monitoring fire sprinkler system

[alarmguy]

For information to us all, well I would like to know . What Make & Model is the flow valve (Potter, System Sensor etc). The pic you have posted, well if I had a camera with me I could show you a twin to your flow valve. Today we Installed and Ademco 5140XM Fire Alarm Digital Transmitter to a POTTER FLOW VALVE. The flow circuit wires the same as an ELK M1. It is wired as the diagram in your pictue that shows Fire Alarm hookup. This install has an outside 110 Volt Bell and a inside Bell/Strobe unit. The Double Pole - Double Throw Micro Switch on ther Flow Valve acts as 2 seperate sets of contacts and are isolated from each other. In my opinion (for what it's worth) a simple task is being made into a hard job . The same wiring has also been applied to a recent (UL FM CMF AA CS) install in a Babies R Us we did with a Radioics UL/FM FIRE/BURG panel.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I am having no luck finding a 110 volt AC coil control relay with dry contacts.

RadioShack Catalog #: 275-217
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...ctId=2049721&cp

Thanks Wayne. I'll buy this tonight when I get home. So is this the only one I need to buy other than the wall outlet and outlet box?

By the way, where do I mount this?

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

For information to us all, well I would like to know . What Make & Model is the flow valve (Potter, System Sensor etc). The pic you have posted, well if I had a camera with me I could show you a twin to your flow valve. Today we Installed and Ademco 5140XM Fire Alarm Digital Transmitter to a POTTER FLOW VALVE. The flow circuit wires the same as an ELK M1. It is wired as the diagram in your pictue that shows Fire Alarm hookup. This install has an outside 110 Volt Bell and a inside Bell/Strobe unit. The Double Pole - Double Throw Micro Switch on ther Flow Valve acts as 2 seperate sets of contacts and are isolated from each other. In my opinion (for what it's worth) a simple task is being made into a hard job . The same wiring has also been applied to a recent (UL FM CMF AA CS) install in a Babies R Us we did with a Radioics UL/FM FIRE/BURG panel.

Yeah, I actually took a picture of the red housing last night. But maybe I was so sleepy, I forgot to upload that one file. Once I get home, I will upload it.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

The wall wart is overpriced (by far). You can find them for about $5.00 online and about $15 or so at Radio Shack. The rating is fine but you picked a switchmde design which is more expensive and not required in this application (it will rarely be on and its a straightforward 110 V circuit).

Let me check when I get home. If I have an extra one I will give it to you for the cost of shipping (about $4 or $5). I hate to see places charge a fortune for something that costs about $1 to make. I used to get them for almost nothing when I was in the business.

BAM!

 

[Digger]

Alarmguy


If there are two sets of isolated dry contacts you can make this a lot easier I agree as long as you provided seperation of the Ac and Low voltage wiring and you provide low voltage wiring with suitable insulation.

Maybe to make the sure that the wire is acceptable use regular 300 V rated THHN type wire to the dry contacts and then go to a splice box and then run regular alarm wire form there?

That would be the cheapest. You also need an EOL resistor across the contacts.

 

[rfdesq]

RadioShack Catalog #: 275-217
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...ctId=2049721&cp

I saw a bunch of those. I was trying to avoid the plug-in variety. This one may need the optional socket. I was looking for pigtails for the 110 Volt coil so it could be wire nutted to the AC line, and screw terminals for the contact closure.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

So folks, is it the AC relay from Radio Shack ok to buy?

By the way, here is the brand/model of our water flow valve. I'm also including the picture of how it was installed.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

My last post in this thread (i.e. attempt).

Why can't you just use the unused terminals (i.e. a set of NO, NC, and C) which should be an ISOLATED set of contacts for monitoring with the Elk as shown in Figure Four in THIS manual (if this is actually the manual of the unit you have)?

Measure those terminals with a meter and make sure they are isolated, but according to that manual, they should be.

Again, what am I missing here?

 

[Digger]

I agree with BSR if that is the model you have

If not then I would go with my other suggestion.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

My last post in this thread (i.e. attempt).

Why can't you just use the unused terminals (i.e. a set of NO, NC, and C) which should be an ISOLATED set of contacts for monitoring with the Elk as shown in Figure Four in THIS manual (if this is actually the manual of the unit you have)?

Measure those terminals with a meter and make sure they are isolated, but according to that manual, they should be.

Again, what am I missing here?

Thanks BSR.

1. Where should I set my tester? Can you please look at the attachment and tell me where to point the knob?

2. And also, what about my red and black cables on the tester, are they in the right position?

3. When you said "make sure their isolated", what do you mean?

4. Am I correct that I do not need to test the terminals where the wires are currently installed?

5. Am I correct that when I test the COMM, NC, and NO, the proper testing combinations are

a. C OMM and NC
b. COMM and NO
c. NO and NC

Does it matter where I connect the black cable from the tester?

I'm sorry folks, I have so many questions.

Thanks again!

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I agree with BSR if that is the model you have

If not then I would go with my other suggestion.

Yes, it's the exact model. Can you guys tell me what type of wire to use, what EOLR, and from where to where in M1.

 

[rfdesq]

I agree with BSR if that is the model you have

If not then I would go with my other suggestion.

Yes, it's the exact model. Can you guys tell me what type of wire to use, what EOLR, and from where to where in M1.

Seeing the manual I agree with BSR. Use the wiring diagram in the manual and hook it to any unused zone in the M1 except zone 16. The EOL is the standard 2.2k. Since you are in the presence of high voltage, I would use wire that is rated at 300 volts i.e. Radio Shack part no. 278-1218. Read the manual on your VOM and if you have any questions then PM me.

 

[AnotherOne]

So once you get this connected as a zone in the M1 system, what type of zone is it. Water doesn't seem right, as you really want this to be treated the same as a smoke detector - get the fire dept there fast.

 

[rfdesq]

So once you get this connected as a zone in the M1 system, what type of zone is it. Water doesn't seem right, as you really want this to be treated the same as a smoke detector - get the fire dept there fast.

10=Fire Alarm. It says Fire/Four Wire Smoke/RF. It is a 24 hour zone.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Can't I use my 18gauge fire rated wire? And also, can you please verify the connection from the drawing I modified?

Thanks!