Why is 'Elk On-Line Training ' Pinned at the top? Help with a new build and type of wiring needed?

[tmbrown97]

With Elk, you'll never be stuck. There are plenty of true Elk experts here and even Elk themselves monitor the boards. If there's a hardware issue, they'll take care of you too.

The Expander thing should make more sense when you start using it... There are a couple categories of devices - keypads, input expanders, etc... And when installing them, you address them as #1, #2, etc... This just is telling you where to put that expander. It's good that you know you want it now so you can leave that slot open for it.

You can use the KPNav exclusively - it counts as a regular keypad. That said my advice about the KP2s is because they have a great spot for an SP12 speaker behind them. I don't like the generic echo speakers because it feels unnatural to be using a keypad by the door just to have "System Armed" come from a central speaker elsewhere in the house. Those speakers are where all the system sounds other than basic keypad beeps come from. Also, when it comes to keypads, for me I like to be able to see the status of the alarm from my bed and be able to arm as I'm heading to bed. Sure, I can do that via a button on my bedside lamp control or from my phone, but combined with the SP12 it gives me sounds right in my room as well as one function you hope to never need: if your alarm gets triggered in the middle of the night, as you grab your gun and head for the door, you can look at that keypad and see which direction to aim (which zone was violated)!

 

[apostolakisl]

Don't use any wireless stuff and don't use Insteon leak detectors.  Wireless is for after the fact installs.  You can run a wire I suppose to your ideal wireless radio location, but I would plan on not needing it.  Doing a good job of planning out your wire pulls is a better idea.
 
And yes, 18/4 is 4 stranded 18 gauge wire.
 
Your walls are open, hardwire everything.  GRI water detectors I posted earlier only cost $10/each and are every bit as good as an Insteon one, probably better since they are hard wired in and there is no risk of insteon failure.  When you consider that you might have 20 water locations in your house, it is nice to spend $10 ea instead of $35.
 
I highly recommend putting your ISY on a UPS.  However, that is only to keep your programs running properly, all of the actual Insteon stuff will not work of course.  Assuming you also keep your Elk xep and your home router on a UPS, then your ISY can still keep working with your Elk during a power failure.
 
The Elk DBH is a very good choice for keeping things tidy and easy.
 
I think you should put a keypad in your master bedroom.

 

[BLH]

No the I/OLinc will not supply power. You would still need an external power source.
The 12 volts at 1 amp can safely be controled by its relay output.

 

[Pcarfan]

Thank you so much for all the help....I am starting to get a much better picture of the whole setup.
 
I really have to think of UPS for most of this stuff....for instance, it will be nice if the security cameras will still work if the power goes out etc, as they will be an integral part of this security setup. I am getting a network video recorder and cameras that hook up using power over Ethernet. I assume elk doesn't integrate somehow directly with cameras?

 

[BLH]

Most UPS units have a power line filter in them and will absorb Insteon power line signals.
I have my UPS on a 10 amp Filterlinc and the PLM for the ISY994i on the pass through outlet. As the PLM should not be on an UPS to get its power line signals on to the power lines.

 

[apostolakisl]

Also, don't forget to pull wires to your garage door opener so you can run it off of an Elk relay.
 
And if you have septic, you can run wires to that as well so you can get emailed if the trouble light comes on.
 
And to your washer and dryer so you can get allerted at the end of a cycle.
 
And you might consider an extra set of wires to the garage door if you want to try and rig it so that the system can not only know closed/not closed, but also know if it is in motion.

 

[Pcarfan]

Also, don't forget to pull wires to your garage door opener so you can run it off of an Elk relay.

 
Do you mean like a door sensor for the garage door? or actually opening and closing the garage door with Elk? I don't know how useful the latter would be (Insteon can do it, but I've never left my garage door open by mistake)

And if you have septic, you can run wires to that as well so you can get emailed if the trouble light comes on.

 
Wow! I never even thought of this. I will have a septic system for the first time and this will be extremely useful. Can you please elaborate on this on how exactly I do this?

And to your washer and dryer so you can get allerted at the end of a cycle.

 
This is so cool, my wife would love it. How exactly do I do this?

And you might consider an extra set of wires to the garage door if you want to try and rig it so that the system can not only know closed/not closed, but also know if it is in motion.

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Look at the How-To section you must!

 

[Pcarfan]

Look at the How-To section you must!

 
Wow! that's a treasure chest of things that would help me.....can I narrow them down to Elk only etc?

 

[BraveSirRobbin]

Ask much of us you do!
 
Probably better to copy the links to the items you want and let us tell you exactly how you would interface to your Elk.

 

[Pcarfan]

Ok! some other questions.
 
I understand multiple sensors in a zone can be 'series' connected and be put in one zone. I will probably connect all the window sensors and the glass break sensors together in each zone and keep the door sensor separate. This way, home automation can be linked to door opening alone. Question is, will this series connection be done close to the circuit board or can it be somehow done close to the sensors? This way there will be only one wire that needs to be run through the house.

 

[apostolakisl]

Again, I would not use Insteon to control your garage doors.  It is more reliable to pull wires and use the Elk relays. Remember, ISY can control the Elk relays, so it is still part of the "Insteon network".
 
Controlling the garage doors lets you open the doors over the internet to let someone in.
 
It also allows you to have a single button press from a keyfob that can arm/disarm open/close the doors.  I have mine set to push one button, the system checks the status of all 3 doors and closes the ones that need closing and at the same time arms the alarm, shuts off any lights on in the house, turns off the TV/STereo.

 

[apostolakisl]

Ok! some other questions.
 
I understand multiple sensors in a zone can be 'series' connected and be put in one zone. I will probably connect all the window sensors and the glass break sensors together in each zone and keep the door sensor separate. This way, home automation can be linked to door opening alone. Question is, will this series connection be done close to the circuit board or can it be somehow done close to the sensors? This way there will be only one wire that needs to be run through the house.

 
I wouldn't do that.  You should have glass break on a separate zone from window open/close status.   Mixing and matching different types of sensors is usually not a good idea.  Plus a glass break sensor would need 4 wires and the windows only 2.  Generally a bank of windows would be put together on a single zone.  Doors should always be separate since you probably will want delays on them.  
 
Also, wouldn't you want to know if there was an alarm whether it was a glass break or a window opening?
 
Skimping on pulling wire is likely to just frustrate you in the future when trying to do something about it becomes a big challenge (after the sheetrock).

 

[Pcarfan]

I wouldn't do that.  You should have glass break on a separate zone from window open/close status.   Mixing and matching different types of sensors is usually not a good idea.  Plus a glass break sensor would need 4 wires and the windows only 2.  Generally a bank of windows would be put together on a single zone.  Doors should always be separate since you probably will want delays on them.  
 
Also, wouldn't you want to know if there was an alarm whether it was a glass break or a window opening?
 
Skimping on pulling wire is likely to just frustrate you in the future when trying to do something about it becomes a big challenge (after the sheetrock).

 
Makes sense. Do I need a glass sensor for each window or can it listen in and I would need just one for each room?

 

[apostolakisl]

Makes sense. Do I need a glass sensor for each window or can it listen in and I would need just one for each room?

 
No, just one for each room (A large room might need two).  Just look at the installation instructions for the devices for their range.