My fun with zWave via CQC & (indirectly) the Elk

IVB

Senior Member
Two words: Woo (almost) to the Hoo!

Got my zWave stuff in from AO, mounted it. Had 1 bad switch out of 5, but the lamp module & external screw-in thingey were fine. I've now got 6 functioning zWave lights. And, get this: They work natively via CQC (ok, not that big a deal, just hadt to make sure to get the ACT controller known to work fine with the CQC driver), and, in the case of my Entry Light, through my Elk Kepad! Wife is very juiced b/c in order to overcome some horrific wiring, we had to leave power on all the time to the entry fixture and use a FUGLY pullstring fixture on it. So ugly so ugly so ugly. I setup the F6 button on the Elk Keypad to be a toggle for the entry light, setup a rule to turn an output one, and setup CQC to trap changes to that rule and turn on the light.

I am having a pretty serious issue with stability of the system in that 1-2 of the switches are constantly losing it's connection to CQC, but I suspect that I don't have enough installed given that it's a mesh network thing with a 4 limit hop. Now that I know that this can work, i'll order another 8-12 switches tomorrow and install them. That should greatly enhance the performance of my setup. Only time will tell what the mid-term stability of this is, hopefully it's good enough to last and be operational for at least 3-6 months or so.

Don't get me wrong - I still want to put in HomeWorks, it's just that I need to show the wife that you can use a lighting control system for both ease of use (overcome bad wiring design, turn off all lights upon security arm, etc), and for security (Turn on & off all lights upon intrusion, do not allow the blinking to stop unless, well, i'll think of someting). We had another mugging last week, not much an automation system can do about random stuff, but at least we can bring attention to the house when it's unoccupied if folks try and break in.)

Here's the screen I came up with. Given that this is a temporary solution, I'll probably limit myself to 20-ish switches & appliance control modules. That's only $700-$800 from automatedoutlet, so it's a good investment in learning what I'd actually want from a robust platform like Homeworks. Each of the grey/yellow buttons are actually on/off buttons, plus there's the "all-off" in the middle of the screen. I can fit 14 dimmers at the bottom. The up&down buttons change the level by 10% per shot, with a halt at 0% and 99% given those are the zWave bounds.

Furthermore, I used the cool if-then logic in the V2.0/CQC to take whatever the current value is and extend that. This means that if someone manually changes that level, I don't care.

IIRC, determining current dimmer level isn't possible in RadioRA, so that ability immediately makes me glad I didn't go that route. Either go long or go home...

Here's the code, again all entirely done with point&click, I just had to type in the variable names.
Code:
[OnClick]
   LocalVars::SetVariable(LVar:CurVal, $(sample-zwave-ACT.LivRm)) 
   LocalVars::Add(LVar:CurVal, 10) 
   If System::GrThan(%(LVar:CurVal), 99) 
      LocalVars::SetVariable(LVar:CurVal, 99) 
   End
   Devices::FieldWrite(sample-zwave-ACT.LivRm, %(LVar:CurVal))


Finally, here's that screenshot. BTW, I'll be putting this in it's entirety into that non-art downloadable CQC template pack I got given that there's nothing copyrighted in it. (just ripper's awesome Insteon image, which I photoshopped to fit)

Overlay_Lights_Status.jpg
 
Good to hear you got it working relatively easily.

A couple quick questions about your hardware: which switches did you get (and what do you think of them) and does the ACT controller have built in scheduling?
 
Trust me - it could only be considered a relatively easy setup compared to your experience and also considering that it took me <1 day to resolve any angst. Although thankfully you posted it, b/c all I had to do was to make sure I got the V1.26 (current) ACT controller and USB interface.

Quick answer to your question, then a longer post with the specific difficulties. Not that big a deal in the end, would have posted it initially but it was already 1am when I did that post.

