No Internet - Want to Remotely Flip Switch

gold SIM card
What is it your are getting with the gold SIM card? 
Googled it and see that you can make a T-Mobile SIM card gold status then pay as you go on it.
I am guessing then that is both voice and data pay as you go charges.  What are those charges a la carte for voice and data?
Does it access the T-Mobile LTE network or are you only seeing a 3G network at the home?
How much are you paying today for your alarm central services monitoring?
A tickle to and from the internet is really no traffic at all and wouldn't eat much in data charges.
Gold status lets us roll over all of our minutes for another year for one $10 payment.  We use so few minutes that our net minutes goes up every year, since the $10 annual charge also includes more minutes than we use.  Monitoring is $8-10/month.
We considered doing this one remote switch because we thought we could do it with $100 set-up and $10 annual.  It's now looking like I could get there only if I was smart or clever enough.
I need to look through my PowerMax manual to see if there are codes to flip switches.
I'm also looking to see if I can put that SIM-gate opener thingy in a fireproof box. 
This just fell in to my in box from Automated Outlet.  Looks that they have a deal with alarm dot com.
I am impressed with what I see here.  Click on the log.
You can remove your panel and connect everything to the above adding one of these.
Qolsys QS7121-840

Some of you have been suggesting that I CAN use the PowerMax Pro to do this.  I blew off the suggestions because when I spoke with Visonic a few weeks ago, they told me I couldn't.
But I got my manual out, and there it is!  A power line interface module can be used to control X-10 modules, either locally, remotely, via a timer or a sensor or on command.  It even has a diagram.  Why the Visonic guy told me "no", I don't know.  Maybe just too unreliable?
So, am I on the right track now?
Just received my Particle Electron.  Has 3g data for $2.99/mo  plan on at&t or T-Mobile. Couple of months free. Might be a good fit. 1MB/mo should cover a remote command.
OK folks!  Again, I'd like to think everyone for their suggestions.  You folks are amazing!
The X10 installation on this video seems to do the trick:
Cheap, easy, ....... and possibly unreliable.  To solve the lack of a confirmation, we will be installing a light on the same switch as the heat tape, that will be visible from the outside.  We'll call a neighbor. 
The only time we would use this switch is when we are away from the house.  When we are away, there is very little electrical activity.  We have a few lights on timers and the gas heater.  Everything else is turned off or unplugged, including the fridge.  We hope that eliminates some issues.
Is there anything else I can do to improve reliability?  Maybe run an extension cord upstairs, near where the switch is, and plug the power line thingy in up there?
Is there anything else I can do to improve reliability?
Here utilize X10 with VOLP hardware which is X10 on steroids and works for my 100% of the time. 
You can purchase a XTB X10 amplifier which would help creating a sure bet and closer to 100% stuff.
There is no real status though from X10; it is one way.
That said you can install an alarm zone that closes with the power on the heating tape to validate that it is working or not.
panel == > X10 120VAC switch ==> heating tape
adding more you can
panel ==> X10 120VAC switch ==> heating tape and one 120VAC powered switch low voltage on or off with 120VAC.
on or off switch ==> two wires only to one zone on the panel ==> alarm panel to be utilized for status.
Thanks!   Can I have 2 X10 devices at the same address?  So, when I call in, and say 'turn X10 device #3 on', I actually turn on 2 different devices?
Can I have 2 X10 devices at the same address?
I do my Christmas Lighting with a bunch of X10 stuff and use one address for all of the Christmas Lighting inside and outside.
X10 has been around since the late 1970's.  It utilizes your 120VAC for transport communications.  It is old and primitive and is and always has been affected by noisy electrical and the inability to traverse phases in your home. 
You do not need to utilize a computer to program X10 devices.  You just turn a little dial on the devices and set the code there.
Jeff Volp while using the base X10 fixed much of the issues by upping the signal strength and making X10 devices that talked to the two  - three phases of your electrical infrastructure while concurrently keeping to the base protocols of X10 transport.
Automation light switching has evolved a bit since the late 1970's.  The newest stuff are miniature marvels more computer like than ever before with live status, measuring the electricity, dimming lower powered LED lighting, et al.
1 - X10 and UPB are pure power line devices
2 - Insteon uses a mixture of power line and wireless and talks X10 and Insteon (two autonomous transport communications protocols).
3 - Z-Wave and Zigbee utilize wireless transport only.
Here on the Cocoontech forum you have folks that have gone with one technology and folks that mix the technologies.  Many here are now Obi Wan's relating to their choice of automation protocol transport. 
Personally here from the get go relating to this stuff the fact has always been the more you put in the transport layers the less resilience you get; that is a fact and by nature how things work. (the wire is the best and everything else just adds more layers).
VOLP ===> look here ==> JV Digital Engineering
Here is a picture of his wares.  I utilize the XTB IIR two phase TW-523 emulator and still have the XTBR device on line today.

