my whole house wiring project
- Thread starter v1rtu0s1ty
- Start date
Plastic water lines have been around for a while now but they are not accepted in many areas yet. From what I have read the installation is sooooooooooooo much easier (faster to) and it is cheaper than copper.
I think that they guesstimate that the life of the product will be longer than copper also and that there is less problems with sediment build up etc.
Think of not having to sweat each connection and make bends easier etc.
The water lines are a special plastic suitable for pottable water. Its not the same as what you would use for waste lines or radiant heat lines.
Next will be plastic studs instead of metal. While I am joking I bet they could make a very strong stud that is better than metal but not as good as wood. I guess the biggest problem would be the toxins in a fire.
I think that they guesstimate that the life of the product will be longer than copper also and that there is less problems with sediment build up etc.
Think of not having to sweat each connection and make bends easier etc.
The water lines are a special plastic suitable for pottable water. Its not the same as what you would use for waste lines or radiant heat lines.
Next will be plastic studs instead of metal. While I am joking I bet they could make a very strong stud that is better than metal but not as good as wood. I guess the biggest problem would be the toxins in a fire.
upstatemike
Senior Member
Seems like every time they come up with something like this they have to pull it off the market a few years later when it is discovered it is not safe after all. (They are already taking another look at plastic soda bottles and the bags used for microwave popcorn).Digger said:
Besides, how do you use a cold water pipe as a grounding point if the pipe is plastic?
upstatemike
Senior Member
TCassio said:
Mike,
Have you checked the price of Copper lately. In the past 2 months the price of electrical wire has trippled. I can't imagine what copper pipe is costing. Being a general contractor it is allways best to try and keep the costs of housing down.
The plastic pipes were around in the mid seventies, if there were a problem with them, I'm sure they would have discovered them within 30 years.
And yes, if you turn the water off and drain the pipes in winter you should not have a problem. People are not perfect and make mistakes and forget to turn the water off. If I made that mistake, I would be thankful for the plastice pipe, saving me hundreds if not thousands of dollars in repair costs.
Have you checked the price of Copper lately. In the past 2 months the price of electrical wire has trippled. I can't imagine what copper pipe is costing. Being a general contractor it is allways best to try and keep the costs of housing down.
The plastic pipes were around in the mid seventies, if there were a problem with them, I'm sure they would have discovered them within 30 years.
And yes, if you turn the water off and drain the pipes in winter you should not have a problem. People are not perfect and make mistakes and forget to turn the water off. If I made that mistake, I would be thankful for the plastice pipe, saving me hundreds if not thousands of dollars in repair costs.
BraveSirRobbin
Moderator
During the pouring of the basement floor (or main floor if no basement) they drive a piece of rebar into the ground (which is also connected to the rebar "mesh" for the foundation.upstatemike said:
They tie a ground point to this piece of rebar (even have a special clamp just for this purpose).
upstatemike
Senior Member
Is this the main electrical system ground or is there a conventional grounding rod as well?
In many localities they require the ground rod even if you have copper cold water pipes. Where I am I have my electrical panel grounded to both the cold water pipe coming a ground rod going down 10 feet. It would not have passed insepction with anything less.
As far as finding out that years later the plastic pipe may be hazardous I agree. Smae thing with leaded solder for copper pipes years ago. Also since asbestos in out they now use fiberglass in its place (in some cases) and that to will probably be found to be as dangerous.
As far as finding out that years later the plastic pipe may be hazardous I agree. Smae thing with leaded solder for copper pipes years ago. Also since asbestos in out they now use fiberglass in its place (in some cases) and that to will probably be found to be as dangerous.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
I've seen a guy install a plastic pipe for bathroom feed at "This Old House" in WYCC channel. I think, the .mpg recording is still saved in my mythtv. He mentioned that it only took him 2 hours to put pipes in 2 bathrooms. Then he also mentioned that it would take him 2.5 days to finished the 2 bathrooms if using copper. It also uses the same glue, the clear and violet prime.
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Ok, today, I have finished wiring for all security sensors in first floor. However, I didn't have the time to take some pictures. Tomorrow, I will be wiring the keypad in first and second floor downto the headend. I will be putting 2 cat5e and an 18/4 for each keypad. I will also start putting speaker wires/coaxial wires. Later guys, need to go a dinner gtg. 
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
hey guys, where did you put your Elk keypad in the second floor, hallway or inside the masterbedroom?
v1rtu0s1ty
Senior Member
Ok, I will put it in the master bedroom then. I've got few more questions guys. I would just like to make sure I have enough wire for keypad, audio control. I'm planning to run 3 cat5e and 1 18/4 from the keypad location. I can use one cat5e for the keypad, another one for the audio control like Netstream's Musica or Russound's UNO then lastly for the intercom.
For the IR, hmmm, I'm thinking of running a dedicated cat5e and not have it just terminate it at the keypad location. This way, I can buy a dedicated IR system like Xantech. Or maybe, I don't know, if I can still use xantech system even if I will terminate the cat5e from TV to keypad location. What do you think guys? If it works, I will save tons of work.
For the IR, hmmm, I'm thinking of running a dedicated cat5e and not have it just terminate it at the keypad location. This way, I can buy a dedicated IR system like Xantech. Or maybe, I don't know, if I can still use xantech system even if I will terminate the cat5e from TV to keypad location. What do you think guys? If it works, I will save tons of work.
I ran cat 5 for my xantech distribution. For IR eyes you use 3 conductors, for blasters you use 2. Cables to go has keystone/quickport jacks so you can buy the eye that plugs in with an 1/8th inch mini plug and have it neatly mounted.
Be warned, those jacks seem to be on the edge of specs for quickport so I had some trouble at least in a 4 gang installation where I had to use the guides versus the full plate and had to shave the plastic encasing the jack a bit. Much better and cleaner than trying to make your own (in my opinion, as I tried but perhaps you have more finesse).
They did seem to fit fine in a plate if I was not putting multiple (as the edges start to hit, at least in 6 port configurations if I remember correctly).
Be warned, those jacks seem to be on the edge of specs for quickport so I had some trouble at least in a 4 gang installation where I had to use the guides versus the full plate and had to shave the plastic encasing the jack a bit. Much better and cleaner than trying to make your own (in my opinion, as I tried but perhaps you have more finesse).
They did seem to fit fine in a plate if I was not putting multiple (as the edges start to hit, at least in 6 port configurations if I remember correctly).
