Replacing smoke detectors

Chamber is not the reason why detectors would need replacement. Drift compensation and sensitivity would be the reason.
 
Detectors require replacement.at the 10 year mark.
 
Thanks.  What's a good replacement for these? 
 
I'd rather not have batteries as 4 of these are in 20 foot plus ceilings.  They are connected to an ELK m1 gold with 3 separate zones - upstairs, main floor, lower floor.
 
Thanks
 
Same model is a good choice, UTC Interlogix 541C
Smoke detectors connected to a panel never use batteries.  They are powered by the panel, and should a relay at the end supervising that power is available.
 
Personally, I'd steer away from Interlogix for many reasons....mainly due to recalls on their hardware and GE/UTC essentially leaving the business. I'd go more towards System Sensor or a few others, but SS is the most common.
 
The model that is right for you depends on what you want. 
 
If you want just basic smoke detection, the i3 series 4WT-B would be the closest match to the 541C that you have now. 
 
Other i3 models have built-in sounders and heat detectors.  If you pick a model with a sounder, you need to make sure the alarm panel  can handle the extra current draw.
 
The i4 series does CO detection as well as smoke detection.  But you'll need to add a zone on your alarm panel to break out the CO condition to a separate zone using a COSMOD4W module. 
 
Actually, I'd preface the question by asking what is the host panel these are being attached to?
 
I'd suggest that at this point in time, it may be more beneficial to install a MOD2W and use 2 wire detectors or use the COSMOMOD2W and do the same. Would wire to the panel the same as the host 4 wire detector loop but simplify the field connections and hardware (power supervision relay, etc.)
 
Thanks. 
 
They connect to 3 separate zones on an M1 gold for the panel.  I'll have to look at the current draw to see if I can support the additional power. 
 
There are 5 detectors on 2 zones, and 6 on another.   So if the detectors are 35 mAmp during  alarm, will all the ones on the zone go off, so the total draw would be 6 times 35 mAmp for 210 mAmp.
 
AnotherOne said:
Thanks. 
 
They connect to 3 separate zones on an M1 gold for the panel.  I'll have to look at the current draw to see if I can support the additional power. 
 
There are 5 detectors on 2 zones, and 6 on another.   So if the detectors are 35 mAmp during  alarm, will all the ones on the zone go off, so the total draw would be 6 times 35 mAmp for 210 mAmp.
 
Yes, you need to add up the currents for all the detectors in alarm mode.
 
A reversing relay is necessary to cause the sounders in all the smoke detectors to sound together when one detector trips.  Tandem ring is usually required by code.
 
With multiple zones, you will need a reversing relay for each zone.  But the detectors will not sound across zones without an additional relay and Elk rules to trigger the reversing relays on the other zones to get all of them to sound. 
 
Even more of a reason IMO to move to a single 2 wire loop.

Simplified wiring, less components overall, tandem ring, technically similar overall current draw in alarm, and standby is fine.
 
*too lazy to pull the spec sheet right now, but typically looking at micro amps vs mA draw.
 
When it comes to hard-wired smoke alarms it is better to replace it after every 10 years. Great that it worked for around 15 years. Most of the detector makes a chirp sound and this is the time it's signaling is low.
 
Shelly1Palmer said:
When it comes to hard-wired smoke alarms it is better to replace it after every 10 years. Great that it worked for around 15 years. Most of the detector makes a chirp sound and this is the time it's signaling is low.
Um. No. Hardwired alarm detectors do not do that.
 
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