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Skylight shade or film options?

wkearney99

Senior Member
It might be fair to say that much like regular non-automated (ie, fabric) window treatments, if you're looking for "light blocking" then these are not the ideal solution.  But much like window shade and drapery options, privacy is more a matter of obfuscating the view, not entirely stopping all light-passage.  
 
Terminology is a bit of a sticking point, and when courts are mentioned we'd all do well to be as accurate as possible.  
 
I'm sure there's plenty of situations where this kind of product could work nicely.  Just not for entirely darkening  for a theater situation or providing entirely opaque coverage for complete privacy.
 
Me, I have no skin in this game, but I've learned it's worth steering threads back away from the edge now and then...  If just to avoid pointless time wasted by the moderators fending of vendor lawyers...
 

ano

Senior Member
If you haven't noticed they have a pretty good sale on smaller pieces. (I didn't notice this before.)  I was going to buy their sample kit for $69 but then you realize its like $37 shipping. Give me a break. These items have free shipping.
 
The sale is a bit tricky to find. Go here and scroll down.
http://shop.smarttint.com/Sample-Test-Kits_c_308.html
 

cobra

Active Member
ano said:
If you haven't noticed they have a pretty good sale on smaller pieces. (I didn't notice this before.)  I was going to buy their sample kit for $69 but then you realize its like $37 shipping. Give me a break. These items have free shipping.
 
The sale is a bit tricky to find. Go here and scroll down.
http://shop.smarttint.com/Sample-Test-Kits_c_308.html
 
I see a bunch of items on sale there, but watch out, some of them are 60VAC film, which probably needs a transformer...  Did you find some 120VAC on sale there?  I looked at the first page some.  I do see they have some 3" x 6" pieces at low prices, but not with free shipping...
 
cobra said:
I see a bunch of items on sale there, but watch out, some of them are 60VAC film, which probably needs a transformer...  Did you find some 120VAC on sale there?  I looked at the first page some.  I do see they have some 3" x 6" pieces at low prices, but not with free shipping...
And that voltage means it's no longer considered a class 2 power limited circuit. Changes the wiring method to be essentially similar to HV methods (typically class 3)
 

ano

Senior Member
cobra said:
I see a bunch of items on sale there, but watch out, some of them are 60VAC film, which probably needs a transformer...  Did you find some 120VAC on sale there?  I looked at the first page some.  I do see they have some 3" x 6" pieces at low prices, but not with free shipping...
Yup, keep looking. That is why I said its a bit tricky. They have every size at 120V up to 20 sq. ft.
 

cobra

Active Member
DELInstallations said:
And that voltage means it's no longer considered a class 2 power limited circuit. Changes the wiring method to be essentially similar to HV methods (typically class 3)
 
Even thought it's under 120VAC?  Funny, as they call it low voltage and recommended for bathroom installs.  But it says it can be up to 85V.
 
ano said:
Yup, keep looking. That is why I said its a bit tricky. They have every size at 120V up to 20 sq. ft.
 
I see some $20 samples, but not sure what their shipping is.
 
So no reports of this by any cocooners?  I have one of those front doors with the little side glass that I think this would be awesome for.  
 
cobra said:
Even thought it's under 120VAC?  Funny, as they call it low voltage and recommended for bathroom installs.  But it says it can be up to 85V.
Voltage is only part of the equation. How the power is fed and what the overcurrent device is come into play.  Basically you're going from a class 2 to a class 3 circuit.
 
http://ecmweb.com/code-basics/classifying-and-using-class-1-2-and-3-circuits  OR
 
https://www.mikeholt.com/mojonewsarchive/NEC-HTML/HTML/Article725CodeBasics~20021217.htm
 

CarolP

Member
wkearney99 said:
I actually use positional control more than I expected.  That and I definitely need more than one preset.  I have night, wake-up, daytime and afternoon settings for most of the shades.  Night being obvious full closure, but wakeup is partial top-down to allow for privacy.  Daytime is full open, afternoon is typically to mitigate harsh sun.  This gets fine tuned through the year.  At some point I hope to capture and be able to 'reset' them. 
 
But for skylights I'd imagine either open or closed would be sufficient.  Not unless there's a particularly bad sun angle that causes reflection problems for the TV viewing. 
[SIZE=13.3333px]Hide those narrow openings with attractive curtains and drapes. I prefer side to side shades than top down. The one I have is the side to side. Now regarding the condensation, install vents just below your window to help keep the interior glass warm. Running ceiling fans will help warm air rise to the ceiling  and thus prevent condensation on the roof windows and skylight. Check this blog on how to reduce condensation of windows [/SIZE][SIZE=13.3333px]http://www.landmarkquality.com/blog/windows/how-to-control-condensation-and-moisture-on-your-windows[/SIZE][SIZE=13.3333px]. It says simple measures like  improved air circulation, window treatments and heat registers in front of windows will help alleviate window condensation.[/SIZE]
 
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