox G200 Quad Video Card and running multiple instances of MainLobby"

The only problem would be if 2 or more people were "poking" at the same time.
 
But I think the question is, if all four displays are showing a different screen how does it know what to do with any "poke?" Which screen is the poke in reference to?

Unless there's something special going on, this would only work if all four showed the same thing. In that case, you could use a video splitter instead of the 4-output card.
 
Guys,

4 instances of MainLobby could be installed in say Cinemar1, Cinemar2, Cinemar3 and Cinemar4 folders. Each one can be set to open up on each monitor based on your x coordinates.

ELO's drivers support multiple touchscreens. So each screen can be touched. I'm using 2 Cat5e for sending both serial and VGA signals (VGA balun from MuxLabs).

Thanks to separate instances of MainLobby, each screen can show whatever it wants independent of the others. They DO NOT SHOW the same thing.

What's cool about this is you can also utilize our Video Capture Cards and display them right in MainLobby on any connected client.

There could potentially be problems if multiple users where pressing at the "EXACT" same time. Otherwise, I don't foresee any issues. The chances of someone interacting and pressing the screen at that instant is pretty slim.
 
We do this at work a lot. The key to getting a handle on this is remembering that the desktop is "spread" over the 4 monitors as though it is one. So if you drag any app to the upper right corner of the desktop it could in reality be on a separate monitor than an app in the lower left corner of the desktop. So the "poke" is somewhere on the desktop depending on what monitor received the poke. The only problem I have is when I leave an app on the right monitor and I remote desk top to the machine. I can't get to the app unless I change the RDP session size.
 
Rupp did a great job of explaing it.

One thing Cinemar will be developing is a separate app that runs behind and is spread across each monitor. A button on that screen will allow you to launch your specified MainLobby by just clicking on it. So should you need to restart due to upgrades, it will be very easy. It's also possible we could automate this entirely from the Server side. We already allow you to close any client from MLServer. Opening one with this app may not be all that difficult either. :(
 
I'm using 2 Cat5e for sending both serial and VGA signals (VGA balun from MuxLabs).

Mario,
What about the RS232 for touchscreen? Are you running it parallel with the CAT5?
Also - Do you have a special computer for it or it is the same computer that is running your home automation software (homeseer perhaps :( )?


Marty
 
This 4 monitor setup sounds a lot like the red-radio product discussed a while back, with each screen showing one part of a larger virtual screen.
 
Guy,

This is different than Red Radio. Red Radio is more like RDPing to the same computer. The advantage of the RedRadio option is that it has another machine in the mix to help with processing power at each display.

I don't recommend this, but I actually have a factory Dell machine running MLServer along with 16 comport devices that Cinemar supports using an Edgeport USB to 16 serial port device. Things like Elk, 2 Cav's, Insteon, Zwave, Upb, etc. In addition, I added the Matrox G200 card to my machine to enable multiple displays and touch screens. I will eventually be moving it to one of our own Cinemar servers:
http://www.cinemaronline.com/servers.html

One tidbit, ELo drivers don't like seeing two touch screens on an Edgeport USB>Serial device. So I picked up a single USB > Serial device at RadioShack for about $35. Problem solved.

In any professional install, I would separate the server from the display system. A separate cat5 is run for serial connection to each touch screen. Then a DB9 connector is made to convert to a serial connection. Another cat5 cable was run to deliver the VGA signal over VGA baluns by Muxlabs. Make sure to set your monitor refresh to 60 kHz.

Hope this helps.
 
Cool, thanks Mario for the explanation. I was worried about multiple "pokes", but as you stated; the chances of them happening at the same exact time are slim. I've been working on a similar thing under Linux, but with complete separation (I'd still LOVE to see a Linux ML Client :( ) I have 1 Linux PC running with 3 completely separate monitors/keyboard/mouse stations. All function independently of one another and the kernel will supposedly support up to 10 such stations. I'm going to get a few of these monitors to play around with and see how well they tie in with what I'm doing...

Terry
 
Marrio your in-wall installation looks great.

I am going to get a few of them to install in-wall also. I have a couple of questions.

I have a bunch of cat6 cable unshielded but the description of the Muxlabs balum recomends shielded cable, should I get some cat 5e shielded instead?

What have you found to be a good height for the inwall touchscreens?

Jim
 
roussell,
A thin client is not too far out of the question as long as the system supports a browser with Flash support. ;)

djsl,
Thanks for the kind words. Not sure on what affects the wrong cable would have. My guess is you may get flickering or interference with unshielded cable.

I based the height on who was going to use it. Which in my case is myself and my wife. I also wanted it out of reach for smaller nieces and nephews. :)
I ended up putting the very top of the screen at 63" from the ground which has worked out great.
 
mcascio said:
roussell,
A thin client is not too far out of the question as long as the system supports a browser with Flash support. :)

djsl,
Thanks for the kind words. Not sure on what affects the wrong cable would have. My guess is you may get flickering or interference with unshielded cable.

I based the height on who was going to use it. Which in my case is myself and my wife. I also wanted it out of reach for smaller nieces and nephews. :D
I ended up putting the very top of the screen at 63" from the ground which has worked out great.
Hi Mario:

how thick is the display without the casing? I wanted to try your suggestion of mounting everything to a piece of plywood (touchpanel, frame) then mounting the plywood to the wall.. but wouldn't it stick out too much?

I love how useful the touchpanel is and will probably buy 2 more for around the house.. Just need to figure out a nice way to mount them.

thanks
 
I just bought one to install in the wall. I took it apart and the total depth is 2". The outside diameter is 14.5 x 11.125, and that part is 1" thick. In the back there is another part that is smaller it is 11.5 x 9.5, and that part is 1" thick. The connectors are on the left bottom corner.
The whole unit is well enclosed, there are no wires or components sticking out. I think it would be ok to mount the way it is in the wall, it is only 12v that goes to it anyway. I will probably end up making some kind of enclosure for it.

Jim
 
djsl said:
I just bought one to install in the wall. I took it apart and the total depth is 2". The outside diameter is 14.5 x 11.125, and that part is 1" thick. In the back there is another part that is smaller it is 11.5 x 9.5, and that part is 1" thick. The connectors are on the left bottom corner.
The whole unit is well enclosed, there are no wires or components sticking out. I think it would be ok to mount the way it is in the wall, it is only 12v that goes to it anyway. I will probably end up making some kind of enclosure for it.

Jim
Jim: please take lots of pictures! Are you installing it in a wall that's already dry-walled? Will you have access to the back of the wall? How far apart are your studs?

thanks
 
I am in the middle of renovation in my house. I got the monitor so I can plan ahead for the install.
When I get to the install I will post pics, but it wont be for a while. As for the locations, one will go in a standard stud opening of 14.5, and the other will go in a 13" between stud opening. With the 14.5 the entire screen will fit between studs and as for the other one I am going to have to shave of 1/2 of the face of the studs to fit it flush.

Jim
 
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