Looks like you're correct in your evaluation, Dan. Here's what it comes down to:
1. I think most of the people, including me, that went for the 1.25" reduced-bore didn't need the 1.25" but wanted a 1" ball. Since this isn't the case with the original valves, that doesn't work. The 1" and 1.25" reduced-bore valves both have .75" balls. Plus, the 1.25" is brass and isn't food-grade.
2. The new series of valves, the KLD100, have full-bore 1" and 1.25" balls and are not food grade. Plus, they are way more expensive than the KLD20, but still much less than Elk or KZValve.
Given the importance of this item, it makes sense for me to spend the money on the right valve. I can get the Elk-WSV for just over $300, and would order in a snap, except that it's not designed for outdoors and that's where I need to install. The KZValve valves are rated for outdoors and are waterproof (NEMA 6P) and include a manual shutoff. I can get the KZValve for under $300. Unlike the WaterCop and Elk valves, the KZValve needs power applied to keep the valve closed. For me, that's not a big deal as I would have it on a UPS and I have an automatic whole-home generator.
I appreciate all the work you've done, Dan, and am sorry I threw a wrench in all this. For those that can use .75" bore, the KLD20 valves are a great deal. I just wish I could use it.
Thanks,
Kevin