Secure vs Not Ready Statuses and Loops and Doors

H

HomeTechNewbie

Member
Hi guys,

As my username suggests, i am a bit of a newbie when it comes to this stuff, but very excited to get installing all the gadgetry in the new house. However, after connecting a bunch of stuff, i have run into a few problems and would love some answers from the experts (all of you!)

1). I have a OmniPro2 system. I have connected a door contact to the system, but it has the opposite result. Door open = status shows Secure, door closed = Not Ready. I have a loop status of 128 so feel comfortable that its reading it. Just opposite. I have a zone resister connecting positive and negative at the omnipro 2 system (i know thats not technically right, but was told it works that way)

2) The second problem is i have some windows daisy chained together that cant get any status change when i open the window. If i connect a resistor at the omnipro it says Secure if i dont connect one it says Not Ready, but in either case open the window and nothing happens. No update on the status/control of PC Access....

Help!
 
1. RTFM, not what "someone" told you!
 
2. You have an open circuit.  It's likely at one of the window contacts.  Perhaps an alignment problem between the window and the casing.
 
 
(HINT:  Page 4 plus top left corner of page 5.)
 
Do you have EOL enabled?
If yes you need EOLs on EVERY zone. In series for NC zones and in parallel for NO zones.

I assume you already know what series, parallel, NO and NC mean. If not that is the first place to start.

You have the door EOL connected in parallel which is wrong for a NC zone.
The controller will never see the zone open because there is no change in impedance of the loop.
If you use an EOL at the panel, one leg of the EOL connects to the panel and the other leg connects to a zone wire, the other zone wire connects to the other side of the zone at the panel. This creates a continuous loop.


The loop reading for a secure zone is SECURE - 137-157. They are usually around 142-144.
You are reading "CLOSED".

As for the windows, do you have them wired in series or parallel?
The should be wired in series with an EOL in series at the farthest point - one continous loop.
You can place the EOL at the panel but you lose fault detection, it's much better to place the EOL at the "end" of the loop.

My guess is you have the windows in parallel, so you would have to open ALL of them to detect a change.

Use a multi-meter to trace the wires and draw out what you want to do.
A little planning makes the install go much smoother.
 
Guys,
 
I think you all are overthinking this. He has the EOLR installed in parallel with the contact(s), not series.
 
Hi guys, thanks for the quick response.   I will try the continuous loop idea shortly. 
 
but to answer the question, the door is a single return (parallel), the windows (going to a different zone) are in a series.  both of them are at the panel, vs, at the window/door.   How do you hide a resister at the window? inside the casing? Im assuming the best way to do these things is to solder the resister to the wire? 
 
thanks again!   Great suggestions. 
 
BTW, i do have EOL Resister turned on. These are the only 2 plugged into the omnipro to trouble shoot they system.... (simplify my problem!) :-)   (Everything else has been set to auxillary) 
 
HomeTechNewbie said:
Hi guys, thanks for the quick response.   I will try the continuous loop idea shortly. 
 
but to answer the question, the door is a single return (parallel), the windows (going to a different zone) are in a series.  both of them are at the panel, vs, at the window/door.   How do you hide a resister at the window? inside the casing? Im assuming the best way to do these things is to solder the resister to the wire? 
 
thanks again!   Great suggestions. 
Click to expand...
 
It's not a continuous loop "idea", it is the required way to wire them to produce correct results.
 
You HAVE to have the door contact and resistor wired in series. 
Even if the resistor is at the panel.
 
A standard magnetic contact is NC, i.e., it makes continuous electrical contact when the door is closed.
When a NC zone opens it looks like an open circuit to the controller.
NC are used for burglary zones because if a wire is cut, it will be interpreted the same as if the zone is opened.
NC is series, NO (like a fire sensor) is wired in parallel.
 
With the resistor in parallel with the contact, both legs wired across the zone, the controller CAN'T see the zone open because electricity is still passing through the resistor between the zone contacts the same as it was before the zone opened.
 
 
For the windows, are ALL of the window contacts wired in series?
i.e. black wire of window 1 to - lug of zone, red wire of window 1 to black wire of window 2, red wire of window 2 to black wire of window 3, red wire if window 3 to one side of EOL and the other side of EOL to + lug of the zone.
I suspect you put all of the black wires on the - lug and all of the red wires on the + lug, which makes the windows wired in parallel.
 
 
 
For EOLs.
Solder short lead wires to the ends of the resistor and cover the whole thing in shrink tubing.
Then crimp/wirenut the lead wires to the contact wiring in series.
An EOL will easily fit inside the 3/8" hole drilled for the contact.
 
Team, 
 
First thanks!   It got me pointed the right direction!   Most of my perimeter / exit entry doorways are secure.    
 
I can only assume that the ones that arenet secure (having followed the same steps for the others) has faulty equipment or wire?   These are all either NC (door contacts, window contacts).   BTW, is there a maximum the contacts can be away from each other.  I have a couple that are maybe an inch apart.  
 
Thanks again!  
 
The gap (magnet to switch distance) should be specified on the contact package, or look it up online.
I think 1" may be too far unless you have large gap sensors. IIRC standard gap sensors are ~1/2".

You can trace wiring continuity with a multimeter. Rule out the easy to fix, faulty connections, before troubleshooting anything at the panel.
 
OK... 
 
We have moved in the right direction!  Thanks for all the help.   I am only left with Occupancy sensors... i have them hooked up to the main board of the HAI OmniPro 2 (no resistors) just like i would hook up a motion detector.   (Red/Black to power/ground, green and yellow to positive and negative)  
 
All the motion detectors work fine, but occupancy detectors still show Status = Not Ready, Loop =  (253/254), Current = Not Ready.   Do I have to put a EOL at the device?   They are standard Leviton motion devices (4 wires coming out).  BTW, they light up fine with occupancy in the room.
 
Thanks for the help!! 
 
With the Omni, if you have EOL enabled, which you should, ALL sensors MUST have EOLs.
You wire them in series for NC sensors and in parallel for NO sensors.
 
BTW, i thought you could have the main board without resistors, but anything on the expansion enclosure/hardwire expander needed resistors?   
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Can I Automate Force Arm?
Replies
3
Views
292
Mark S.
M
J
Elk M1XRF319 wireless zones acting opposite - READY=NOT READY and NOT READY=READY
Replies
11
Views
781
Sandpiper
Sandpiper
S
ELKM1 Rule - Text to Keypad on Zone Change
Replies
8
Views
555
amos
A
M
NX8E - Unable to enter into programming mode through keypad
Replies
2
Views
392
msteelefl
M
J
Help with ideas to cross-communicate between OmniPro II and Elk M1G
Replies
4
Views
207
jcd
J
Back
Top