Ring Pro Doorbell and Elk 960/930

Hi Deckard,
The elk 930 is just a current detector. The way I have it is best visualized with this diagram:
I hope you can see it via this link. The idea is as follows: the pro power kit allows some current to leak without buzzing the bell so the pro doorbell has enough power to work all the time. Normally, when connected in-circuit, this operating current leads to false alarms on the ELK 930 esp at night with the IR at full blast.
What I am doing here is to put the Elk 930 in the position of the red oval. And instead of the power kit grey wire going to Front we bypass the elk 930 (fuzzy pinkish line shows where it goes, crossed out where it should not be going. This means the elk only gets triggered by  current actually going through the chime, not current handled via the power kit.
you could also put the elk930 between transformer and trans, and reroute the other pro power kit wire to bypass the elk930. Either way, the idea is that the elk930 is in some wire carrying only chime current ,not diverted current via the power kit.

This is how I have it and it is working 100% reliably for more than 6 months.
Good luck. No extra components needed.
Ring Doorbell migration to HikVision OEM Doorbell 960/930 issues.

The 960/930 combo sit next to the transformer and all of the doorbell wires.
Transfomer is 10VAC and new testing 16VAC and 24VAC transformers.
Diagram of current wiring (minus the Ring Doorbell).  Never utilized power pack or resistor. (tried the power pack and it would keep the 930/960 trigger on and never shut off).
With the Ring Doorbell I would only get a zone trigger when pressing the doorbell button.
Yesterday installed the HikVision OEM doorbell and switched to a 24VAC transformer.
For a few minutes all was fine then I started to get zone triggers randomly and repetitively the rest of the day.

I installed the 10VAC transformer and had the same issues.  I then installed a new 16VAC transformer and continue to have the same issues.
So relating to the above drawing in this post and using the suggestion in the previous post I could:
1 - join the two wires where the 930 input is restoring original connection and then
2 - connect the 930 input wires between the door bell and chime wires instead?
Just noticed that I triggered the 930/960 by viewing the RTSP video via VLC. Enabled and disabled the VLC video a few times and each time triggered the 930/960 sensor.
Reconnected the 930 to the button end for current sensing.  It is still doing the same thing when I utilize VLC to see the RTSP stream.  (IE: triggers the zone).

Decided to run a new wire (22/2) from the doorbell chime to the area of the 960/930 board and go analog for time bean. The run is very short from the chime to the transformer and via conduit.

Analog ==> bypass the 960/930 boards and connect a reed switch next to the powered coils of the chime to trigger the zone. Might still utilize the elk 960 debounce board for this manner of wiring.

Used 22/4 wire (to have an extra wire).

The conduit is a bit tight now with 2 22/4 wire (plus one), Cat6 wire (for WAP) and solid 3 wire 18 guage for the doorbell chime. I used 14 guage electrical wire for fishing the 22/4 cable and soaped up the end and was able to pull it through with no issues.

After connecting the reed switch will test it with a magnet. Might not need the debounce board anyhow. I do have an EOL in place so will reuse that.