monitoring fire sprinkler system

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I'm sorry, I'm lost guys with all the terms you have mentioned on your post.

I wish someone here can sends a modified diagram of how I will connect it to ELK. I think, Sir Robert did that too in real simple words(put Left tamper to 2200 ohm, then the other end of resistor would go in to NC, and so on

I will read your post multiple times until I get it.

Thanks guys.

 

[rfdesq]

I vote for Diggers plan. Isolate the 110 by using a relay to give you a dry contact closure. Better safe than sorry.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I vote for Diggers plan. Isolate the 110 by using a relay to give you a dry contact closure. Better safe than sorry.

Can you please guy me on what I need to buy? By the way, I have additional information here in case it will be helpful. I saw embossed text on the terminals.

 

[rfdesq]

Any electricians here please jump in if I'm wrong. I think what you are looking at in the above picture is the switched hot leg of the circuit going to the strobe/bell. There should be a green ground wire and a white neutral wire somewhere up the line. One side, let's say the blue is really on and if you measured the voltage between the white and blue wire you would get 110 volts. The orange wire let's say goes to the strobe/bell. If you measure the voltage between the white and orange wire without water flowing you should get zero volts AC. If water is flowing you would get a switch closure which would connect the blue to the orange wire. If you were to purchase a 110 Volt AC relay with a form C contact ouput you should be good to go. The relay will probably have three wires, green for ground, white for neutral, and either black, red, or some other color for the hot leg. If you hook white to white, green to green, and whatever the other color is on the relay to the dead i.e. the orange or blue wire in your picture that goes to the strobe/bell that should complete the wiring. Now, when the circuit is closed by water running through the pipes it will apply voltage to your strobe/bell and also your 110 volt relay. Use the form c contacts on the 110 volt relay to control a zone on the M1. Make any sense?

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I'm sorry Robert. This is not my forte but I will do my best to follow your instructions. I will also contact AO to give me a link where I can buy the AC relay. Martin, jump in please.

For the green, I see a green screw but there is no wire connected to it.

And also, I have a tester, where should I point the knob if testing AC?

 

[rfdesq]

And also, I have a tester, where should I point the knob if testing AC?

Point the knob to AC volts. The indicator may have also have a sine wave. Be careful 110 volts AC bites hard.

 

[Digger]

You probably have an outlet and an outlet box lying around (if not Home Depot and Lowes are everywhere). You can buy a 12 Vdc wall wart and a relay online or at a Radio Shack. That would be almost everything you would need.

I was looking to make it safe, easy, and user friendly (as far as your disconnect for testing etc).

If you are not familiar with 110 V wiring I suggest getting assistance. Always err on the side of caution.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

And also, I have a tester, where should I point the knob if testing AC?

Point the knob to AC volts. The indicator may have also have a sine wave. Be careful 110 volts AC bites hard.

I'm ok, I get shock sometimes with 220v back in my native country.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

You probably have an outlet and an outlet box lying around (if not Home Depot and Lowes are everywhere).

Are you saying the outlet on the wall?

You can buy a 12 Vdc wall wart and a relay online or at a Radio Shack. That would be almost everything you would need.

I'll go to RS today and ask about it.

I was looking to make it safe, easy, and user friendly (as far as your disconnect for testing etc).

If you are not familiar with 110 V wiring I suggest getting assistance. Always err on the side of caution.

I've done some 3way switching by following the home depot book. As long as I follow your instructions folks, I should be fine

 

[Digger]

I meant a new outlet and an new outlet box. My suggestion is to mount an outlet near the waterflow and have it switched just like the bell and strobe. When water flows the outlet is switched on and the relay energizes and trips the M1 into alarm.

You should label the outlet by the way so knowbody plugs a vacuum in it etc.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Is this wall-wart correct, http://www.flaminsystems.com/catalog/item/...729/1985417.htm

and also, can you send me a picture link for the relay. It helps me a lot when I see it. Thanks.

Yes, I will add a new outlet.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Any electricians here please jump in if I'm wrong. I think what you are looking at in the above picture is the switched hot leg of the circuit going to the strobe/bell. There should be a green ground wire and a white neutral wire somewhere up the line. One side, let's say the blue is really on and if you measured the voltage between the white and blue wire you would get 110 volts. The orange wire let's say goes to the strobe/bell. If you measure the voltage between the white and orange wire without water flowing you should get zero volts AC. If water is flowing you would get a switch closure which would connect the blue to the orange wire. If you were to purchase a 110 Volt AC relay with a form C contact ouput you should be good to go. The relay will probably have three wires, green for ground, white for neutral, and either black, red, or some other color for the hot leg. If you hook white to white, green to green, and whatever the other color is on the relay to the dead i.e. the orange or blue wire in your picture that goes to the strobe/bell that should complete the wiring. Now, when the circuit is closed by water running through the pipes it will apply voltage to your strobe/bell and also your 110 volt relay. Use the form c contacts on the 110 volt relay to control a zone on the M1. Make any sense?

I've been trying my best to understand it. Here is my plan. Can I open the junction where the 2 wires from the water flow valve came from? I will introduce new wires from that junction then create a new outlet.

 

[rfdesq]

I am having no luck finding a 110 volt AC coil control relay with dry contacts.

 

[WayneW]

I am having no luck finding a 110 volt AC coil control relay with dry contacts.

RadioShack Catalog #: 275-217
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...ctId=2049721&cp

 

[Digger]

The wall wart is overpriced (by far). You can find them for about $5.00 online and about $15 or so at Radio Shack. The rating is fine but you picked a switchmde design which is more expensive and not required in this application (it will rarely be on and its a straightforward 110 V circuit).

Let me check when I get home. If I have an extra one I will give it to you for the cost of shipping (about $4 or $5). I hate to see places charge a fortune for something that costs about $1 to make. I used to get them for almost nothing when I was in the business.