poor man's garden sprinkler

[shenandoah75]

I have kind of an in between idea (or maybe it's the same and i misunderstood the above)... I'm assuming cqc supports server side variables (haven't look yet), but assuming so, i can read/set those... i'm sure upon saving changes, i can write to the cqc variables and send the elk passthrough command to sync them up.

The whole point here for me is to avoid using elk keypads or elkrp to change thing like durations (be it sprinkler / pool pump / etc). Doesn't really matter what drives them from the change point of view...

The only issue would be elkrp would catch the delta when i do need to program and reset, but i can live with that... Need to check elk rules, but if i can compare sutom setting values for eqaulity, i might be able to have elk raise an email or keypad display if they get out of sync too...


-brad

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

I agree with ginigma, the supply is probably 4.5 volts because they use three batteries, but the problem is that is what is powering the controller/timer and you really don't know the exact voltage that the controller is supplying to the valves.

Is there any nomenclature on the valve itself? I have a DC variable power supply here and I was just going to ramp up the voltage until I heard it "click" on.

 

[RichTJ99]

I agree with ginigma, the supply is probably 4.5 volts because they use three batteries, but the problem is that is what is powering the controller/timer and you really don't know the exact voltage that the controller is supplying to the valves.

Is there any nomenclature on the valve itself? I have a DC variable power supply here and I was just going to ramp up the voltage until I heard it "click" on.

I am using a +12V 1200mA unit

The strange thing is that all three wires seem to be touching each other within the black plastic coating. I cant figure how that would work.

 

[RichTJ99]

I have a DC Train transformer I was just playing with. That did not work either.

I cant help wondering how it could work with the bare wires touching each other though.

 

[RichTJ99]

This is the power plug. It looks to be a standard 1/8 sized jack (3.5mm).

I cant seem to find a DC power adapter that has the ability to accept that sized male jack (pictured below).

 

[RichTJ99]

One other thing, I assume simply shoving two of the wires into an AC outlet in my house would not work (nor be a good example to my 5 month old son).

 

[WayneW]

I was surprised to find 3 wires & not 2 wires. Green, Copper, & Red
Plus they didnt seem shielded from each other. There is the rubber coating on the outside, then the three wires all together.

Is the copper wire actually colored green & red? Usually when people talk about wire colors, they are actually talking about the insulation or jacket color

 

[RichTJ99]

Im not sure if the copper colored wire is actually copper, its just looks like a standard ground colored copper. The green could be ground too.

There doesnt seem to be a jacket (aside from the black rubber casing that all three wires are using). Thats what is so strange to me. Those three wires all seem to be bare, no insulation at all from each other.

 

[v1rtu0s1ty]

Im not sure if the copper colored wire is actually copper, its just looks like a standard ground colored copper. The green could be ground too.

There doesnt seem to be a jacket (aside from the black rubber casing that all three wires are using). Thats what is so strange to me. Those three wires all seem to be bare, no insulation at all from each other.

My guess is the colors are very thin film and are used for insulation and color coding too.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Do you have an ohm-meter? Can you get to the wires on the back of the plug (it looks like you might not be able to because of the close cut)?

If so cut a little insulation off of the wire and touch one lead to a wire and another lead on a "segment" of the 1/8" plug. It looks like a standard stereo min-plug and has three "sections" to it. Each section should be connected to one wire.

I'm wondering if they are using some kind of feedback from the valve to its intended controller (thus the third wire).

Also, it would be interesting in taking some resistive readings on the valve itself (between all possible wire combinations).

 

[eufreka]

The bare copper is probably earth ground.
The Red is probably positive.
The Green is probably negative.
What voltage power supply are you using? I'd try something in the 3-6V range. They do look like real thin wires.
On wall warts, usually the inside diameter is positive, while the outer is negative, or ground.

Although I don't know what I am talking about...isn't that a stereo plug...so it's tip/ring/common

]=|=|>

Maybe it actually sends separate open and close signals?

 

[eufreka]

Do you have an ohm-meter? Can you get to the wires on the back of the plug (it looks like you might not be able to because of the close cut)?

If so cut a little insulation off of the wire and touch one lead to a wire and another lead on a "segment" of the 1/8" plug. It looks like a standard stereo min-plug and has three "sections" to it. Each section should be connected to one wire.

I'm wondering if they are using some kind of feedback from the valve to its intended controller (thus the third wire).

Also, it would be interesting in taking some resistive readings on the valve itself (between all possible wire combinations).

I think we are thinking similarly...

Actually perhaps the best test would be to look to the signal(s) coming FROM the timer. That would tell us what the valve is looking for.

Use any stereo mini plug with three wires...and trigger the timer to send an "on" and an "off" and see which wires transmit?

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Do you have an ohm-meter? Can you get to the wires on the back of the plug (it looks like you might not be able to because of the close cut)?

If so cut a little insulation off of the wire and touch one lead to a wire and another lead on a "segment" of the 1/8" plug. It looks like a standard stereo min-plug and has three "sections" to it. Each section should be connected to one wire.

I'm wondering if they are using some kind of feedback from the valve to its intended controller (thus the third wire).

Also, it would be interesting in taking some resistive readings on the valve itself (between all possible wire combinations).

I think we are thinking similarly...

Actually perhaps the best test would be to look to the signal(s) coming FROM the timer. That would tell us what the valve is looking for.

Use any stereo mini plug with three wires...and trigger the timer to send an "on" and an "off" and see which wires transmit?

That's a good idea, problem is, we don't have the timer, just the valve.

 

[RichTJ99]

The Home Depot by me has the timer set (2 valves, 1 timer, 1 water splitter). I can go get it & test it (the return it) if someone can explain to me what & how to use the Ohm meter?

 

[huggy59]

Guys, the unit you're talking about is not a 24VAC unit - they are DC toggling valves. It is the one I mentioned earlier in this or another thread. I have these units working here. They use a 3 conductor cable and a pulse system to turn them on or off. That is, they toggle and stay in that mode (on or off) without power applied until toggled back. One wire is common, the other two are the on or off toggles. The system works with 3 AA batteries (hence 4.5VDC). However, I suspect they use a capacitor and charge pump to store a charge to give it enough "oomph" to pulse toggle the valves as they do not toggle with a standard 4.5VDC applied. The timer increments in 1-minute intervals, so that would allow time to recharge the charge pump for the next toggle.

I have two and both are in use so I have not had a chance to take one apart. The timers I have work with up to 4 valves each, and they turn one on at a time, sequentially if programmed to run more than one. That saves battery power and keeps water pressure at a max for each zone.

They are working well here. The valves are $15 at Lowes and possibly Home Depot.