New Elk M1 installation

nlopes

New Member
Hi, newbie here and would appreciate your input. After many months of researching and reading posts from this and other websites I finally decided to purchase and install an Elk M1 Gold system. I’m halfway done with the installation of the Elk system but decided to pause and make sure I’m not missing anything. Below is a list of the items I've purchased to date:
  • ELK M1 Control System
    1. ELK-M1GKS M1 Gold Control Kit without Enclosure
      • M1 Gold Control Board
      • ELK-M1KP2 LCD Keypad
      • ELK-1280 8Ah Battery
      • ELK-TRG1640 AC Transformer
      • ELK-73 Echo Paintable Interior Speaker
      • ELK-952 Surge Protector
      • ELK-RJSET Telco Jack & Cord (not using)
    2. ELK-M1XEP Ethernet Interface
    3. ELK M1XIN 16 Zone Input Expander
      • ELK P212S Supervised Remote Power Supply
      • ELK TRG1640 AC Transformer 16.5VAC, 45 VA
      • ELK-1280 8Ah Battery
    4. ELK-M1DBH M1 Data Bus Hub
    5. ELK-M1BBK2 recessed, “flush” mount
    6. ELK-M1KPNAV Navigator Touchscreen Keypad
    7. ELK-M1XRFTW Wireless Transceiver
      • ELK-6010 Four Button Keyfob
    8. ELK-M1TWI M1 Gold Two Way Listen-In Interface
      • ELK-SP12F Flush Mount Speaker
      • ELK-M1TWSF M1 Two Way Flush Mount Speaker/Microphone
    9. ELK-SWB28 28” Structured Wiring Box
    10. ELK SWS Structured Wiring Battery Shelf
  • Cellular Communication Center
    1. UPLINK 2500STD ANYNET GSM CELLULAR
      • ELK-M1XSP Lighting/Thermostat Interface, Serial Port Expander
      • ELK-P983 Power Supply for Cellular Alarm Transceiver
      • ELK-1280 12V 8Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery
      • ELK TRG1640 AC Transformer 16.5VAC, 45 VA
      • ELK 965 Low Battery Cutoff & Mst Power Switch
  • Wire
    1. 22/2-for 2 wire non-powered sensors (door and window contacts, etc)
    2. 22/4-for 4 wire sensors requiring power (motion/carbon monoxide detectors etc)
    3. 18/2-for 2 wire speakers
    4. 18/4 Firewire-for smoke/heat
    5. 18/4-for 4 wire speakers/mic
    6. Cat5e-for Keypad and camera
  • Devices
    1. Smoke Detectors
      • 4WTA-B Photoelectric Smoke Detector with Thermal Sensor
      • RRS-MOD System Sensor reversing relay/synchronization module
      • SYSTEM SENSOR EOLR-1 SPST End of Line
    2. Door/Window Contacts
      • 3/8" Stubby Recessed Contact with Rare Earth Button Magnet
      • ELK-6020 Slim Line Door & Window Sensor
    3. Motion Detectors
      • AURORA - ADEMCO PIR Motion Detector
    4. Carbon Monoxide Detectors
      • 250-CO - Ge Security SafeAir Carbon Monoxide Detector
    5. Glass Break detectors
      • 5822A-W - Recessed ShatterPro II Acoustic Glassbreak Sensor
I've also prepared a wiring diagram of this installation but was unable to upload an image/pdf of it. I will do so as soon as I able to.

I don’t have POTS, I’ve wired most devices but went wireless with a few hard to get door and window contacts and intend to expand the system in the future to add door locks and thermostat control.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 
Seems like you have the right hardware and plans. Since you mentioned adding more later Just remember when programming zones that the wireless bank has a limitation... if I recall correctly it can only have wireless zones under 177 or something so we put the wireless expander on The 3rd bank of devices 33-49 and reserved the remaining banks for wireless up to the limit then put a wired expander's zones after those. It seemed crazy to assign them so high up but it makes sense when future-proofing.
 
Hi, this list seems really complete. I have a similar install sans COs, Smokes, and Uplink. A few of the items that I had to order later and I would recommend are:

1) Elk-PD9: I ordered two of these for my 4-wire devices like the glassbreaks and the the motions. It cleanly splits up the power from the VAUX outputs
2) Elk-SWD1: You don't need these grommets, but they complete the installation in the 28" can
3) Elk-SWP3: You should order these adapter plates for the PD9's or other boards of similar size. It really cleans up the install
4) Elk-SP12F: Flushmount speakers work well with the KP2s you've included
5) Leviton Surge Protected Plug Kit: You will need this for your 28" can
6) 18 gauge solid 2 wire to connect the transformer to the M1 board
7) Dolphin crimps
8) Extra 2100k EOL resistors
9) Ion Micra Wireless Recessed Window Sensors: I used these just so my alarm install was as unobtrusive as possible. If you get these, you'll need the Elk-M1XRFEG for the GE compatible Micra transmitters.
 
EOLRs for Elk are 2200k ;)

In place of the SWP3 plates, Id suggest the Elk SWG (plastic glides). I have all boards mounted in them and they are great. Even the XEP and PD9 fit in them nicely....those boards lack the notch to keep them locked into the SWG but I find that they dont move unless you really tug on them. Could also wrap a bit of electrical tape around the SWG to ensure the boards never slide out.

I think the SWP3 take up too much space personally.
 
