[off topic] how to add recessed lights

[mustangcoupe]

What if I cover the existing box with a solid square metal and the grommet/conduit stuff to protect the wires? I think removing the existing box is going to be a huge task. They didn't use screw. They used nails. Once I get home tonight, I will work on it again.

Thanks for the warnings! :huh:

Not to meet code..... The way the electrical code is written, no active junction boxes can be located where parts of the structure need to be removed to access the box (NEC 314.19)

I believe this would still be considered a junction box even if it is just acting as a pass through.

 

[pipeman]

Maybe pipe the two left existing conduits, using 45 bends or home bent "S" offsets, into the top right unused knockouts on the new box.
The far right conduit could come into the side with a 90 bend.
If the nails in the existing box won't budge, you can either cut off the heads with a dremel or drill the heads off.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

I worked on the electrical issue this morning. I'm hoping this is now a PASS... Please let me know. Thanks.

 

[pipeman]

That bend on the right side of the box is a pulling elbow. The back cover needs to be removed (usually) to pull wire.
Electrical inspector might let you get away with it, but I think that fall into the inaccessible category once you close up the wall.
I was thinking a 90 bend or sweep like you have at the ceiling.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

That bend on the right side of the box is a pulling elbow. The back cover needs to be removed (usually) to pull wire.
Electrical inspector might let you get away with it, but I think that fall into the inaccessible category once you close up the wall.
I was thinking a 90 bend or sweep like you have at the ceiling.

There won't be any inspector I think that's good enough right?

 

[mustangcoupe]

At the box I would try to put a connector on that 90. It looks like it is stuck through a knockout... but it also looks like you don't have room to do so. Also on your next trip to the HW store (I know you will be back) grab a package of knockout plugs to fill the bottom hole you are no longer using.

Question 2 how many switches are you putting into that box? and do they even sell s cover large enough? it looks mighty big

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

At the box I would try to put a connector on that 90. It looks like it is stuck through a knockout... but it also looks like you don't have room to do so. Also on your next trip to the HW store (I know you will be back) grab a package of knockout plugs to fill the bottom hole you are no longer using.

Question 2 how many switches are you putting into that box? and do they even sell s cover large enough? it looks mighty big

I will be putting 4 switches and HD does have the 4 so I'm covered.

What are knockout plugs? How do tey look like?

Thanks!

 

[mustangcoupe]

What are knockout plugs? How do tey look like?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3LN65

HD sells them too but usually in bags not singles, but they are relatively cheap

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

What are knockout plugs? How do tey look like?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3LN65

HD sells them too but usually in bags not singles, but they are relatively cheap

Awesome. Thanks!

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Quick question. Do you think the current position of recessed lights near ceiling fan will produce strobe effect? The blade of the ceiling fan is 1 foot from ceiling.

 

[nick_l]

I worked on the electrical issue this morning. I'm hoping this is now a PASS... Please let me know. Thanks.

Not yet. Remember, in you instalation the conduit is your grounding system. You need to make firm, mechanically sound connections between every metal part of the installation from the end fixtures all the way back to the panel.

I see also that you are installing 4 switches in the box. If they are dimmers, remember that they will need to be de-rated.

Nick

 

[nick_l]

Help please, I need more eyes regarding the position of ceiling lights.

The picture below shows the recessed lights in the center are centered against the ceiling fan equally. The outer recessed light's distance to the center recessed lights is shorter. In the drawing, it looks nice. However, when I stand at the kitchen and look at it, I think something is not right. Oh, I put a 6" diameter cardboard and I sticked it in to the ceiling.


Here is the other drawing where the middle recessed lights aren't centered against the ceiling fan. If you noticed, the left middle recessed lights are closer to the ceiling fan. In the drawing, it doesn't look right since it's not equal. However, when I stand at the kitchen, it looks better.

But sitting at the sofa and looking at the lights, you will notice the difference in the distance between the 2 middle recessed lights from the ceiling fan.

Which should I use?

IMO, you should use the second option, but you should be adding another set of cans closest to the fireplace wall. For you puposes you should basically ignore the eyeballs above the fireplace (also you could probably get away with just installing one). Recessed can lights are for general, even illumination and should be spaced as evenly as possible, avoiding the Fan, of course. The spots above the fireplace are accent lights and should be separately switched and not used to light the room.


Nick

 

[mustangcoupe]

.........
Not yet. Remember, in you instalation the conduit is your grounding system. You need to make firm, mechanically sound connections between every metal part of the installation from the end fixtures all the way back to the panel..............
Nick

Thanks Nick, I missed that one... glad there are alot of eyes on this board

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Help please, I need more eyes regarding the position of ceiling lights.

The picture below shows the recessed lights in the center are centered against the ceiling fan equally. The outer recessed light's distance to the center recessed lights is shorter. In the drawing, it looks nice. However, when I stand at the kitchen and look at it, I think something is not right. Oh, I put a 6" diameter cardboard and I sticked it in to the ceiling.


Here is the other drawing where the middle recessed lights aren't centered against the ceiling fan. If you noticed, the left middle recessed lights are closer to the ceiling fan. In the drawing, it doesn't look right since it's not equal. However, when I stand at the kitchen, it looks better.

But sitting at the sofa and looking at the lights, you will notice the difference in the distance between the 2 middle recessed lights from the ceiling fan.

Which should I use?

IMO, you should use the second option, but you should be adding another set of cans closest to the fireplace wall. For you puposes you should basically ignore the eyeballs above the fireplace (also you could probably get away with just installing one). Recessed can lights are for general, even illumination and should be spaced as evenly as possible, avoiding the Fan, of course. The spots above the fireplace are accent lights and should be separately switched and not used to light the room.


Nick

The switches for the eyeball and the other lights are separate. I'm thinking of just one dimmer. I cannot remove the eyeball since that is just the piece that wife wants. If I said "no to eyeball" to her last time, there wouldn't be any family room project.

What do you mean "it has to be de-rated"?


Thanks for the inputs.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

.........
Not yet. Remember, in you instalation the conduit is your grounding system. You need to make firm, mechanically sound connections between every metal part of the installation from the end fixtures all the way back to the panel..............
Nick

Thanks Nick, I missed that one... glad there are alot of eyes on this board

I think Steve told to me about grounding, iirc. That's also covered.