In my 2-story house, I have a mech doorbell on upper floor, wired to a push switch at the front door. This circuit is powered by a typical 16V, 10 VA transformer (NuTone) in the garage. I also have a DIY 2GIG GC3 security panel on lower floor which monitors all 1st-floor points of entry and a wireless remote panel (2GIG’s SP1 Panel) on the upper floor at the top of the stairwell. Downstairs, the 2GIG GC3 is primarily a wireless panel but has two hardwire loop zones (Zone 1 & 2 Loops) as well. Today there is no connection between my doorbell circuit and the GC3 panel.
My problem is that I cannot hear the doorbell on the lower floor and am investigating solutions. One solution I really like is to potentially use the speaker within the GC3 panel to “chime” on the lower floor whenever the doorbell switch is pushed I know this forum loves ELK products, so I’d like to bounce my idea, inspired by Cocoonut’s “doorbell.jpg” solution for te ELK 930/960 combo
I would be using the ELK 930 relay/960 timer combo as a panel hardwire sensor (contact sensor) that would “chime” from the GC3 panel whenever the doorbell switch is pushed. First, I would replicate the doorbell circuit from the diagram to incorporate the 930/960 combo (without a second doorbell switch). Next, From the GC3’s hardwire loop Zone 1 contacts (Zone 1 & COM), I’d run a circuit to the ELK 960’s “N/C” & “COM” terminal to complete the circuit. Within the panel, I would program the sensor to be “no response” for this hardwired “contact” sensor so an alert (the “ding-dong” chime) would be contained locally as an alert but not as a screaming alarm. My theory is that the panel would announce a “ding-dong” on the lower floor whenever the front doorbell switch is pushed, without affecting the upper floor mech doorbell which would create it’s normal “ding-dong” sound.
Q1 – what are your thoughts on this proposed solution?
Q2 – Since I am not using an ELK security panel, do I still need that 1N4004 Diode as part of the ELK 960’s power circuit?
Q3 - To power the ELK 960, I am going to use a 12VDC-1 amp “plug-in” wall wart; is that OK?
Many thanks in advance.
My problem is that I cannot hear the doorbell on the lower floor and am investigating solutions. One solution I really like is to potentially use the speaker within the GC3 panel to “chime” on the lower floor whenever the doorbell switch is pushed I know this forum loves ELK products, so I’d like to bounce my idea, inspired by Cocoonut’s “doorbell.jpg” solution for te ELK 930/960 combo
I would be using the ELK 930 relay/960 timer combo as a panel hardwire sensor (contact sensor) that would “chime” from the GC3 panel whenever the doorbell switch is pushed. First, I would replicate the doorbell circuit from the diagram to incorporate the 930/960 combo (without a second doorbell switch). Next, From the GC3’s hardwire loop Zone 1 contacts (Zone 1 & COM), I’d run a circuit to the ELK 960’s “N/C” & “COM” terminal to complete the circuit. Within the panel, I would program the sensor to be “no response” for this hardwired “contact” sensor so an alert (the “ding-dong” chime) would be contained locally as an alert but not as a screaming alarm. My theory is that the panel would announce a “ding-dong” on the lower floor whenever the front doorbell switch is pushed, without affecting the upper floor mech doorbell which would create it’s normal “ding-dong” sound.
Q1 – what are your thoughts on this proposed solution?
Q2 – Since I am not using an ELK security panel, do I still need that 1N4004 Diode as part of the ELK 960’s power circuit?
Q3 - To power the ELK 960, I am going to use a 12VDC-1 amp “plug-in” wall wart; is that OK?
Many thanks in advance.