Need a little help with planning

[upstatemike]

I guess I'm not really following this either. Are you saying to use four wires for each zone just so you can place the EOL resistor in the security box?

This sounds pretty extreme for a home security system.

Yes. And how extreme it is depends on how inaccessible the last detector in each zone is. It sure is nice to be able to stand in one spot and troubleshoot a zone from end to end.

 

[bearfan]

Well I dloaded the elk instructions which is what I needed.I will study them and it makes more sense already.

 

[carry15+1]

Chalk this up to a senior moment.

I was thinking of n/o smokes with the EOL at the cabinet.

You are totally correct - your n/c contacts will be wired in series with the EOL resistor, and you could put the EOL resistor at the cabinet (or last sensor) using just the two conductors.

Normally open sensors will be wired in parallel, and you could use the 4-wires to locate the EOL at the cabinet. The only advantage I can think of to putting the EOL at the cabinet is ease in troubleshooting and if you find you need a different value EOL resistor in the future it would be a simple change.

Sorry I confused the whole thread.

John

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I do that all the time John . Thanks for the explanation!

Regards,

BSR

 

[bearfan]

Okay just so I am 100% clear since we all started somewhere.I have read the elk instructions.They show 1 sensor on one zone.

Now the way I thought you wired this was 2 wires go to first sensor,you only use one to connect n/c sesnor.The other wire on sensor goes to second sensor in that zone and so on until you reach last sensor then resistor goes after last sensor at sensor or box.Is this correct?

The n/o sensors go back to box both wires?

Are these correct?I need to know this since the elk instructions are not totally clear.

 

[bearfan]

Well I found my answers here.I can wire in series or have each sensor come back to board as its own zone.No offense but I thought it was an easy question.

I am thinking each sensor coming back to board has its advantages.

Carry on,can you tell me how you wired your garage door to short out door to house when it was activated?Also can anyone recommend a good surface mount sensor for Anderson casement windows?I have drywall returns.I do not want to drill into window.

Any favorites on motion sensors.We have a cat and will be getting another.

Should I run wires to an swith or 2 so when the switch size keypad is out I can put that in?

I appreciate any help you guys can give.I have learned a ton so far.I know thier are more tricks out there and I want to get wiring right before drywall goes in.

 

[Steve]

I just used GRI 110T and liked them. They are nice and small and have strong magnets so you can do wider gap if needed.

 

[carry15+1]

Carry on,can you tell me how you wired your garage door to short out door to house when it was activated?Also can anyone recommend a good surface mount sensor for Anderson casement windows?I have drywall returns.I do not want to drill into window.

Any favorites on motion sensors.We have a cat and will be getting another.

You can accomplish the shunt several ways. On the M1G you can have a rule like:

whenever zone n (GD) is unsecure
then turn off output x

whenever zone n (GD) becomes secure
then turn on output x ( bypass screen door )

Use the contacts of output x (relay) to short across the contacts on the screen door when the garage door is closed.

I don't have a great deal of experience with motion detectors, but I have a few Napco dual tech that have worked very well.

I have Anderson casement windows in my home - screens on the inside. At present I use standard door/window magnetic contacts on the screens. If a burglar knows this, and he can cut the screen out without disturbing the frame, I guess I'll have to rely on one of the four dogs to let me know. You can have a special screen made (expensive) that takes care of the screen cutting problem, but as I live in a very safe neighborhood I haven't bothered. I just hope that an intruder will decide to remove the screen to gain entry - and that will set the alarm off.

 

[bearfan]

Thanks guys for the replies.

Okay I see how you do it.I am familiar with auto bosch relays and basically they all do the same thing.

I see you put them on the screen.Never thought of that.Think I should do that.I am in a safe neighborhood also.I just want this in case some kids try to break in.Which is usually more so the case.I also want the other added features of automation.

One more thing,I have a MS intercom coming.It has a doorbell feature for intercom.Can I still hook up the elk to it?I am thinking yes ,it still has to work like a doorbell.Thanks again.

 

[bearfan]

Carry on,did you use mini's on the screens?How did you attatch them?


I was in a neighbor house today with adt system.It beeped when the door opened thats about it.

With a camera at the front door on brick ,what method of running wires do you guys use?I see they have a power supply and I think rg cable.Is that coorect?

 

[brotsten]

I have Anderson casement windows in my home - screens on the inside. At present I use standard door/window magnetic contacts on the screens. If a burglar knows this, and he can cut the screen out without disturbing the frame, I guess I'll have to rely on one of the four dogs to let me know. You can have a special screen made (expensive) that takes care of the screen cutting problem, but as I live in a very safe neighborhood I haven't bothered. I just hope that an intruder will decide to remove the screen to gain entry - and that will set the alarm off.

I'm putting Anderson casement windows in my new house also. Can you tell me why you alarmed the screen vs the window?

Could you show us a picture of your install?

Thanks,

Brian

 

[carry15+1]

I have Anderson casement windows in my home - screens on the inside. At present I use standard door/window magnetic contacts on the screens. If a burglar knows this, and he can cut the screen out without disturbing the frame, I guess I'll have to rely on one of the four dogs to let me know. You can have a special screen made (expensive) that takes care of the screen cutting problem, but as I live in a very safe neighborhood I haven't bothered. I just hope that an intruder will decide to remove the screen to gain entry - and that will set the alarm off.

I'm putting Anderson casement windows in my new house also. Can you tell me why you alarmed the screen vs the window?

Could you show us a picture of your install?

Thanks,

Brian

Brian,

I can't offer any photos at this time. My camera is not currently available.

Casement windows are a problem if you aren't going to close them fully before you arm your system. I know of no method to allow you to have these windows partly open and satisfy a magnetic contact.

There are sources for custom "alarm screens" for casement windows. They are not cheap. I chose to install simple magnetic window contacts on each screen. My thoughts are that a crook isn't going to slice the screen up to enter, he's just going to give the screen a push into the house. If this is correct (the screen easily comes out) then I'll get an alarm. If not, one of our 4 dogs will have to sound the alarm

I llive in a very rural area. I know of no residential burglaries in the last 10 years within 10 miles of me. Most people here have dogs...and guns. If I lived in a big city or an area with crime I would look into the special alarm screens. You might check to see what deduct you get if you don't take the screens from Anderson - perhaps it wouldn't be too expensive to upgrade to the alarm screens on a new install.

John