I got all Intermatic switches (HA06C i think). Do I like them? Well, they're a lot nicer than the crappy 30yr old dimmers I have. I would have preferred a slider concept for the dimming rather than the touch&hold, so that'll take some getting used to. Plus I noticed that if you turn it off while dimmed, when you turn it back on it goes to the dimmed %, not 99%. Not terribly intuitive, but heck, it's only $35.

I'll have to check on the ACT controller scheduling - it asked me for the time when I first put the batteries in, so i would hope it had a reason to do that.

Ok, so some of the full disclosure issues: I was damn well near ready to throw this out the window yesterday due to issues getting the controller to 1) add unit to network, 2)replicate to the USB controller without a send error. Dean mentioned on CQC that he's had better luck mounting the USB controller high, away from noise generating devices. In my case, that wasn't an option as I wanted to put it in the den, and the wife would have my a$$ if I were to put something up visible like that. Nearly all of my other server PC locations are in highly dirty positions, so I was irritated enough that I had a nice glass of wine while cooking the turkey.

Suddenly I remembered I had that lovely SageTV PC in the basement. So, I switched gears, moved it to the basement SageTV PC, and mounted it on the ceiling. That was already a "server" in CQC land anyhow, so it's not like it was a big deal.

I will have to see how it stands up to the test of time. I've had many products that work initially, then fall down quickly.
 
Ok, now we're starting to hit some serious MAF. (again, that's my acceptance factor). A little WAF too.

We've got an MBR closet that has no light in it. Why, I have no idea. But, we've had this stupid table lamp on an extension cord in there, and we have to reach in and turn it on every time we open the door to look in. We don't need the light 100% of the time, but a solid 75% as it doesn't get much direct light. I swear every time I open that up as it's just such a hack, esp since the on/off switch isn't really conveniently located. So, I got to thinking - i've got an Elk, I've got CQC, and now i've got zWave, why not integrate this stuff and fix my dang problem.

Well, all these wiring runs are starting to show in terms of experience. I just took 15 mins to drill a hole in the floor of the MBRCloset where the door is, mount a magnetic switch, run it to the Elk 2ndary cabinet. I then took another 10 mins went into CQC, setup a trigger on that zone that'll turn off the MBRCloset light if the door is closed, turn it on when the door is open. Ok, that part shouldn't have taken 10 mins, but it took me way too long to realize that I was triggering on the wrong elk zone (ie, wasn't looking at the right field).

There is a but. I have had many many timeouts between CQC & zWave, but I'm really thinking it's b/c the USB controller has to go 15' through a 4" to the nearest switch, and the next one is another 10' away. I ordered another 10 HA06C zWave switches and 2 external lamp modules, (2day UPS to boot), once those are mounted i'll have a 20-switch network including 2 switches 7' away through air from the controller, and 4 more switches literally just above the USB controller. That's as much as I can do to make this a decent network given that there is no RF repeater concept a la Homeworks RF.
 
Are you using the USB or the serial version of the controller? There were various complaints back when about the ACT USB one that if it didn't have the USB hub to itself that it might be underpowered and not provide as good a signal as it should. Some folks would move them to an external powered hub in order to give them full access to the USB provided power. Not sure if that was just an old wive's tale, or not. Some folks moved to the serial version of it for the same reason, since it provides its own power supply in that case.
 
IVB said:
I got all Intermatic switches (HA06C i think)...turn it off while dimmed, when you turn it back on it goes to the dimmed %, not 99%.
Yeah, same complaint here. It's funny because I much prefer the feel of the Intermatic switches over the ACT switches but the ACT switches have the double tap feature which takes it directly to 100%.

Since you got the HA06C though, how is the color on yours? On my 4 they're not the same white as the switch plates and it makes them look off.
 
Dean Roddey said:
Are you using the USB or the serial version of the controller? There were various complaints back when about the ACT USB one that if it didn't have the USB hub to itself that it might be underpowered and not provide as good a signal as it should. Some folks would move them to an external powered hub in order to give them full access to the USB provided power. Not sure if that was just an old wive's tale, or not. Some folks moved to the serial version of it for the same reason, since it provides its own power supply in that case.
I was using the USB one b/c it's cheaper. I don't think I even own a powered hub anymore, can I buy a cheap USB1.1 one off eBay for $5 and have it work ok?

