2GIG Panel & ELK 930/930 Combo?

[AeroMan]

In my 2-story house, I have a mech doorbell on upper floor, wired to a push switch at the front door. This circuit is powered by a typical 16V, 10 VA transformer (NuTone) in the garage.  I also have a DIY 2GIG GC3 security panel on lower floor which monitors all 1st-floor points of entry and a wireless remote panel (2GIG’s SP1 Panel) on the upper floor at the top of the stairwell. Downstairs, the 2GIG GC3 is primarily a wireless panel but has two hardwire loop zones (Zone 1 & 2 Loops) as well.  Today there is no connection between my doorbell circuit and the GC3 panel.
 
My problem is that I cannot hear the doorbell on the lower floor and am investigating solutions.  One solution I really like is to potentially use the speaker within the GC3 panel to “chime” on the lower floor whenever the doorbell switch is pushed  I know this forum loves ELK products, so I’d like to bounce my idea, inspired by Cocoonut’s “doorbell.jpg” solution for te ELK 930/960 combo
 
I would be using the ELK 930 relay/960 timer combo as a panel hardwire sensor (contact sensor) that would “chime” from the GC3 panel whenever the doorbell switch is pushed.  First, I would replicate the doorbell circuit from the diagram to incorporate the 930/960 combo (without a second doorbell switch).  Next, From the GC3’s hardwire loop Zone 1 contacts (Zone 1 & COM), I’d run a circuit to the ELK 960’s “N/C” & “COM” terminal to complete the circuit.  Within the panel, I would program the sensor to be “no response” for this hardwired “contact” sensor so an alert (the “ding-dong” chime) would be contained locally as an alert but not as a screaming alarm.  My theory is that the panel would announce a “ding-dong” on the lower floor whenever the front doorbell switch is pushed, without affecting the upper floor mech doorbell which would create it’s normal “ding-dong” sound.
 
Q1 – what are your thoughts on this proposed solution?
Q2 – Since I am not using an ELK security panel, do I still need that 1N4004 Diode as part of the ELK 960’s power circuit?
Q3 - To power the ELK 960, I am going to use a 12VDC-1 amp “plug-in” wall wart; is that OK?
 
Many thanks in advance.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

IF you have the capability of providing wiring (one pair) from the doorbell's chime to the security panel, you can really simplify this by just using a door/window sensor, without the magnet, place that near the 'coil' of the chime, then run the wiring to an input on your security system.

 

[TurboSam]

:hesaid:

 

[tmbrown97]

Might be able to do that anyway with a wireless sensor - preferably one that accepts external contacts.  I believe 2gig is compatible with GE sensors?

 

[SterlingDonnelly]

Have you considered replacing your mechanical doorbell with a wireless 2Gig doorbell (https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/2gig-dbell1-345) instead?

 

[AeroMan]

Thx to all who have offered suggestions.
A1 - Yes, I do have capability to run a wire pair between the surviving mech doorbell and GC3 panel.
A2 - yes, 2GIG is compatible with Honeywell; lots of wireless options there
A3 - Thanks fo the 2GIG doorbell reference, but following is the bigger picture of what I am trying to achieve:
 
This post originated because I initially wanted to replace my front doorbell pushbutton with an Alarm.com SkyBell HD doorbell camera.  The doorbell circuit included two mechanical doorbells, one on each floor, that were powered by a 16V, 30 VAC transformer.  I originally swapped out the doorbell switch with a brand new SkyBell HD and regrettably killed (fried) the doorbell circuit in the new doorbell camera - ouch.  I later learned that the SkyBell HD is designed for a 16V, 10 VA doorbell circuit, which in my case, means a downgrade to one mech doorbell in the house.  But, that leaves me without a doorbell on one of my floors, which doesn’t meet the WAF.  So I bought a replacement alarm.com SkyBell HD and searched for ways to install it by modifying the house’s doorbell circuitry, now that I was aware of the SkyBell HD’s power restrictions.  I need a two doorbell chime solution (one per floor) that expands on the basic doorbell circuit described by Alarm.com's SkyBell.
 
I had originally test-benched the HomeSeer forum solution of placing a wired contact (w/reed switch) against a mech doorbell coiled striker, where the EMI from the energized striker coil would cause the seansor’s reed switch to “open” when the doorbell was depressed.  I couldn’t get it to work for me.
 
I found this forum and discovered the ELK 930/960 combo solution.  After the ELK relay/timer is installed, I can then program the 2GIG panel to recognize the ELK relay as a “no response” hard-wired sensor (Loop 1) where the panel would simply “chime” a simulated ding-dong sound  (not a screeching alarm) when the relay is activated by the front door doorbell switch.  With a 2GIG GC3 panel on one floor and a SP1 remote panel on the other floor, this theoretically solves my problem. Once I have a chime on each floor, I could then swap the front door pushbutton with the new replacement SkyBell HD.
 
So, when this project is complete, I will have a doorbell chime sound on each floor (from the 2GIG Panels), one working mech doorbell AND a working Alarm.com SkyBell HD doorbell camera.  I have no allegiance to mech doorbells except that I don’t have AC power near the existing doorbell locations so I’ve ruled out digital doorbells.
 
Thoughts?

 

[AeroMan]

I"m stumped, but this post is getting to long.  I'll try again    -Aero