Newbie question

[BraveSirRobbin]

I know it's a widely accepted practice, but I was always taught that you should never use crimp connections on solid wire/components, only stranded.

I will now duck as the EOL resistors are thrown at me by the installers out there!

...here is information on Scotchlock connectors:

UR2 The UR2 Connector accepts any two or three solid copper conductor combinations of 19-26 AWG (0.9 mm- 0.4 mm) air core or filled cable with a maximum insulation O.D. of 0.82". The wires joined can be of different wire gauges. 19-26 AWG, Red

Don't get me wrong, I know a lot of people use them with success! I'm just stating I prefer solder/shrink wrap over crimp for solid wire/components (just my opinion/preference) .

As I gather my EOL resistors to throw at you

Maybe I'll collect enough EOL's to sway my opinion on them also ...

 

[Sandpiper]

As a pro, and seen how many other pros work, but I've never seen a solder connection.

For wire to wire connections, use B-connectors (Beanies). Use the silicon filled ones in areas that are subject to dampness, such as for door and window contacts.

For wire to terminal connections, I always put a spot of RTV over the screw head and wire insertion point (in areas subject to dampness). This will help seal out the moisture which will corrode the wire/terminal and cause false alarms.

 

[Sandpiper]

Also do you run 4 wire or 2 wire for simple contacts? Do you run homeruns for each contact or "daisy chain" them? And for my last question, 2 or 4 wire smokes?

Oh yeal, for the other questions.

contacts...2 wire or 4 wire......I've seen both. I much prefer the 2 wire. Many times you are trying to make a connection in a very tight space, so there not much room. The extra two conductors just seem to get in the way. I dont buy the "have some extra conductors". Its just too easy just to pull another one if you need it. And I've never need the extra conductors. Also the 2/C is cheaper.

Homeruns?.......Always. In the old days when zones were expensive, you use to see daisy chaining. It may still make sense to put multiple contacts on a single zone, but it is still better to home run and then splice in the panel. Troubleshooting is much easier.

Smokes....2 wire or 4 wire....I prefer the 4 wire. The main reason is that I like the 4-wires with the local sounder. And you can get models that use EOL resistors instead of EOL relays. The resistors are much easier. Code requires a certain sound level in each bedroom, so using the local sounder insures that this can be met.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

That is a good point about bringing ALL the window/door locations back to the panel as homeruns and then series the zones together there if you want. This way you can change this configuration in the future if you wish.

Again, I'm not a pro installer

I am curious what pro's/homeowners are installing as far as cabling though. I ran stranded in my friends house as I believe that to be more flexible and immune to breakage (pulling/tugging/bending). I like the 22 gauge size also. What are others running for door/window contacts?

 

[rfdesq]

What are others running for door/window contacts?

22/4 solid.

 

[rrockoff]

Hi Hockeypuck,

I have installed a few alarms, but I am by no means an expert. On all of my alarm systems I have used a home run for each zone and a separate zone for every contact. I prefer keypads with text displays. It's is more expensive to do it this way, but it makes it real easy for anyone arming the alarm to understand why it won't arm.

Example: My wife puts in her code to set the alarm and the keypad comes back as "not ready". The "not ready" status will cycle through the labels of the open zones. This makes it quick and easy to identify open doors or windows before leaving the house.

Best of Luck,

Rod

 

[upstatemike]

That is a good point about bringing ALL the window/door locations back to the panel as homeruns and then series the zones together there if you want. This way you can change this configuration in the future if you wish.

Again, I'm not a pro installer

I am curious what pro's/homeowners are installing as far as cabling though. I ran stranded in my friends house as I believe that to be more flexible and immune to breakage (pulling/tugging/bending). I like the 22 gauge size also. What are others running for door/window contacts?

I think it depends on your termination method. 2 conductor stranded is easiest to work with but solid wire allows the use of telephone punch blocks for termination. I also do not believe in connecting field wiring directly to equipment. I like to have a "permanent" termination point such as punch blocks or barrier strips for all wire runs. All equipment (panels, relays, etc.) are then connected to these terminations. I can dramatically change the layout of my equipment at any time and the only wire I am messing with is the short connection from the termination to the panels etc. The field wiring terminations are never disturbed.

 

[jimhannah]

Thanks, Hockeypuck for starting this thread. It's been very informative.

Anybody have any recommendations/preferences on crimp tool for the B Connectors?

 

[Ranger Digital]

The 3m e-pc is GREAT. but pricey, so if not for pro use, find something else. I found one on ebay a while back that came with TWO cases of connectors for around 140 bucks so it was a steal.

http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model_E-9C.htm

and twa is rarely the cheapest.

 

[jimhannah]

This appears to be the crimp tool for the Scotchlok connectors. I was thinking about the "B connectors" or "Elk Beannies" as referred in above posts. the "Beannies" appear to require a simple crimp tool as used on spade/ring type connectors.

Do the "Elk Beannies" require a special crimper?

 

[rfdesq]

Do the "Elk Beannies" require a special crimper?

Nothing really special. I'm away from my tools at the moment. I'll get you the model number of the crimper I've used successfully for years unless someone responds first.

 

[Sandpiper]

I am curious what pro's/homeowners are installing as far as cabling though. I ran stranded in my friends house as I believe that to be more flexible and immune to breakage (pulling/tugging/bending). I like the 22 gauge size also. What are others running for door/window contacts?

For contacts, pros use almost exclusively the 22 AWG (CL2). However, I do see a mix of solid and stranded. I have been taught by my elders to use stranded on contacts and 4-wire sensors. We use solid for telephone (CM) and keypads, and 18 AWG solid (FPL) for smokes.

The theory on using stranded is that is much less prone to breaking insde the insulation. Yes, I have seen wires break inside the insulation where you cant see it and as a result....false alarms. However, this is offset, in my opinion, in that stranded is prone to "whiskers" which short out and also cause false alarms.

I dont know the theory on using solid for telephone....That is the only thing I see for telephone wiring though, other than Cat5, which is also solid, but smaller wires.

 

[Steve]

That crimp tool for the Scotchlok is nice, but CRAZY. All you need is a simple pair of pliers - insert the conductors into the connector and press the 'button' on the connector with pliers to lock in place. You can easily get the connectors at HD or just buy online in bulk if needed. As for the Beenies, you can also just use regular pliers but can use a plain crimp tool also. The inside of the Elk Beenies have sharp points that will easily squeeze into the wire. I've only had 1 connection ever be bad so sometimes I will strip the 22Ga wire before inserting into Beenie.

 

[Sandpiper]

Do the "Elk Beannies" require a special crimper?

Short answer.....no.

Long answer.......not really....but.............I have seen various tools used. Pliers, crimpers, strippers, hammers, etc. They all will work to a degree. I believe most installers use just pliers. I can tell by looking. This has the advantage in that the beanie is smashed flat, so the beanie can be re-opened if squeezed on the sides just right. Sometimes you need that extra little bit of wire and dont want to cut it off. I use my strippers which has a crimping jaw built into it. This places a "dent" into the beanie which makes it real hard to get it back open if you need to. However, it makes a much tighter contact.

I always strip, then twist the wires together, and insert into the beanie. Crimp tightly and pull on each conductor to make sure each one is in there tight. Also, always leave a little slack at each connection. And then tuck it in the hole so it is well protected.

 

[me2]

I dont know the theory on using solid for telephone....

Punch Blocks