what glass break to use with M1G

[newalarm]

I am ordering my glass breaks and was wondering what glass breaks to order for M1g.

I was looking at the sentrol 5812NT series. Would it be the Form A or Form C?

If anyone has other devices they prefer, please chime in.

Thank you.

 

[DotNetDog]

I use the 5812NT at my house. I'm not sure what Form A is versus Form C...but I think it's just the tamper switch. Mine do not have the tamper switch since I figured tampering of interior sensors is less of an issue...the alarm would have already been triggered. Well, that and my dogs!

Here is what I bought:
http://www.automatedoutlet.com/Home/Glass-Break-Sensors/5812-RND

I have both the rectangular ones and the round ones. Round on the ceiling and rectangular on walls.

 

[Sandpiper]

Form A is standard relay terminology for a single set of contacts that are normally closed (or could be normally open). Form C is a single set that has NC and NO contacts. Both Form A and Form C will work for alarm purposes. If you want to do additional functions (such as lights or horns) then you might want the Form C.

 

[newalarm]

thank you both.

 

[ddennerline]

I have two of Honeywell FG1625RFM (http://www.security.honeywell.com/hsc/products/sensor/gl/31133.html) installed. They are quite inconspicuous. In addition, I ordered (and used) FG701 to install detectors. The FG701 allowed me to play around with install locations. You just need to wire up the FG1625 to the Elk, create a “ElkRP test rule,” and have a second person with FG701 walk around to every window in protection zone. You can do the install without FG701 too.

 

[chrisexv6]

On the advice of an installer or two I used the Visonic Glass Tech detectors. They arent as inconspicuous as the recessed mount Honeywells, but I was going more for the best detection/least falses and the GlassTechs seem to do well in both areas.

I did get the tester as well. Something about just putting a sensor up and "assuming" it will catch what you want didnt make sense to me. I actually hooked each detector up to a 12V power supply and tested them in each location I thought would work, before installing them permanently and connecting them to the Elk. That way I *know* they will work before I even drill any holes.