Since you got the HA06C though, how is the color on yours? On my 4 they're not the same white as the switch plates and it makes them look off.

LOL, I'm actually just doing one final cocoontech check before leaving for Ace Hardware, taking the broken switch with me so I can buy new faceplates that match. I totally phased on buying faceplates with these.

Hopefully I find someone thing close. This is exactly the type of complaint that my wife would have about why she doesn't like the new switches...
 
I was using the USB one b/c it's cheaper. I don't think I even own a powered hub anymore, can I buy a cheap USB1.1 one off eBay for $5 and have it work ok?

I dunno. I'm not sure I'd take a chance. New ones are pretty inexpensive.
 
well, i just got back from my Ace hardware/Home Depot run, nuthin even close to a matching faceplate. I supposed I'll add this on to my AO order.

Also, there was a CUSA next door, so I picked up a powered 2.0 hub. I just hooked it up, i'll post results over on the CQC forums.
 
IVB said:
well, i just got back from my Ace hardware/Home Depot run, nuthin even close to a matching faceplate. I supposed I'll add this on to my AO order.
I was afraid of that.

The Intermatic switches are just plain off. Unless AO is selling plates made by or for Intermatic, I have a feeling that finding a matching tone is going to be difficult at best.

What I find hilarious though is that the ACT switches are the right shade of white but they have an added texture for some reason. The one I have came with a single gang cover with the same texture on it but put more than one switch in a box and you're back to unmatched plates to switches.
 
I got some of the Lutron Dimmer color cards from home depot. I'm going to see if I can get just the faceplates. If you have a HD near you, check out the "Satin Colors.MatteFinish.Biscuit" color - wife seems to think it's a real close match, and would actually go well with the trim.

Alas, she just launched into a "oh wait, if you're ordering, perhaps we need antique white in certain rooms". She's now off in a tizzy deciding all this crap. What's up with all these shades of white, anyhow?

Anything to keep her engaged in the HA thing, I suppose, and not paying attention to the fact that I just spent $1K on zWave...
 
IVB said:
I was using the USB one b/c it's cheaper. I don't think I even own a powered hub anymore, can I buy a cheap USB1.1 one off eBay for $5 and have it work ok?
I had many problems in the past with the USB controller originally purchased from Homeseer...I tried all the voodoo tricks including using with a powered hub and still had problems.

I then ordered a serial version that basically looked the exact same..maybe they just cut off the usb end and soldered on a rs-232 :) ...Regardless after this my Z-wave reliability went up 10x or more...no more of the earlier communication problems I had..while using the usb and serial version I was using Homeseer and haven't tried with CQC just yet...soon.
 
Ok. Well, i'll see what I can do about this. I'm having bizarre OS-level stability issues with the USB version - it looks like it's eating it's own tail. (CQC can't connect to it b/c it's waiting on the COM port to be free, but yet nothing else is using it.)
 
And the beat goes on. Mounted another 4 switches today. Helped a little with the network, but still having issues maybe 35% of the time (down from 50%). I've got another 6 I can easily mount, if that doesn't help I'll try relocating the USB controller. If basic repointing doesn't work, i'll try moving it to the mainfloor. That's going to suck, cuz it's currently below a 4" subfloor, under the MBR, and i'll have to drill a hole to mount it. I'll be able to put it in a hidden location, but it's still going to cost WAF points if that's where it ends up having to be.

All in all, yet another demonstration that as soon as I can afford a "real" solution like HomeWorks, I'll do that.

overlay_lights_status.jpg
 
IVB,

What kind of issues are you having 35% of the time? Are all of the products in your network Z-Wave Certified? (What are you using?)

Chris
 
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