Serial controllable Power Strips

Pete, are you ok? You sound like you're trapped in some space-time continuum rip and trying to communicate with us... :D
 
To answer Pete's broken messages....

Yes, I have had my incomong cable signal strength tested...it is OK. Not sure about the firmware of the modem, I'll have to check with Time Warner on that one (I have no idea how to access their modem). Maybe I just will swap it out with a new modem ......TW is usually pretty good about things like that.
 
For some unknown reason I cannot type more than two sentences in a message. Is it one of these?

SMC Modem

You might want to read this if it is:

SMC

Unless TW is doing stuff with their network at odd times your connection should be pretty stable.
 
For some unknown reason I cannot type more than two sentences in a message. Is it one of these?

SMC Modem

You might want to read this if it is:

SMC

Unless TW is doing stuff with their network at odd times your connection should be pretty stable.

I am not using the equipment you listed (not sure what it is, I will post back later tonight) - Thank goodness!

...I don't trust ANYONE, and therefore I put my own router behind TW's modem (it is a modem only, no wireless, no routing). I have MY equipment isolate my network from TW. If I were to get a new modem/router combo from TW, I would still put my own router behind it (I would NEVER trust TW not to snoop on my internal network)....

Call me paranoid.....
 
here is the manual I looked at it is a RPC combined manual for all their single phase units

http://www.baytech.net/downloads/manuals/R...binedManual.pdf

from the manual:

Code:
Model number description: RPS28 ADEN -30NC

RPS28 = base unit RPS28 group		   A = High Voltage
D = LCD											E = Environmental Ports front panel
N = Network, Ethernet port				  F = Front panel LCD
L = LED											 S = Sensor = Environmental port
-30 = Unit rated Amperage				 NC = Normally Closed Relays upon initial and default power on.
 
Thanks for the hardware manual link.

I need to scour the Baytech site to see if I can find their rs-232 (non-menu based) protocol so that I can have PowerHome "talk" to this unit. Does anyone have any pointers on doing this?

The manual seems to describe a menu based interface via the serial connection (ie hyperterminal). I am hoping there is a "regular" serial protocal that is more "automation" friendly.
 
I know I've seen it somewhere. I guess I didn't save it off, as I can't find it.

Seems timely to finally get off my butt and use this thing, as I had to go down to the basement this morning to reboot the DSL modem. It's cold down there!

If I can't find the protocol, I'd probably just program it to go through the menu.

Well, that was easy. It's here.
 
I was having a lot of trouble with a DSL modem needing frequent reboots. Finally got around to talking to the ISP, they came out, fixed some (outside the house) wiring issues, and replaced the modem. Took some time to get them to come out and all, but now that it's done, it's been solid for a couple weeks now.

I would definitely look at what you can do to fix the original problem before getting too far into an elaborate workaround.
 
Has anyone considered whether relay switching of a modem/router/electronic device can cause damage? The Baytech switch looks like a nice device, but I question whether it's wise to use this with "consumer grade" electronics.

Most of my information is rather date (80's and 90's), but we were required to provide a fair amount of Hardware protection to devices using EEproms (Aerospace applications). At that time, simple software write protection was considered insufficient to prevent a EEprom from being scrambled during power-up/power-down sequences. I've browsed over some of the currently available devices and it appears that they've improved over the years, but I'm not sure that means they can't be upset during power-cycling.

I would also be concerned about how multiple powered devices discharge when power is interrupted (by a relay or a switch). You'll have stored charge in these devices that is searching for the least resistance to ground. If that path happens to be through a nearby component, you could easily overload the neighbor.

I would never consider connecting a TV, PC, or other "complex" electronic unit to a switched outlet for exactly this reason. All of my devices are powered by un-switched outlets. I typically run around powering device down when a storm is approaching to prevent power cycling of these units.

Case in point - '95 vintage Toshiba 55" projection unit.
I forgot my rule of un-switched power when I moved into my new home in '2000. Plugged the projection TV into a switched output in the basement. My 5 year old decided to life test the wall switch with the Toshiba connected (entirely my fault for connecting the set this way). Symptoms - TV would power up for roughly 30 seconds but then loose video (audio only). After ~1 week of playing I realized that the setup parameters in the EEprom had been scrambled. These parameters controlled the "drive" to the crt's. The crt's were being over-driven and the set X-Ray protection was kicking in to protect nearby viewers (me).

I would love to learn that I'm just a paranoid old man, but I suspect that susceptibility to power cycling varies by manufacturer. Please educate me if I'm off base here.

IM
 
Has anyone considered whether relay switching of a modem/router/electronic device can cause damage? The Baytech switch looks like a nice device, but I question whether it's wise to use this with "consumer grade" electronics.

Most of my information is rather date (80's and 90's), but we were required to provide a fair amount of Hardware protection to devices using EEproms (Aerospace applications). At that time, simple software write protection was considered insufficient to prevent a EEprom from being scrambled during power-up/power-down sequences. I've browsed over some of the currently available devices and it appears that they've improved over the years, but I'm not sure that means they can't be upset during power-cycling.

I would also be concerned about how multiple powered devices discharge when power is interrupted (by a relay or a switch). You'll have stored charge in these devices that is searching for the least resistance to ground. If that path happens to be through a nearby component, you could easily overload the neighbor.

I would never consider connecting a TV, PC, or other "complex" electronic unit to a switched outlet for exactly this reason. All of my devices are powered by un-switched outlets. I typically run around powering device down when a storm is approaching to prevent power cycling of these units.

Case in point - '95 vintage Toshiba 55" projection unit.
I forgot my rule of un-switched power when I moved into my new home in '2000. Plugged the projection TV into a switched output in the basement. My 5 year old decided to life test the wall switch with the Toshiba connected (entirely my fault for connecting the set this way). Symptoms - TV would power up for roughly 30 seconds but then loose video (audio only). After ~1 week of playing I realized that the setup parameters in the EEprom had been scrambled. These parameters controlled the "drive" to the crt's. The crt's were being over-driven and the set X-Ray protection was kicking in to protect nearby viewers (me).

I would love to learn that I'm just a paranoid old man, but I suspect that susceptibility to power cycling varies by manufacturer. Please educate me if I'm off base here.

IM
 
Generally it's a good idea to turn the device off for 10-30 seconds when you power cycle it. I don't know if the on-off switch on these devices is equivalent to just turning on and off the power, but probably there is an AC adapter which may not instantly lose power, and then it may take a little time for the device itself to "forget". A 10-30 second delay should be easy to program, though.
 
I would definitely look at what you can do to fix the original problem before getting too far into an elaborate workaround.

I'm sorry, I don't think I understood you. Don't you mean "before getting too far into an elegant HA solution"??

I think on some level, whether we admit it to ourselves or not, our HA efforts really take on a Rube Goldberg aspect. :D

Beside all that, though....I wouldn't classify the DSL modem as a CONSTANT or even frequent problem. I'd just say that when our internet has gone out...it seems like a DSL reboot brings it back. It could just be the ISP was actually down and the DSL modem isn't good at recognizing when they've fixed things and take us back online.

But either way....I've got the controllable power strip, and it's just sitting on the shelf...why not.
 
I would definitely look at what you can do to fix the original problem before getting too far into an elaborate workaround.

I'm sorry, I don't think I understood you. Don't you mean "before getting too far into an elegant HA solution"??

Thanks for correcting my typo! ;) Can't argue that.

My connection was dropping ~6 times a day, so to me I hear this and it sounds like a big deal. If it's a rare thing, priorities may be different (and conversely solving the original problem may be harder).
 
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