You can also still do temperature thermostat stuff with X10.  See here ==> X10 Thermostat Control

NOTE: the whole X10 thing is dependant on the installation (if possible) of an X10 module on your panel.  From what you have posted it should be plug n play.  I personally do not have any experience or know anything about your current alarm panel.  
X-10 powerline gizmos (the thing that puts the signal from the security system box into the electrical system of the house) are impossible to find......PSC04/PL513 = unobtainium 
Jeff Volp has the old stuff and his new stuff for sale on his web site. 
The PSC04/05 (same as the PL513) is the old version of the TW-523 stuff.  I use the TW-523 Jeff Volp emulator for my Leviton HAI OmniPro 2 panel X10 stuff.
PSC04 was a one way interface where as the PSC05/PL513 were two way interfaces and then that went to the TW-523.  I am guessing here that you can utilize a TW-523 or emulator instead.
Call or write to Jeff Volp.  He has been in business for many years now.
TW523 / PSC05 Replacement
« on: May 31, 2012, 01:07:54 PM »

Many of us use one or more TW523/PSC05 X10 powerline interfaces as part of our automation system.  That product has apparently been discontinued, and is no longer listed by any of the large dealers on eBay.

Some of you know that the XTB-IIR provides TW523 emulation, but that is an expensive option for those who just need that interface.  I am in the process of designing a simple plug-in module (XTB-523) that will include the TW523 emulation and also optionally act as a repeater for powerline signals.  I hope to have this available in about a month.

jtw said:
X-10 powerline gizmos (the thing that puts the signal from the security system box into the electrical system of the house) are impossible to find......PSC04/PL513 = unobtainium 
You can usually find a PLC05 or TW523 on eBay.  There are a couple listed there now.
But as Pete_c says, Jeff Volp sells his version, the XTB-523, which improves on the original X10 design.
You can control more than one thing by setting multiple X10 modules to the same house and unit code. But if one turns on, it is no guarantee that they all did.  So if you are going to use a light as an indication that the heat tape is on, it should be powered by the same X10 module as the heat tape itself.
Power line noise is probably the biggest problem with X10 reliability.  You can improve the reliability by having the X10 module being controlled as close to the source of the X10 command as possible.   Having them on the same circuit breaker is ideal.   Otherwise having them on the same phase of the circuit breaker panel helps.  When they are on different phases, you may need a phase coupler to help the signal get from one phase to the other.
The other thing that helps improve reliability is sending a command multiple times. So, send an ON command and then another one a few seconds or a minute later.  The more commands you send the more likely it will be that at least one will get through.
Here is a quickie over view drawing.
Not really sure on the amperage draw of you ice melting stuff.
The added 120VAC solenoid can be used to trigger a NC or NO zone on your panel to validate that the power is on for ice melting.
jtw said:
X-10 powerline gizmos (the thing that puts the signal from the security system box into the electrical system of the house) are impossible to find......PSC04/PL513 = unobtainium 
The CM11A is the more recent version.