Hi, this list seems really complete. I have a similar install sans COs, Smokes, and Uplink. A few of the items that I had to order later and I would recommend are:

1) Elk-PD9: I ordered two of these for my 4-wire devices like the glassbreaks and the the motions. It cleanly splits up the power from the VAUX outputs
2) Elk-SWD1: You don't need these grommets, but they complete the installation in the 28" can
3) Elk-SWP3: You should order these adapter plates for the PD9's or other boards of similar size. It really cleans up the install
4) Elk-SP12F: Flushmount speakers work well with the KP2s you've included
5) Leviton Surge Protected Plug Kit: You will need this for your 28" can
6) 18 gauge solid 2 wire to connect the transformer to the M1 board
7) Dolphin crimps
8) Extra 2100k EOL resistors
9) Ion Micra Wireless Recessed Window Sensors: I used these just so my alarm install was as unobtrusive as possible. If you get these, you'll need the Elk-M1XRFEG for the GE compatible Micra transmitters.

All openings in an enclosure need to be grommetted or bushed unless you are bringing the wiring through the hole in the back of the can and the sheetrock is providing the "bushing" material. Spelled out in code.

Also, those knocked out openings are good for causing ground faults or damaging the cables if there's no bushing.

And agree with the other poster, the boards and enclosure are designed for the SWG's. Once you see how they lay out in the enclosure, you'll never want to lay the boards flat.

I would probably pick out better performing PIR's (dualtec's) and GBD's and also not choose Elk's wireless due to the limited selection of devices. I can't see justifying the performance and difference for the 2 way vs. a more conventional RF setup.
 
Realize that you could always post the image on a host site (e.g. Photobucket or Imageshack) and simply link here here with IMG tags and it will show up as an embedded picture. I've been doing this for years - this way (assuming you setup an account) I can delete pictures myself at any time, can link them across multiple message boards, or simply message the image URLs to share with friends.
 
I would probably pick out better performing PIR's (dualtec's) and GBD's and also not choose Elk's wireless due to the limited selection of devices.

What is wrong with the glassbreaks? I haven't heard anything bad about them around the internets. Any personal experience?
 
EOLRs for Elk are 2200k ;)

Not to nit pick...but they are actually 2.2K or 2200 Ohm. 2200K would be 2.2 Meg Ohms. ;)

Just thought I'd say it. It could save a lot of troubleshooting...( I knew someone who once assumed that the resistors given to him for a job were the correct and he spent some time pulling his hair out)
 
Not to nit pick...but they are actually 2.2K or 2200 Ohm. 2200K would be 2.2 Meg Ohms. ;)

Just thought I'd say it. It could save a lot of troubleshooting...( I knew someone who once assumed that the resistors given to him for a job were the correct and he spent some time pulling his hair out)

Yer right! my bad.

I messed up the resistors during my install too....I had 2 sets, one was for fire (2 wire smokes + 2WMOD2 = different than standard EOLR), used the fire ones on the panel and stuff wasnt working as expected. Then I just memorized the color bands so I could tell quickly what belonged where.
 
I am considering a similar project.
It's been almost two months since your post, I was wondering if your project is completed and how it went, if you ran into any issues and how long it all took. Also I was wondering if you don't mind sharing where you purchased the elk stuff and if you don't mind sharing some lessons learned and how much $ you've invested altogether.
 
I took a long vacation after the Christmas break but now I'm back and just picked up where I left off. I'm still working on it so I don't have any lessons to share yet. I've bought all the Elk gear from various sources over the Internet (hometech, surveillent.net...) and I would guess I've spent close to $2,000 to date (not including my labor).
 
homejones said:
What is wrong with the glassbreaks? I haven't heard anything bad about them around the internets. Any personal experience?
Lots of personal experience.
 
Auroras are bottom of the line PIR's. To put it in perspective, I can buy them for abour $10 each new. A quality PIR (non-dualtec) runs double or triple...what's the difference? It's not a marketing ploy or good sales slicks by their competition or Honeywell's other products.
 
As far as Sentrol/GE/UTC products (whoever owns them know) that particular product has the same engineering and performance as when they first came out, approximately 20 years ago. I've experienced many false alarms and no-detection events....try explaining to someone why the detector, installed and tested within spec failed to perform and they're cleaning up a plate glass storefront. They're good at picking up handclaps, but in real world, I've witnessed otherwise.
 
Not a LOT of personal experience, but I've installed about 5-6 Aurora's in a few different systems. I have 2 of them in my own home and they both seem to work well for me. I purposely mess around with one of mine fairly often... walking into the room at various speeds or from various places and see how quickly it picks up my motion - and it does a very good job for me and I'd use them again. YMMV.
 
Just an FYI, while Surveillent has the lowest prices around, you are on your own if anything breaks during the warranty period.
 
I had a keypad recently go bonkers and they told me that it would be less expensive for me to buy a brand new one from them rather than shipping the unit to them. I would have to pay for shipping 3 times - ship to Surveillent, pay to have Surveillent ship to their distributor and pay for shipping back from Surveillent to me. When I asked them to just send me a copy of the receipt from their distributor so I could deal directly with Elk, I didn't hear anything back.
 
On another note, retrofitting wired sensors is a ROYAL PITA. I went with mostly wireless through the Micra ION sensors, but left a few doors on wired because I figured I had easy access through the attic and didn't want to spend $30 on another sensor. I am now kicking myself for not going totally wireless on the door sensors. In some cases, it has taken nearly an entire day for me to drill up to the attic and fish and tack a wire from my panel in the garage to the right spot - FOR A SINGLE SENSOR. I don't necessarily work slow, but this process has a ton of potential issues and it has really discouraged me.
 
Speaking of discouragement, I still have 4 wired motions and 4 wired glassbreaks to install in our 4 bedrooms. That is a lot of work!
 
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