Pre-wire for a Unattached Garage


I could use some help on pre-wiring an unattached garage to an Elk panel.  There is underground conduit from the house (approx 70').    Here is what I'm planning:

1 - Overhead Door Contact - run 22-2.  I'll probably use the armored cable contact that attaches to the overhead door rail.

2 - Side Door Contact - run 22-2.

3 - Control Garage Door- run 18-2.

4 - Motion Sensor (for incoming cars/people) - run 18-4.

5 - Camera (for driveway) - run Cat 6 and 18-4. 

Do I have the wire correct?  

Regarding the motion detector ... do they make decent camera and motion combination units?  I'm looking to spend a maximum of $500 for both devices.

Thanks for the help!
The type of runs look correct.
I used 22 ga for everything except the 18/2 firewire for smokes and heat detectors.
I placed heat detectors in my outbuildings in addition to the items you listed.

I think you may be underestimating your camera budget depending on what you want out of it.
Do you want face/license plate recognition?
Is it going to be mounted inside or outside?
18 ga may be overkill for the motion, 22 ga is more typical, but 18 will work great. Everything will work fine. But it is a good idea to pull more lines than you think you will need - you will find more needs in the future - especially do extra runs of Cat 6.

I oversized the conduit to my garage, ran two times more of each type wire than I thought I needed and left a pull string. I have since used every wire, pulled more, used that, and wish I had more. If you are a tinkerer, you WILL find a lot more uses in the future.
I had a detached workshop built a few months ago (thread about similar questions here). I've yet to pull the actual wiring, but I do have conduit in place. Something for you to consider...
I'll be running databus cable from my M1G panel, to a DBH (not required, but preference) located in the workshop... Where I will also place a M1XIN which will keep all sensor wiring local to the workshop, rather than having to pull sensor cabling back to the main panel. I'll likely also run a M1XOVR out there as well, as well as a P212S for battery backup. This setup should allow everything to run off a single databus cable between the main M1G panel and the detached workshop. I will be pulling additional Ethernet (for AP), cable, and CCTV cables.
This way, everything that I should need should end up being local to the shop and if I decide to change/modify anything, it will be much easier to do with the local panel(s).
do they make decent camera and motion combination units?
Yes; but guessing here it would be over $500.   You can go with a separate outdoor sensor next to or just covering same footprint as the camera.  It will not look as nice but can make your price point easily enough. I wouldn't depend on any camera analytics for motion; but you can use them with an outdoor motion sensor to be a bit more granular.  I am on the fence regarding IR night illumination.  I mean it works with some cameras better than others.   Doing POE makes the installation plug n play. 
If you want are including illumination with coach lights; did notice some LED coach lights with built in IP HD cameras; which are interesting solution; a quick glance and they appear to be just plan old coach lights.
drvnbysound has the right idea... running 2 Cat5's would work well - and a 14" Elk Can in the garage with a databus run works great for a XIN and XOVR so you get inputs and outputs; the P212 takes care of local power and backup...   I've done the garage sub-panel in my current and previous house and it works well.  I also used the M1XOVR and M1RB for controlling the garage doors, a local piezo sounder, and the sprinklers... I've also thought about tying it in for some halloween props around that time of year...  and with the databus there, it's easy to toss in a keypad or anything else you need.
If you're sure you only need one device out there, then a single Cat5 would work - otherwise you can also run a POE switch in the garage then use that to power a camera, AP, etc.  Regardless - you have conduit so you can do anything.
Pete - got a link for any of those camera/light combos you're talking about?
pete_c said:
They look a bit like my current coach lights except that they are rounded and mine are not and they are not POE but I guess its using the same power supply maybe for the camera and the light?  Not really sure.
They are inexpensive for HD IP cameras at less than $200.{47}3"-CMOS-700TVL-Courtyard-Lamp-Type-Outdoor-Camera-IR-50m-Waterproof.html
That's an analog camera not IP.

The IP versions are just over $230
Thank you for the help.  For now I think I will skip the XIN and XOVR expense but pull enough wire in case I want to add them later.  Here's my current plan:

     22/4 - Split between the two contacts (Overhead Door and Side Door)
     22/4 - Motion Detector
     Cat5 - To Keypad (planning to use the KPAS)
     18/2 - To Garage Door Opener (using Output 3 On Main Board)
     Cat5 & 18/4 - Camera
     Cat5 - Spare

I will run the wiring through an enclosure in the garage to allow for changes.  

Thanks again for all the help!!
FWIW you can actually share conductors and squeeze in way more sensors than you think... for example, all negatives can be shared so 1 - and 1 + plus 2 more conductors means 2 sensors; if you have 8 conductors, you can get away with 6 sensors - a negative, a positive (for motions and other powered sensors) plus a sensor contact for each.
Desert_AIP, Updated my post above.  Found a 2.1 MP for $260.  They have also post type coach lights / cameras.
I have purchased a few IP HD cameras.  Mostly though for my DIY using the Speco Domes which are still outside and doing well these days. 
I have settled on mostly the Grandstream IP HD cameras.  I have also added the Grandstream IP Decoder/Encoder board to my mix for use with the HAI OPII Omnitouch  Video Hub.  I am at 5 IP HD Grandstream + 1 Decoder/Encoder right now.  (Still testing 2 Ubiquti Aircams).  Latest was replacing the garage Foscam with a Grandstream DIY with a Speco Dome camera.  These have been working well now streaming to the ZM box (new one now just for IP; old one with analog and IP is still running) plus using GSurf pro Grandstream DVR.
Mostly curious how they hold up over the winter weather snow and cold.  I am abusing them in direct sunlight and weather.
Favorite is a 1080 HD IP, 28mm lens, POE, with or without LED illumination.  SIP is on all of the Grandstream IP camera boards; connected or not connected to microphones.
Here I am using two switches for zone status on the two garage doors.  Its overdoing it a bit but one is for the garage door in the down position and the other is for the garage door in the up position.  I have left the original garage door motor wiring in place (with the light sensors et al).
The garage itself is also a Russound Zone and subzone for audio.  I did also add one RG6 for MM video.  I rebroadcast stuff internally on RG6.  That said though you could also add an XBMC box and stream TV stuff to it.  (added network, Russound controller Cat5e, audio speaker wire).
I have 14 hard wired zones used on my M1, so I was going to use a XIN to add the additional contacts/sensors anyway. However, I don't foresee adding any more hardwired zones to my main partition, so it was an easier decision for me to add the XIN to the detached garage. Additionally, I wanted the ability to trigger a siren/speaker separately for the garage, hence the XOVR; as I'm already using my built-in output for garage door control. A DBH to tie those and the keypad together (preference)... and that leaves me with (1) category wire pull needed between structures.
Thanks Pete - interesting concept; been looking for a solution near my front door but my lights are up too high for a camera on the side to help much.  This may turn out to be the place where I toss a cheapo foscam or something in the window...
Work2Play said:
FWIW you can actually share conductors and squeeze in way more sensors than you think... for example, all negatives can be shared so 1 - and 1 + plus 2 more conductors means 2 sensors; if you have 8 conductors, you can get away with 6 sensors - a negative, a positive (for motions and other powered sensors) plus a sensor contact for each.
Great idea.  Thank you!!